Vehicle circulation water pump housing built, need advice.

GoceKU

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I need to build a calculation pump on 12v for a webasto heating system, for longevity reason i've chosen to use an proper water pump from an car but i can't use the housing because is part of the engine block, therefore i'll like some advice if someone has built or has some experience with this style of water pumps?
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Never made a water pump, mostly just bored and thought I'd type something ...,
At this point it probably would be better to be looking at the pump part engine block (because that is the part you are trying to reproduce).
I would make as many measurements as possible, of course paying particular attention diameter & depth of pump cavity - (is it round?), o-ring and stud positions, any "swirls" in the bottom, etc. But don't overlook to inlet and outlet designs and positions as well as length and diameter of immediate straight sections of inlet and outlet paths.
It will probably work pretty good without being an exact copy of the engine block, but the closer the better! I believe (unlike many others) that most times that the engineering the professionals produce is probably a good balance between longevity, function and cost. You might make it work a little better, but you have a lot better chance of screwing it up!
 
Maybe a motorcycle one will be easyer to use since it is only part of right cover not entire engine.
 
Experience in how the operate, yes. That particular pump will require machining the coned wall that matches the impeller taper. I would suggest looking for a complete self-contained pump such as what Ford used on some of their quad-cam V6s, or at least a catridge pump like the BMW M44 (98 318i for example)
 
A pump I'm familiar with required that the end clearance (between the end of the vanes and the back of the cavity) be as little as possible. Part prints indicated that max was .015, .005 would be much better, but we (the owners of survivors built 60 to 70 years ago) determined that manufacturing specs couldn't be held that closely. We found that rebuilt pumps were assembled to have nearer 1/16 clearance, and didn't really cool the engine. We soon learned how to adjust the vanes on the shaft (heat and pull with a bearing puller, try for fit, do again, etc.) Certainly there are other constraints, too. If I had an old Studebaker water pump I'd send it to you. They are independent of the block.
 
I went looking for a more suitable pump ether an complete or smaller but only thing i found is an old washing machine pump which i have no intention of using that left me to continue with the one i've got, first i centered clamped and welded the coupler to the pulley then i cut of the pulley to remove as much rotating mass as i can, i also cut down the mounting flange to make it smaller, i'll update this thread as i make progress, maybe someone will need to make one and this will help.
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We have used older Chevrolet pumps and drove them using a belt. Make plates suitable to go where it bolts to the block. Also the pump needs equal or positive pressure.
 
2004-2009 Toyota Prius 12 volt water pump on E-bay about $56.00
Or go to the scrap yard and pull one out for about $20.00
**G**
 
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