- Joined
- Nov 15, 2016
- Messages
- 943
Evolution make some good quality well priced saws specifically for metal I can recommend.
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Using a radial arm saw for metal cutting?
- Thread starter Jake2465
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2013
- Messages
- 1,020
I started cutting aluminum plates on my radial arm saw many years before I heard how dangerous it was. I needed some smaller
chunks of 1/2" 6061 alum plate and didn't want to have to order it precut to size. I had a carbide toothed metal cutting blade
that I got for cutting some 1/8" brass plates for a kitchen cabinet I was making. I figured out that climb could be a (dangerous) problem,
and decided to cut from the front of the plate, pushing the saw back instead of pulling it forward.. I clamped the plate to the table on
both sides of the cut with 2X4's both on the front edges and on the top of each plate thus holding it against the back fence and
downward against the table. I started with very light cuts with the blade making only about 1/16" groove along the top surface.
I then slowly increased the cutting depth for each cut finally arriving at taking about 3/16" with each cut. I was amazed at how easy
and quick it was to cut 10" x 10" pieces out of the 1/2" plate. After figuring out the setup, it went very quickly, the thing that took
the longest was getting all the clamps on and off for each piece. I've attached a few pictures of this to show the complete operation
including the great edge finish that I got. My biggest safety concern was the possibility of loosing a carbide tooth from the blade, so
I made sure that I wasn't standing in front of the saw. So although some say it's very dangerous, I say that you can make it as safe
as most shop operations if you use your noggin an take it slowly.
.
chunks of 1/2" 6061 alum plate and didn't want to have to order it precut to size. I had a carbide toothed metal cutting blade
that I got for cutting some 1/8" brass plates for a kitchen cabinet I was making. I figured out that climb could be a (dangerous) problem,
and decided to cut from the front of the plate, pushing the saw back instead of pulling it forward.. I clamped the plate to the table on
both sides of the cut with 2X4's both on the front edges and on the top of each plate thus holding it against the back fence and
downward against the table. I started with very light cuts with the blade making only about 1/16" groove along the top surface.
I then slowly increased the cutting depth for each cut finally arriving at taking about 3/16" with each cut. I was amazed at how easy
and quick it was to cut 10" x 10" pieces out of the 1/2" plate. After figuring out the setup, it went very quickly, the thing that took
the longest was getting all the clamps on and off for each piece. I've attached a few pictures of this to show the complete operation
including the great edge finish that I got. My biggest safety concern was the possibility of loosing a carbide tooth from the blade, so
I made sure that I wasn't standing in front of the saw. So although some say it's very dangerous, I say that you can make it as safe
as most shop operations if you use your noggin an take it slowly.
.
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2016
- Messages
- 286
NortonDommi, which Evolution saw do you have? It seems they make a few different models at very different price points.
Obviously you are happy with it, any issues? My neighbour is looking to buy one of these saws and he is balking at the cost of the Slugger. (they are now $738 +taxes here)
Some reviews of the Evolution 14" & 15" (even though both come with 14" blades) were not very positive and had issues with play in the blade alignment and the unit being cheaply made.
Both brands appear to be made in China but I went with the Slugger because of the Fein name behind it and the mostly very positive reviews.
I compared this one from Evolution as it seemed the closest match.
https://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Power-Tools-EVOSAW380-15-Inch/dp/B003TX1UPO
I think it was about $100 less than the Slugger online but I needed one quickly for a job and couldn't wait a week and my local KMS tools had a few left with the old pricing so I haggled a bit and got a fair deal.
David.
Obviously you are happy with it, any issues? My neighbour is looking to buy one of these saws and he is balking at the cost of the Slugger. (they are now $738 +taxes here)
Some reviews of the Evolution 14" & 15" (even though both come with 14" blades) were not very positive and had issues with play in the blade alignment and the unit being cheaply made.
Both brands appear to be made in China but I went with the Slugger because of the Fein name behind it and the mostly very positive reviews.
I compared this one from Evolution as it seemed the closest match.
https://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Power-Tools-EVOSAW380-15-Inch/dp/B003TX1UPO
I think it was about $100 less than the Slugger online but I needed one quickly for a job and couldn't wait a week and my local KMS tools had a few left with the old pricing so I haggled a bit and got a fair deal.
David.
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2016
- Messages
- 943
Hi Kiwi Canuk I have a Rage 185 circular saw and a Rage-3 cut-off saw but would love one of the newer sliding saws. I'm very happy with them. Bought at good price on Trade Me. I made an arbor for my mill/drill and use the 185 mm blade for heavy slotting, heaviest to date has been 2" 1145 and it breezed through. Evolution make a range of tools in three classes. The English website is the best for information.
The lack of heat is the best thing I like about them as I was using either a bandsaw,(which was either put away or set up for something else when I needed to make a cut),or gas or hacksaw or abrasive cut-off wheel.
First impression was that they were a bit lightly built but not so, well designed, easy to adjust and use and except for brick I just stick to the steel blade.
I've seen blades on Ebay at very good prices but even retail they are a lot cheaper than other brands such as Makita, Bosch, DeWalt etc.
The lack of heat is the best thing I like about them as I was using either a bandsaw,(which was either put away or set up for something else when I needed to make a cut),or gas or hacksaw or abrasive cut-off wheel.
First impression was that they were a bit lightly built but not so, well designed, easy to adjust and use and except for brick I just stick to the steel blade.
I've seen blades on Ebay at very good prices but even retail they are a lot cheaper than other brands such as Makita, Bosch, DeWalt etc.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2013
- Messages
- 1,189
A good friend of mine restores furniture and works with woodworking machinery. Those saws can grab more than just wood. It only took a split second, but John's left hand is now the shape of a crabs claw. I like tools and have too many. A radial arm saw is one tool that I refuse to own.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2017
- Messages
- 88
I have done this many times. Push do not pull. Clamp work to table and keep your hands far away. It works just fine for tubing and angles. Not sure I would do this a lot though.
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2014
- Messages
- 2,728
It would be nice to know if the OP is still around, and his fingers, too.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2013
- Messages
- 1,020
As I have written before, I (still) cut aluminum bar, rod, plate etc with a carbide toothed metal cutting blade. Caution is a must as should be the case with any machining operation. The material must be THOROUGHLY CLAMPED TO THE TABLE on both sides of the blade, and with blocks on front and sides of the material.
The saw is gently pushed NOT PULLED into the material from the front TOWARDS the backstop. Multiple cuts at increasing depths are taken usually about 1/16” to 1/8” deep each. EASY DOES IT. DO NOT STAND IN FRONT OF THE BLADE! A flying carbide tip could be very dangerous should it break loose. No hands should be anywhere near the table UNTIL THE BLADE QUITS SPINNING.
And yes, I have witnessed what can happen if the cut is made from the back towards the front of the material. This is to be avoided art all cost. When properly setup this can be a fairly rapid and easy to control process that produces beautiful clean cuts.
The Grumpy Old Coot
The saw is gently pushed NOT PULLED into the material from the front TOWARDS the backstop. Multiple cuts at increasing depths are taken usually about 1/16” to 1/8” deep each. EASY DOES IT. DO NOT STAND IN FRONT OF THE BLADE! A flying carbide tip could be very dangerous should it break loose. No hands should be anywhere near the table UNTIL THE BLADE QUITS SPINNING.
And yes, I have witnessed what can happen if the cut is made from the back towards the front of the material. This is to be avoided art all cost. When properly setup this can be a fairly rapid and easy to control process that produces beautiful clean cuts.
The Grumpy Old Coot