VFD as a basic phase converter

So, I would need to get this VFD for $420: https://www.galco.com/buy/Hitachi/WJ200-022LF
AND the appropriate braking resistor for about $20
AND then follow the instructions in the MKSJ PDF and a few hours later I will either have:
  • A sweet running lathe.
  • or a migraine headache and a very expensive jigsaw puzzle.
Who has followed the PDF with a different Make and Model VFD and what was the process and outcome?
 
Tolerent said:
So, I would need to get this VFD for $420: https://www.galco.com/buy/Hitachi/WJ200-022LF
AND the appropriate braking resistor for about $20
AND then follow the instructions in the MKSJ PDF and a few hours later I will either have:
  • A sweet running lathe.
  • or a migraine headache and a very expensive jigsaw puzzle.
Who has followed the PDF with a different Make and Model VFD and what was the process and outcome?
Click to expand...

That's a nice VFD but not for your use since it requires a 3 phase input, you should be able to get something just as good for a little less than that. As for being able to do the conversion, it's been done lots of times by folks no smarter than you, but if you don't want to mess with it then get something like this:


And wire it between your 240v single phase supply and your new lathe.

Done.

John
 
The eBay listing says more than 10 available so you should be fine there.

As long as you get single phase input (240v, 60Hz) and 220v three phase output at 9 amps or better any VFD should work. The differences are in control circuits, programming, documentation and support. For the money you're spending on the lathe, saving ~$200 on a VFD probably isn't something to worry about and using the same parts as Mark should make it less stressful.

You're going down a well traveled path here and there are many guides available along the way :encourage:


John
 
"Going down a well traveled"...

When I was in High School someone told me everyone was doing... Oops. Never mind.
 
A double pole single throw relay works well on an incoming 220 line. The relay is simply operated with a
single pole toggle switch that applies 120 volts AC to the relay. The control circuit can be light duty wire
and most any on-off switch will be fine. You don't have to unplug anything or dump a breaker, just
turn it on or off. The relay I used is a DPST rated at 20 amperes and runs on 120 volts AC.
 
i have worked with very expensive and very cheap drives. the only real difference is how much money you want to spend.
expensive drives don't have magic inside of them, they can fail too.
i'd rather spend the extra money on tooling or other tools
 
Ulma Doctor said:
i have worked with very expensive and very cheap drives. the only real difference is how much money you want to spend.
expensive drives don't have magic inside of them, they can fail too.
i'd rather spend the extra money on tooling or other tools
Click to expand...
Programming is likely going to require the same amount of drilling into reference material?
My biggest concern with a cheap drive is technical support in the form of readable and understandable reference materials.
 
VFD is the WJ200-015SF which is $275. https://www.driveswarehouse.com/wj200-015sf
Many of the less expensive VFD's lack both the programming parameters needed for a lathe and the braking circuitry/parameters. QED.
The programming is simple, because it is all laid out for you, no futzing and trying to figure out why it isn't working. Look at the number of threads on people posting how do I program XYZ VFD and find out it either doesn't work or the manual is so poorly written even technicians can't figure it out. You look at the DOA rate of say the HY VFD's and they are reported to be as high as 25%, and from people that work on these for a living, there is a big difference between the generic Chinese ones and more name brand. In the past 10 years I have yet to see a VFD failure with a Hitachi, Yaskawa or Teco drive, dealing with numerous people.

The few HY/generic VFDs installs I have worked with individuals on have been a nightmare. Bottom line if they work and do not fail up front they are likely to work for a while longer, their programming and interfaces is poor and you typically get no support or warranty. Is it worth $100 difference on a $5000 lathe. :bang head:
 
mksj said:
VFD is the WJ200-015SF which is $275. https://www.driveswarehouse.com/wj200-015sf
Many of the less expensive VFD's lack both the programming parameters needed for a lathe and the braking circuitry/parameters. QED.
The programming is simple, because it is all laid out for you, no futzing and trying to figure out why it isn't working. Look at the number of threads on people posting how do I program XYZ VFD and find out it either doesn't work or the manual is so poorly written even technicians can't figure it out. You look at the DOA rate of say the HY VFD's and they are reported to be as high as 25%, and from people that work on these for a living, there is a big difference between the generic Chinese ones and more name brand. In the past 10 years I have yet to see a VFD failure with a Hitachi, Yaskawa or Teco drive, dealing with numerous people.

The few HY/generic VFDs installs I have worked with individuals on have been a nightmare. Bottom line if they work and do not fail up front they are likely to work for a while longer, their programming and interfaces is poor and you typically get no support or warranty. Is it worth $100 difference on a $5000 lathe. :bang head:
Click to expand...
I agree. Thanks everyone for the valuable insights and advice. You are a treasure.
 
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