VN #12 Stuck table

[deker]

So, I made a momentary blunder yesterday and ran the table too far to the right (I forgot I had one stop temporarily removed from when I was making a t-nut and new movable stop a bit ago....The hazards of being a hobbyist and having too many things going on and not enough continuous time in the shop). I've removed the right handwheel and bracket as I've seen recommended before and I still can't get the table to crank back with the left wheel. I think the feed lever and gears are what's stuck.

Can somebody clarify what I need to do to get it popped loose without hurting anything. I tried to rotate the feed driveshaft and it seems pretty firmly stuck as well (though I also can't get a good drip on the round shaft). Would loosening the gib and pulling it to the right a bit give me the wiggle room I need, or is there something I'm missing to get the feed driveshaft to wiggle free?

Any help for an idiot in distress is greatly appreciated!

 

[JRock1000]

Can you try changing feedrates? Could be the gearing is clashed up? May not apply to this machine, but that's my first thought.

 

[deker]

Can you try changing feedrates? Could be the gearing is clashed up? May not apply to this machine, but that's my first thought.

Good thought! I'll give that a shot tomorrow and see if it helps.

 

[Cal Haines]

I would start by loosening the gib. Loosen the screw on the right, tighten the screw on the left. If you can't get it to move with a reasonable amount of tightening on the left screw, remove the left screw and use a brass drift to tap on the left end of the gib. When the gib is loose you can use the screw on the left to withdraw it, if necessary. The gib comes out the right side.

I can't think of any valid reason to ever remove either of the permanent feed stops. If you find yourself at a point where you think you need to do so, you're either exceeding the capacity of the machine or you need to change your setup. Under no circumstance should the machine ever be used with power feed with either permanent feed stop missing.

 

[deker]

I would start by loosening the gib. Loosen the screw on the right, tighten the screw on the left. If you can't get it to move with a reasonable amount of tightening on the left screw, remove the left screw and use a brass drift to tap on the left end of the gib. When the gib is loose you can use the screw on the left to withdraw it, if necessary. The gib comes out the right side.

I can't think of any valid reason to ever remove either of the permanent feed stops. If you find yourself at a point where you think you need to do so, you're either exceeding the capacity of the machine or you need to change your setup. Under no circumstance should the machine ever be used with power feed with either permanent feed stop missing.

Thanks Cal, I will give this a shot. As for the reason I had the stop off, it was so I could get a t-nut in between the permanent stops to add a movable one since my machine didn't come with one. That project got interrupted, and I neglected to put things back in place. Fast forward a bit to needing to do another project and I neglected to put the stop back in place. I know better than to run without them, but sometimes life, inattention, and fragmentation bear ill fruit.

 

[deker]

I would start by loosening the gib. Loosen the screw on the right, tighten the screw on the left. If you can't get it to move with a reasonable amount of tightening on the left screw, remove the left screw and use a brass drift to tap on the left end of the gib. When the gib is loose you can use the screw on the left to withdraw it, if necessary. The gib comes out the right side.

Cal,

I actually took the gib all the way out and still nothing. The X-axis leadscrew seems like it's what is wedged. I can rotate the feed driveshaft and that un-stuck the feed lever, but the leadscrew isn't going anywhere. I'm wondering if the backlash adjuster nuts are what's binding. What kind of spanner do I need to reach up in there and back them off? I'm pretty sure I don't have one here, but will get or make one of necessary.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Cal Haines]

An adjustable pin spanner like this is the best tool: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-JC497-Adjustable-Spanner/dp/B00275BKVE/

I think the holes are nominally 1/4", but you should check that. Here's a metric set for less money; you could make your own pin to size: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Adjustable-Hook-Wrench-Spanner/dp/B079P7SP6K/

A straight pin will work in pinch, but a standard punch isn't stiff enough, in my experience, and will bend. You could turn down the end of a piece of high carbon steel (drill rod) to the diameter of the hole. I would probably use 1/2" drill rod.

 

[deker]

An adjustable pin spanner like this is the best tool: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-JC497-Adjustable-Spanner/dp/B00275BKVE/

I think the holes are nominally 1/4", but you should check that. Here's a metric set for less money; you could make your own pin to size: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Adjustable-Hook-Wrench-Spanner/dp/B079P7SP6K/

A straight pin will work in pinch, but a standard punch isn't stiff enough, in my experience, and will bend. You could turn down the end of a piece of high carbon steel (drill rod) to the diameter of the hole. I would probably use 1/2" drill rod.

Thanks Cal. I'll see what I can figure out for a spanner or pin. If nothing else, I'm a blacksmith and knifemaker (more than a machinist) so I'm sure I can cobble something with reasonable strength to get the job done.

 

[BROCKWOOD]

I am neither a machinist or a blacksmith (more like a librarian), but Cal has great experience in this field & I value his perspective! I bought the cheap 1 with the hook - as opposed to the one with the pin & modified it with a Dremel & files into the pin type. While I have a useable tool that does the job - I'd be money ahead just getting the right tool to start with. I need to learn better how to ask questions, because I couldn't find the right tool on my own. Thanks Cal! I need to add that pin type to my tool want list. Mine has been modified to the point that it's really only good in the upper half of it's original range of diameters.

 

[deker]

So, a pin spanner was able to get the locking ring loosened, but the adjuster still isn't budging. Does somebody by chance have a parts explosion of the table to I can get a better idea what my options are at this point?