VFD conversion for Smart and Brown 1024

[Beckerkumm]

I'm sure the S and B group is small but some may be interested in the VFD conversion I did ( Mark Jacobs did ) on my 1024. The S and B is very similar in build to a Holbrook C13, another English lathe. Unlike the Monarch 10ee, it has both a matrix clutch with a 3.6-1 reduction and a back gear with an 8-1 reduction. This gives a lot of range when ditching the original three speed motor and the useful range is from 0-3000 rpm. I found a NOS TENV 5 hp 1800 rpm motor for cheap and through begging coaxed Mark to do the conversion. System includes forward, reverse, jog, HZ display, two stage braking, and a proximity stop and bypass. Motor has full torque to zero and I can run up to 120 hz. 60hz translates to 1629 rpm at 1-1.

Mark put up with a lot from me and was successful inspite of my best efforts to screw things up. I've rehabbed a lot of old machines but am only familiar with old mechanical contactors likw Allen Bradley 709 and Cutler Hammer 8536, etc. The new stuff, and particularly the inductive sensor made my brain explode but Mark got me through it. He did make me promise to never solder anything he had to use again.

I'm getting used to the new controls and like most of what I specified. Mark wasn't keen on the HZ display and while I like knowing my choices for speed and hz with the combinations available, I could have used the spot to put a remote display for the WJ200 055LF I used. That would have given me more options in some ways although the Trumeter display is OK. I might replace the momentary stop with a larger one that is more obvious to hit but I'm getting used to it. I might also order some laser etched switches for the four buttons with little room for legends, and did add a Tachulator for RPM, and SFM. DRO is actually a mix of Easson and Fagor. Will eventually swap the readout to Easson and more the Fagor to my Moore Jig Bore.

Mark builds a lot of safety into his systems and anyone considering this type of conversion should seek him out. He is very reasonable, even cheap, and gives a lot of free time for questions. I've restored a lot of woodworking machines but am new to metalworking so asked a lot of dumb questions. I'll be asking more here. Also a big thanks to David Best for his help and particularly his new book which is a must read. Dave

 

[Aukai]

I put him through the wringer too on my project, what a Saint

 

[Ben17484]

That’s a nice looking lathe Will be much improved with the VFD as well.


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[Beckerkumm]

Just got the machine back running. I was using a contactor to power up the vfd and after a year of working just fine, I blew the drive. Replaced it with another WJ200-055LF and it immediately blew when fired up. I still don't know what caused the issue but replaced the contactor with a three pole manual switch and put fast acting fuses between the switch and the vfd. Now all is well but I still don't know what the problem was. Even Mark was stumped and he knows all when it comes to vfd stuff.

After that experience I'm putting fuses before the vfd as recommended. I've never had a problem and used lots of vfds but kind of like eating bad fish, one experience is enough. Dave

 

[Bazer_20002000]

Hi could I ask you a favour? My 1024's Matrix Gearbox is missing its name plate and I see you have taken a picture of it DSCN4094 but I cant quite see the model number. Could you have a look at the original and let me know the model number? I would be also interested to hear you views on the motor sizing for the 1024. I have been using mine with a 1.5HP 4 pole 240V three phase inverter drive for 15 years and its all been fine, but I have had to solve some oil leaks in the lube system and its got me thinking about upgrading the motor.
Cheers Barry

 

[Beckerkumm]

I will send specifics later but it is a size 25. Keep in mind there are at least two designs of the Matrix. The Gluts ( bronze keys that shift ) and the plates and spindles are the same but the adjustments are different. The later ones have the knurled rings vs the pins you pull out.

I run a 5 hp motor in mine but 3 hp 4 pole is appropriate. The frame size is the size for both sizes and I got a deal on a TENV Baldor. The bed and spindle are very stout, heavier than a Monarch 10ee but I believe the drive train with the two flat belts , tailstock, and the apron and feeds are a little more delicate. I keep my motor belt slightly less tight so a too heavy cut throws the belt. There is a shear pin but it doesn't look like fun to replace. Due to the design of the 1024 Mk 1, you want a motor capable of a wide range as you only have a back gear and two speed clutch.

Ian Robinson in the UK knows much about the 1024 and will likely chime in over at the S and B forum. Dave

 

[StinkworksUK]

I've got a 1024 which I'm going to convert to vfd with a new TEC motor (as my rotary phase converter blew the original motor). I am not looking forward to dropping the old motor from its mountings as it no doubt weighs a ton.

 

[Beckerkumm]

Given the lack of gear speeds, you want a vector duty motor to cover the wide range needed. The old three speed motor is heavy. i used a scissors lift cart from Harbor freight and extended the bed to fit under the motor to hold it in place when removing and replacing. Dave

 

[StinkworksUK]

Given the lack of gear speeds, you want a vector duty motor to cover the wide range needed. The old three speed motor is heavy. i used a scissors lift cart from Harbor freight and extended the bed to fit under the motor to hold it in place when removing and replacing. Dave

Thanks or the advice Dave, I'll make sure the motor I buy is a vector duty. Re the motor, I've got a scissor jack under it, realised that the front nuts are going to be a challenge, and then got side tracked. I have couple of project to complete first (partial restoration of an Adcock and Shipley 1 ES and grinding the table on the surface grinder) and then I'll be on it until its finished.

 

[Beckerkumm]

It's worth the cost to buy a set of Whitworth wrenches too. They are just enough different in size from UN to make it a pain to adjust bolts. They aren't very expensive. Dave