VFD on Step Pulley Mill

ChandlerJPerry said:
I've been having some trouble determining what the amp draw would be on the single phase side of the VFD when powering a three phase motor. I have a 20A 110v circuit so I can't imagine it would take more than that, but I want to make sure.
Click to expand...

You should check the specs for your VFD. Below are specs for a Teco L510. Note that the Teco L510-101-H1-U (1hp 115V input) draws 19 amps. That's cutting it close for a 20A circuit, probably ok if it is a dedicated outlet. Most of the time it will be much less.

TecoL510_specs.JPG
 
I've run a Grizzly G1007/RF-30 with a Teco VFD and 2HP motor (240V single phase input) for several years now. Wouldn't be without the variable speed! I haven't had to change belt positions often - found a "sweet spot" belt combination and it covers nearly all my needs. Haven't had any problem with the motor running hot. Probably because I'm running it pretty fast for most milling tasks. The main thing I've used low speed for is tapping (LOVE the instant reversal!!!), and that's not a long duration task. If nothing else, I usually go back to full speed between holes to do the center drill and tap drill.

PS - Regarding the center pulley ... I used a combination of blue Loctite on the bolts, heavy washers, and antisieze between the mount and the belt case, so that there was just enough tension/friction on the mount to keep it on the level, yet allow rotation to accommodate belt changes.

PS - Here's a good article from Rick Sparber (forum member) that suggests color-coding the belt position table, so you'll know when you have to swap which belt is above the other. Rick also owns an (Enco) RF-30 clone with a 3 phase motor and Teco VFD.
 
DavidR8 said:
It’s running on a 20A 220V circuit. It doesn’t draw anything close to the circuit capacity though. If I recall correctly the motor draws 5A.

I’ll check the exact specs later today.
Edit: the max motor draw is 4.7A.

If you have any way to pull a 220V circuit I would do it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I wish I could but it's not in the cards since I am renting, I would be willing to propose it as an improvement but I can already tell it's not really feasible in a reasonable/affordable way at this property. So the 110v is what I'll be stuck with until I move, which won't be for quite awhile unfortunately.
 
If you have a unused dryer outlet, or one you're willing to unuse for a time, you can build an extension cord to do it. I did that when I was renting. We had a gas dryer at the time, so it was really easy.

Most homes run the lights and outlets on the same circuit for the room. 19A for the mill will likely trip the breaker if you have anything at all drawing power on that circuit. Another option is a large extension cord, rated for the current of course, to run the mill on a different circuit. For 19A, 12AWG should be fine. Just don't try it with the el-cheapo 18AWG extension cords from the dollar store! :)

If the breaker box is accessible, that's another possible way..... It's possible to make any changes reversible so you aren't modifying the property. The landlord might require an electrician to do the work though. If I were to do that, I would run an outdoor enclosure with an outlet and use an extension cord.

The cords I made were 110V 10AWG cords I cut the ends off of and wired 220V ends on to. No neutral, so no 110V loads. But most 220V stuff doesn't need it.
 
ttabbal said:
If you have a unused dryer outlet, or one you're willing to unuse for a time, you can build an extension cord to do it. I did that when I was renting. We had a gas dryer at the time, so it was really easy.

Most homes run the lights and outlets on the same circuit for the room. 19A for the mill will likely trip the breaker if you have anything at all drawing power on that circuit. Another option is a large extension cord, rated for the current of course, to run the mill on a different circuit. For 19A, 12AWG should be fine. Just don't try it with the el-cheapo 18AWG extension cords from the dollar store! :)

If the breaker box is accessible, that's another possible way..... It's possible to make any changes reversible so you aren't modifying the property. The landlord might require an electrician to do the work though. If I were to do that, I would run an outdoor enclosure with an outlet and use an extension cord.

The cords I made were 110V 10AWG cords I cut the ends off of and wired 220V ends on to. No neutral, so no 110V loads. But most 220V stuff doesn't need it.
Click to expand...
I've had all these thoughts before. The breaker panel is inside my apartment, I live in a 4plex with attached garages for each unit, the breaker panel for my apt and garage is inside and has to run through the wall/floor (2nd level apartment) to get power out to the garage. The only way to get 220 from the panel to the garage would take a lot of drywall removal and general headache, OR would have to be run directly off the meter, either way not something I would do. The extension cord idea would work but be hugely inconvenient since I'm on a second floor so it would have to go out a window and some distance to get where it needs to be :grin big:. Also not that appealing to have to open a window in the winter here! The only 220V circuit besides the interior one for the dryer is an external one for the central air unit, but it's run directly off the meter with a single breaker for the unit, so I can't really modify that. I know how to pull a meter to shut off the power but I've heard the power company gets cranky when you do that :rolleyes:.
 
Hmm... second floor certainly makes that interesting. It would be funny though... :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top