I don't have a place to get a good enough picture. But they both have an extended inner race that goes down into the pulley. One on top and one on bottom. I can't see any way of removing them without possibly breaking the smaller pulley lip.
The problem is theone on the end where the small pulley has hardly any clearance to get under the bearing. And the inner race that presses into the pulley has an ID that is not much smaller that the spline in the pulley. So I am afraid if I try to punch it out that I will not get a good enough area to hit it out. I can't make a punch to fit the spline because the bearing ID is smaller than the spline so I would need to get at least one of them out first.
I will try and take pics tomorrow. Right now I am just to exhausted from cleaning up everything on the drill press and starting to paint. Sucks getting old. Just can't seem to do what I used to anymore.
After much searching last night, I decided not to remove the bearings. One does not feel bad at all and the other is full of old dried lube. I am going to clean the lube out and see if they still feel usable. New Bearings are not available and I do not feel comfortable welding a spacer onto the inner race of a bearing with the right size ID & OD. ( The inner race is what is pressed into the pulley. )
Fill the pulley with grease and try using a shaft near the same size as the original and hammer quickly the shaft into the pulley housing- the pressure will pop the bearing out. You may also use a bolt in the bearing to cover the hole to help. In this manner, you're using hydraulic pressure internally.
My description stinks I bet.
Walter. I tried everything I could think off. But with only about .010 of the inside race showing in the splines only it can't get the bearings to move at all. But I did just clean them out real good beacause they were full of hardened lube. They then felt good so I lubed them up and just put everything back together. I put a new collar on the top of the upper spindle bearing because it was missing. And then also noticed the upper pulley bearing was not held so that it could jump up and down by .030. So I added a shim in to stop the movement and put some preload on the bearings. That did the trick because now the drill press runs real quiet and I now have a better finish when milling with it.
Hey Bill I just bought a Walker-Turner I don't know the model but it has a leadscrew to move the head up and down.
Is yours like that? What kind of milling can you do? I assume you have an X-Y vise or table?
When I did ALOT of motor work ,I bought a small slide hammer from snap on , it came with ends made to pull bearings. It wasn't cheap but it worked . Usually just a couple smacks with the hammer . About 12 ounces I think . The puller had a pair of legs that adjusted out wards or inward s.they stayed tight to the bearing. Still have with tons of other very costly tools that work.
I do have an X,Y table mounted on it. I do not have a screw for raising the head. I wish I did. But anyway. I can take as much as .020 at a time when conventional side milling and .005 climb milling. And .010 when milling the top of anything. I do have trouble holding anything closer than .003. I can get as close as .001 if I sneak up on it and make several finish passes. But that is usually with aluminum.
Yep.....I found a missing collar causing all my problems. The bearings in the pulley were usable but if I could have found new ones I would have changed them while I had it apart.
I keep looking for a riser setup that I can afford but no luck.
Looks like the Walker-Turner 900 had two optional accessories but you couldn't use them both together: The low speed intermediate pulley and the head riser mechanism. I have the head riser but the gear box is cracked where it clamps around the column. I'm going to fabricate a copy of the low speed pulley and if I can reweld the cracked gearbox I'm planning to drop it down and use it to raise and lower the table. Good rainy day project.