Valve train geometry

eugene13

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I'm building a new head for my rat rod, I had a friend install new stellite seats, valve guides and valves, now it's up to me to set up the geometry. This is done by shortening (or lengthening) the valve stem until the valve lift in + or - .005 of the advertised lift. I've done this more times than I can remember, but my problem now is I don't know the lift on a stock cam. I've searched the internet for the numbers but no luck, helllllllp!
 

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What engine is it?
 
Just measure the minimum and maximum size of the lobe and multiply the difference by the ratio of the rocker/follower.
Pierre
It dosn't work like that on these OHCs. The rocker does not have a ratio, as the cam lobe sweeps across the wear pad the distance from the pivot to the pressure point (ratio) changes. I've always done this with a racing cam, and they give you the lift etc. Getting the geometry correct also places the wear pattern in the center of the wear pad, but there's no accurate way to measure it. I was hoping someone might have an old service manual. I'll post a picture of a rocker tomorrow.
 
Which version? Is the info on either of these pages?





Pierre
 
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Which version? Is the info on either of these pages?





Pierre
Thank you, I'll check them out as soon as I leave here. Here's a pic of the rocker, went there and now I'm back, .399" now I can go to work, thanks again.
 

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I titled the thread valve train geometry, so I'm going to show how it's done; first pic, the head mounted in the work fixture with the cam installed, the steel strip mounted on the gasket rail is for mounting the mag base for the dial indicator.

The first thing I do is transfer the number on the cam follower to the outside of the box, the followers will be installed with the smallest number on #1 exhaust, the next on #1 intake, and so on. This helps me keep track as I will do the exhaust side first.

The valves are in the head at 8 degrees from vertical and the indicator must match that or it will induce cosine error, I use a square, angle blocks, and a surface plate to set up the indicator.

OK, now I get to show off my new toy, my son got me this on some online auction. It's metric and standard and has a +- function so I can pre-load the indicator, cycle the cam, and directly read the lift.

Now comes the fun part, shorten the stem until you get the advertised lift. The first measurement is .340. I know that the new valves are +.100 of stock stem length, since I'm using a stock cam and rockers the finished length will be somewhere near stock length, I will remove .070", this gives me a lift of .386" and removing another .015 gives me the final lift of .396", as long as I am within .005" of the target it's good. Repeat this process 7 more times and you're done. the first follower shows the contact patch at .340" lift, and the second is the patch at .396", you can see how it is better centered than the other.

All I have to do now is install the hydraulic adjusters and make sure I have .050" minimum clearance when fully collapsed, and then install the head of course, Happy Motoring.
 

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I had a small number of drivers (Mustang II/2300), always thought they' be a nice competion car with a quick enancement to the engine. I'm glad to see the engine is still in use.
 
I had a small number of drivers (Mustang II/2300), always thought they' be a nice competion car with a quick enancement to the engine. I'm glad to see the engine is still in use.
We raced them for a number of years, Won a WISSOTA Mod 4 track championship in 2001, this engine was in a Pinto Mini Stock, it resides in my Rat Rod now. It's a long rod with a balanced and Cryo treated bottom end. I built this new head because the racing head and cam was not streetable.
Is that a Studebaker in your avatar?
 
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