Problem with pm932m quickly resolved by Matt

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umahunter

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Well lil over a month ago the collet stop screw on my mill sheared off and my drawbar was stripped no problem called pm they sent me a new drawbar said didn't need collet screw turns out that screw was the only thing allowing me to use the mill without the screw you couldn't tighten the collet just spins so after doing several tests figured taper wasn't ground right needed to be replaced pm doesn't carry this part so had to come from the factory so over a month of emailing back and forth have a mill I can't use and I sold my other mill like 2 days before this all happened so finally today a box shows up from china with random freaking parts not the part to repair my machine :( I need a new spindle and receive 2 handles a quill dro some electrical part couple face plates and an e stop button complete bs :(
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EDITOR'S NOTE:

Matt from PM resolved this guy's problem as quickly as he could, to the satisfaction of the OP.
This is not made abundantly clear from the tone of the OP's post, but it is, in fact, what happens.
On H-M, vendors who provide excellent service are treated fairly by our staff, and our members.
 
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Just curious... how do you know the spindle taper was incorrect and not the R8 collets themselves? Maybe the mill is fine and the collets are bad?...
 
Also, be sure all the screw is removed, if there is a little bump sticking out, it might prevent the collet from seating properly.
That damn screw was the first thing I removed on my mill...
 
Double check the length on your drawbar. It’s possible that the threaded end of your drawbar is bottoming out in the collet not allowing it to draw fully into the spindle.

On my PM932 I found that the drawbar was either just a few millimeters too long or the collets were a few mm too shallow.

I cut a small spacer to fit between the nut of the drawbar and the top of the quill. Got me happily milling again although a new drawbar is on my to do list.

Good luck and let us know what happens.
 
Double check the length on your drawbar. It’s possible that the threaded end of your drawbar is bottoming out in the collet not allowing it to draw fully into the spindle.

On my PM932 I found that the drawbar was either just a few millimeters too long or the collets were a few mm too shallow.

I cut a small spacer to fit between the nut of the drawbar and the top of the quill. Got me happily milling again although a new drawbar is on my to do list.

Good luck and let us know what happens.
Makes sense, the collets were never being tightened fully in the first place, thus causing the set screw to shear off. Spindle replacement might not be necessary.
 
me and a friend who makes custom mold has several cnc machines and has also bought from pm and was looking at purchasing the same mill after seeing mine and wanting another manual mill tried multiple things. frankly recovering from surgery I wouldn't have been able to do it alone. the collets worked fine in other mills. we used two different draw bars spacers reworked one draw bar etc and multiple r8 tools everything barely made any contact in the taper after blueing. there was a line about the half the width of a pencil line of contact at the base of the taper. you could crank a tool down so tight you'd need a big hammer to knock it loose and one turn of the draw bar would fall right out you could hammer a collet or whatever into the spindle with a dead blow and block of wood several times collet would fall right out . We chased all the threads ran taps through the collets trust me we did everything possible and then some and sent video to Matt trust me tearing apart and repairing a couple month old machine is the last thing I wanna do recovering from double back surgery
 
That's why we figured the collet screw sheared because that was the only thing allowing a collet to tighten after that you had to be able to hold anything to get it to tighten it was a lot of work and usually took two to get something to tighten we spent about 3 hours doing every test we could think of before figuring that's the problem a collet should have more than a couple percent engagement in a taper
 
It sounds like the drawbar may be too long or is otherwise bottoming out in the collet threads. A quick check is to put a washer or three on the drawbar and try again and see how that works. My drawbar for R8 collets engages the collets about 1", and that is just about the length of engagement limit.
 
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