VN 22L

Don't know a thing about it, but it sure looks solid doesn't it. I especially like the cup holder to the left of the spindle :grin:
LOL, the "cup holder" is the recess for when the mill is converted to horizontal mode. Machine tools vary in price due to location, condition and demand. I bought my VN22L after several years that a reseller had it on the market. He started at over $4,000 (I seem to remember that it was around $4,800) then reduced to $3,500, and so on. I offered $950. My machine was (is) well tooled. VN's don't have the demand that Bridgeports have, so they routinely sell for much less. Only negative is that they don't have a quill. If you want to drill you bring up the table. Power feeds on all three axes, driven by a separate 2 hp feed motor that's in the base of the unit. You can drive X-Y and Z simultaneously.
3-phase motors for the feed and spindle. If you wire the feed motor backwards the feed doesn't work and makes a racket especially when you engage the rapids. If you get a flash light you can view the drive gear for the feeds and see the arrow on the gear.

I had to move mine today. These are heavy, solid machines.
Don't limit your Monarch search to a 10EE, I have a 16 CW and it is a joy to use.

good luck

Mike
 
LOL, the "cup holder" is the recess for when the mill is converted to horizontal mode. Machine tools vary in price due to location, condition and demand. I bought my VN22L after several years that a reseller had it on the market. He started at over $4,000 (I seem to remember that it was around $4,800) then reduced to $3,500, and so on. I offered $950. My machine was (is) well tooled. VN's don't have the demand that Bridgeports have, so they routinely sell for much less. Only negative is that they don't have a quill. If you want to drill you bring up the table. Power feeds on all three axes, driven by a separate 2 hp feed motor that's in the base of the unit. You can drive X-Y and Z simultaneously.
3-phase motors for the feed and spindle. If you wire the feed motor backwards the feed doesn't work and makes a racket especially when you engage the rapids. If you get a flash light you can view the drive gear for the feeds and see the arrow on the gear.

I had to move mine today. These are heavy, solid machines.
Don't limit your Monarch search to a 10EE, I have a 16 CW and it is a joy to use.

good luck

Mike


Thanks for your insight Mike! Much appreciated. Will definitly look into the Monarch 16 CW's! What are your thoughts on fitting it (22L) with a BP J head?
 
Reeltor,
Speaks huge wisdom!
VN also made drill attachments.
If you have a good DP I'm not convinced you need a drill spindle on a mill.
Yes, it requires an additional set up.

Daryl
MN
 
Awesome guys! I am going to try and go look at it sometime next week if it's still available. I will probably offer him $2ooo if everything works well. Any suggestions on a good drill press?
 
Thanks for your insight Mike! Much appreciated. Will definitly look into the Monarch 16 CW's! What are your thoughts on fitting it (22L) with a BP J head?

Daryl probably knows more about that than I do but I think it's a great idea, just mount it to the overarm, no fuss no muss.
There are a number of different Monarchs, only downside is slow spindle speed.
 
Exactly (good point)! My buddy actually has one that is slightly larger than the 10ee that he loves. It also has the taper attachment. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears and much appreciate the info/advice!

Justin
If you have a lathe that works reasonably well for you, then you are in the driver's seat. Consider all lathes that are for sale, do your homework and learn about them, be educated when you meet the seller. Because you already have a working lathe, you can make low offers, ask for more tooling, or whatever you want. If your offer is rejected, you still have a working lathe. Regardless of the asking price, regardless of the seller saying "firm price," stick to your offer. Write your offer on a piece of paper, with your phone number, and write that the offer is good until you buy another lathe or change your mind. There is most certainly a thing which might be called "seller's remorse", when the realization hits that the asking price and the market to not match. You will very likely get a call, and if you don't, you still have your working lathe and your money. There is no stress on your end! Often, the more unreasonable the original asking price is, the more likely a smart buyer will get it for a song.
 
I will not run down BP users.
However, if offered either I'll take my Cincy Toolmaster or VN no drill quill over a BP.

Daryl
MN
 
I agree 100% with Bob.
Here are my thoughts on buying anything. The Buyer always sets the price, the seller can ask anything he wants for whatever widget he is selling. The key to getting a "good" deal is how bad do you need it. Like Bob said, if you have a working lathe then you can afford to wait for your deal.

On the other hand the time to buy is when you find it. When I bought my mill I didn't have a clue about what a great machine a VN22L is. If I did, I would have been more earnest in getting it instead of stopping by the seller's warehouse every 6 months or so (for YEARS) to see if it was still there and wave some $$$'s at him.
A 50 taper spindle is worlds above what is on a Bridgeport.
I would much rather have a good running VN22L than a Bridgeport in the same condition. Bridggies sell all day long for $3,500.
Go with cash and a way to load and move the mill right then and there! Of course this is easier if you or a friend owns a trailer that will handle the weight rather then having to rent something. If you do have to rent a trailer, check rental places near where the mill is located ahead of time. Give the seller a small deposit in the form of a check to hold it until you return with the trailer (write a bill of sale with all the particulars spelled out).
How familiar are you with moving a 4-5,000lb machine?

Mike
 
If you have a lathe that works reasonably well for you, then you are in the driver's seat. Consider all lathes that are for sale, do your homework and learn about them, be educated when you meet the seller. Because you already have a working lathe, you can make low offers, ask for more tooling, or whatever you want. If your offer is rejected, you still have a working lathe. Regardless of the asking price, regardless of the seller saying "firm price," stick to your offer. Write your offer on a piece of paper, with your phone number, and write that the offer is good until you buy another lathe or change your mind. There is most certainly a thing which might be called "seller's remorse", when the realization hits that the asking price and the market to not match. You will very likely get a call, and if you don't, you still have your working lathe and your money. There is no stress on your end! Often, the more unreasonable the original asking price is, the more likely a smart buyer will get it for a song.

The problem with my work lathe is that I have to physically change gears to change from threading to turning operations. My SB 9A at home doesn't require this and also has power cross feed, but is pretty clapped out. I would like to have something with a carriage stop for internal treading or turning up to a shoulder.
 
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