Wanting to power a lead screw

It looks like the MC-60 controller will run most treadmill motors, and seem to be the most popular. I was not able to find the actual specs on the MC-60 so I'm not sure what the max HP is. But it seems that there were people using them up to about 3HP. Based on the reading I have done, it looks like a 5K pot is the correct choice. Make sure you get one with a linear taper as opposed to an audio pot (logarithmic taper)

I'm sure there are members here that have more information than I was able to find. :anyone:
 
JimDawson said:
It looks like the MC-60 controller will run most treadmill motors, and seem to be the most popular. I was not able to find the actual specs on the MC-60 so I'm not sure what the max HP is. But it seems that there were people using them up to about 3HP. Based on the reading I have done, it looks like a 5K pot is the correct choice. Make sure you get one with a linear taper as opposed to an audio pot (logarithmic taper)

I'm sure there are members here that have more information than I was able to find. :anyone:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think I have that number for a pot like that somewhere, from when I did the VFD on my wood lathe.
Does anyone know if the power supply is built in to these MC-60 controllers?
 
JimDawson said:
I does not seem to be built in. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Treadmill-S...136?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ceebab0d8
Click to expand...

This should be the pot.
http://www.radioshack.com/10k-ohm-linear-taper-potentiometer/2711715.html#.VJtx-QGYKA

So now what?
What do I need to do for a power supply?

OH, so that one has everything with it?
For $65.00 plus $17.00 shipping, the for that one,
The
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-KB-Electronics-DC-Motor-Control-KBMD-240D-9370-/291194107259
for $120.00 is looking better, but if that is the case, now I could almost go with a 110V VFD.
I would like to put this thing together cheap.
 
There a lot of windshield wiper motors off 70's vintage Ford pickups used for winches on 4x4 ATV's to lift snow plows around here.
I used one to remote steer my houseboat. I used it for about 2000 miles on the Mississippi River and it is still going strong on the third owner!
We've always pulled them out of junked pickups and I've never seen one die!
Don't know about other makes! "But this is FORD country"
 
In reading through the specs on the KB unit, it seems you need to buy a few more parts from them to make a complete unit, For/Rev switch for $55, and a horsepower resistor, and then there is the heat sink for $35. So the base price a a bit misleading.
 
JimDawson said:
In reading through the specs on the KB unit, it seems you need to buy a few more parts from them to make a complete unit, For/Rev switch for $55, and a horsepower resistor, and then there is the heat sink for $35. So the base price a a bit misleading.
Click to expand...

Forget what the spec is for the HP, the heat sink I understand is optional.
I know the resistor is only a few bucks.
I thought you could just reverse the motor leads for reverse, so this type of switch would work?

But for that matter, I am not spending $120.00 for that controller either.

switchwire.jpg
 
Yes, that type (DPDT) of switch would work for For/Rev.
 
On that little PWM board and power supply, l was wondering why when I put a volt meter at the output of the board, where the motor hooks up to, I get anywhere from almost 14 voldt at full motor speed, to 0 volts at No motor speed.
I thought the theory behind the PWM board was the voltage stayed the same, and the on off time is what was varied.
Looks like this unit is just cutting the voltage down.
It is varying the motor speed, and the torque seems to remain, but l was just wondering why I see voltage from almost 14 down to 0 volts.
 
What you are reading is what could be termed ''effective voltage'' The actual peak should remain around 14 volts, but the reduced pulse width has the effect of reducing the voltage to the motor. Without an oscilloscope, you really can't tell what the actual output looks like.
 
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