VFD wiring issues- Please help

Buickgsman

Buickgsman

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I got my VFD today and ran out to wire it up quick just as a test of the motor and lathe and I didnt have good luck. Can anyone here shed any light on the problem I am having? The VFD is a TECO JNEV-101-H1. The display is saying that I have low voltage. I checked and the incoming volts are 117. The motor barely spins when the belt is set close to the motor speed. When the belt is set farthest away from the motor( or with the belt off) it will spin at a decent clip but it sounds underpowered. The incoming power is wired into L1, L3 and PE(ground). The outgoing wires to the motor are wired to T1, T2, T3, and PE(ground). Thats all I need right? The wires going out to the motor T1, T2,T3 shouldnt matter where they are on the motor right or does it? Thats one thing I didnt worry about is the wires coming off of the motor.. or is there a rhyme or reason to which motor terminals the T1, T2, and T3 wires go to. I'm hoping that is my solution, or I have bigger problems because something isnt right. Also, most (but not all) of my garage outlets are GFCI protected and the GFCI tripped as soon as I turned the VFD on. Is that normal or possibly related to whatever problem I am having? This VFD is being wired to a Clausing 4904 with a 1hp 3 phase Howell electric motor.

Thanks!
Bob
 
I'm not familiar with the Teco but, have a few thoughts....

If the owner's manual has a troubleshooting guide, see what the possible causes are for that warning message.

Is the motor wired for 440 instead of 220? Maybe the VFD is sensing out of range current at the motor side and it's trying to tell you the voltage is too low.

It's possible the TECO's input and output voltages must be preset with registers. It might be set for 220 input and you're supplying 110. Same thing on the output side.

BTW: 110 is a generalization that means voltages roughly between 110 to 120.
 
What motor do you have? Can you show us a close-up of the motor label? How many wires are there in the motor junction box? Just the three?

There are a lot of factors that go into running a motor. With some more information, we might spot the problem.
 
Thanks for the quick replies guys! I didnt even consider that the motor could be wired for 440V but I guess that is entirely possible. I will have to pull the motor out tomorrow and see if I can figure out how it is wired. If its wired for 440v I will try and rewire it for 220v 3 phase. I'll report back with more info on the motor and hopefully there are wiring schematics on the motor plate.

Thanks!
Bob
 
I don't have any experience with that particular VFD. All of mine is with Hitachi VFD's.

I did look at the EV INVERTER SERIES Operating Manual for your VFD.

Based on the model number it is a 110V single phase input drive with the inputs going to L1 and L3 exactly as you have suggested you have yours hooked up.

The three outputs to the motor are T1, T2 and T3 and it does not make any difference that I am aware on how they are initially hooked up. The only reason you would need to change them is if the motor turns "backwards". Then you just need to swap any two and the motor will run "forwards". Again, exactly as you have described.

Several assumptions are being made here.

That the 117 volt wiring is reasonably large. The VFD maximum input current rating is 17.9 amps. Obviously that is when you are generating maximum power but there may be an issue with a large inrush current when you turn it on and the 'just want to test it out' input wiring is not up to the start up current needs. That is just speculation on my part.

That the motor is set up for 220 volt input. Many motors expose multiple windings and can be configured for both low and high voltage ... often thought of as 220 and 440 volt. Given the specified output of your VFD you would want to employ the low voltage\220 volt pattern.

Regretfully it sounds like you 'have it wired correctly'.

Sorry to do nothing other than confirm that fact.
 
Buickgsman said:
I got my VFD today and ran out to wire it up quick just as a test of the motor and lathe and I didnt have good luck. Can anyone here shed any light on the problem I am having? The VFD is a TECO JNEV-101-H1. The display is saying that I have low voltage. I checked and the incoming volts are 117. The motor barely spins when the belt is set close to the motor speed. When the belt is set farthest away from the motor( or with the belt off) it will spin at a decent clip but it sounds underpowered. The incoming power is wired into L1, L3 and PE(ground). The outgoing wires to the motor are wired to T1, T2, T3, and PE(ground). Thats all I need right? The wires going out to the motor T1, T2,T3 shouldnt matter where they are on the motor right or does it? Thats one thing I didnt worry about is the wires coming off of the motor.. or is there a rhyme or reason to which motor terminals the T1, T2, and T3 wires go to. I'm hoping that is my solution, or I have bigger problems because something isnt right. Also, most (but not all) of my garage outlets are GFCI protected and the GFCI tripped as soon as I turned the VFD on. Is that normal or possibly related to whatever problem I am having? This VFD is being wired to a Clausing 4904 with a 1hp 3 phase Howell electric motor.

Thanks!
Bob
Click to expand...

from where to where did you test power on the incoming?
chances are that you are not going to be able to run a 220v 3phase, off of a 120v single phase input unless you have on hell of a vfd.
to run a 220v 3phase motor you most likely will have to start with a input of 220v 1phase power.
the motor can be wired in any combination of T1 T2 T3 , but motor rotation will reverse if any two wires are interchanged.
you may want to take note of the motors start up direction if it is unfavorable, swap any t1,t2,t3. wires the motor will start in that direction unless commanded to reverse.
The GFIC is tripping due to a load the 120v circuit can't supply.
bring over some single phase 220v for your input, she'll fire up!

let me know if i can help out any more, i haven't used that brand of vfd, but i have 2 dozen functioning VFD's in operation as we speak, they aren't hard to figure out!
mike:))

dang you apparently have one hell of a vfd to supply 220v 1 hp motor off of 120v, i just read ray's post and then read the manual.
he's right, i'm wrong
 
Last edited:
Glad you posted the link, Kenny.

It looks like F43 through F47 probably need to be programmed to the motor specifications which you'll find on the motor plate.





Kennyd said:
Link to manual: http://www.twmi.com/products/controls/drives/JNEV/mm_JNEV_Manual_05_08.pdf


-Check the motor voltage as stated, please post a pic of the data plate and wiring diagram if there is one.
-Motor is directly wired to VFD correct? No switches in between!
-Check program F52 is set to 20 for 60hz input.
-Is the error LV or something else?
Click to expand...
 
Buickgsman said:
..snip.. Also, most (but not all) of my garage outlets are GFCI protected and the GFCI tripped as soon as I turned the VFD on. Is that normal or possibly related to whatever problem I am having?
Click to expand...
The GFCI only trips when the "hot" to "neutral" current is slightly (VERY slightly) unbalanced. If its overload, that is handled by the circuit breaker. You'll need at least a 20 Amp circuit, and #12 or larger wire for this load to the VFD. I'd suggest a dedicated circuit, if possible. GFCI's tend to false trip when the waveform gets deformed, and VFD's tend to fees a LOT of distortion back into the electric line.

Of course, this isn't your main issue at this time. Sorry I can't help on the VFD, I've not run into a 120 volt VFD powering a 220 volt motor. Silly me, I thought we had to use 220 input for that. (don't put 220 on your 120 VFD, the smoke will get out!)

Edit: Yup, just looked, that 120V VFD will power a 220V three phase load. Amazing! That's just TOO cool!

Ruben
 
FWIW, I've had GFCI's in the kitchen trip for all kinds of weird reasons... Usually happens when the blender and microwave are on at the same time. They seem to be sensitive to conducted noise emission (back-volgage in the lines).



Ruben said:
The GFCI only trips when the "hot" to "neutral" current is slightly (VERY slightly) unbalanced. If its overload, that is handled by the circuit breaker. You'll need at least a 20 Amp circuit, and #12 or larger wire for this load to the VFD. I'd suggest a dedicated circuit, if possible. GFCI's tend to false trip when the waveform gets deformed, and VFD's tend to fees a LOT of distortion back into the electric line.

Of course, this isn't your main issue at this time. Sorry I can't help on the VFD, I've not run into a 120 volt VFD powering a 220 volt motor. Silly me, I thought we had to use 220 input for that. (don't put 220 on your 120 VFD, the smoke will get out!)

Edit: Yup, just looked, that 120V VFD will power a 220V three phase load. Amazing! That's just TOO cool!

Ruben
Click to expand...
 
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