Vevor Drill Bit Sharpener Trials - Split Point Adjustment

[Kam Fong]

I'm still waiting for the ER25 chuck and collets from ali. Any week now...

 

[drstruggle]

Not the new collets and chuck.

But I did test, the ones that came with the machine, as soon as it arrived. It is idiot proof (at least for this idiot). I like it a lot!!

I did take photos of the first one I did... I forgot to make several passes... just the excitement of using it for the first time...

Before

View attachment 522259

Hi guys.
I am new here. Recently i started doing some Fusion360 designing, oursourcing some lasering work and i have build a belt grinder machine myself. That was fun!
I am busy doing a re-design with some optimizations.
At the same time i bought some welding stuff and will soon try to learn some welding.
So, nice to meet you all.

Having done some 'actual work' i found that drill bits tend to degenerate quite fast. Probably mostly due to my own lack of experience, but nevertheless. Hence i bought a Vevor 13b drill bit sharpener. It's one of those things one wants to have i guess.

However, i have just used it for a test and i found my result to be exactly as here above. I thought: that looks weird... is that good?
So, here's my question.
That result (like here above) is somewhat different that the way the drill looked when i bought it.
The original was a split point, like the pic i added below.

What i am wondering is:
- Is the sharpening result from 13B preferable or not, compared to the original factory design?
- Should i return this device and opt for the 13A, (i think the result from that is closer to the orginal)? Or maybe invest in a more expensive Bernardo bg13md for example (which is like the vevor 13D model, which seems no longer available).

In other words: is my result any good? Or should i buy something different for the sake of (drill bit) quality?


Regards!

Effectively what i am asking is:

 

[toprecyler]

Hi guys.
I am new here. Recently i started doing some Fusion360 designing, oursourcing some lasering work and i have build a belt grinder machine myself. That was fun!
I am busy doing a re-design with some optimizations.
At the same time i bought some welding stuff and will soon try to learn some welding.
So, nice to meet you all.

Having done some 'actual work' i found that drill bits tend to degenerate quite fast. Probably mostly due to my own lack of experience, but nevertheless. Hence i bought a Vevor 13b drill bit sharpener. It's one of those things one wants to have i guess.

However, i have just used it for a test and i found my result to be exactly as here above. I thought: that looks weird... is that good?
So, here's my question.
That result (like here above) is somewhat different that the way the drill looked when i bought it.
The original was a split point, like the pic i added below.

What i am wondering is:
- Is the sharpening result from 13B preferable or not, compared to the original factory design?
- Should i return this device and opt for the 13A, (i think the result from that is closer to the orginal)? Or maybe invest in a more expensive Bernardo bg13md for example (which is like the vevor 13D model, which seems no longer available).

In other words: is my result any good? Or should i buy something different for the sake of (drill bit) quality?


Regards!

Effectively what i am asking is:

The real test to see if it’s good, is to drill sone holes with it. It is has a good split point , then it should drill easier than a non split point drill of same size. In order to really tell if it’s sharp, we would need clear closeup pictures of the side of the cutting edge, so you can tell if the heel is lower than the cutting lip edge.

The split point just makes the chisel point smaller so it starts the hole easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RickKr]

...snip...

In other words: is my result any good? Or should i buy something different for the sake of (drill bit) quality?

That looks like a very decent four-facet point grind, from this angle, but as said above, we need to see it from the side to ensure the relief is okay. And just drill with it, as suggested. I do not consider this a "split-point", but as said, a "four-facet" grind. Pictured below is what I would call a "split-point". Might be just terminology, but I see then as quite different.

Rick