Warco Enco Gh1440a Lathe

Thanks for heads up over the manual, its the same as the one I was supplied with when I got the lathe.
 
Hi
I have 8" chucks, 3 & 4 jaw, i only do work for my self, OK up to now.
have you done any threading in whit or AF, in Metric there is 3-4 gears for the TPI dial, which gear do you use for whitworth. CIMG0157.JPG
Under the T is the gear size, but none for whitworth.

DTI.jpg


CIMG0150.JPG


jeff

TPI.jpg
 
Hi
The photos of the tools is off the net, this is what it will look like when i am done, lol
but with only 11 tool holders.
The lathe is not running yet, i have all the bits, but not the time, but i will get it done in the next 3-4 weeks. lol
jeff
 
Good question concerning whitworth threads, unfortunately not one I can answer. I cant remember the last time I cut a whitworth thread, certainly not with this lathe, come to think of it I cant remember the last time I used a whitworth spanner LOL. To be fair reaching into the box of AF spanners is becoming rare.
I never intended to do work for others, but once they find out you have the equipment and know how to use it it's like flies around the honey pot - especially farmers who need everything fixed yesterday :)
Not working yet? - how long have you had it? - you have more patience then me lol
 
Hi
About 15 months, money, time to get info on VFD & understanding it, old age for the understanding bit, i was a millwright, & bad health.
but at the moment it is going the right way,:encourage:
Did you buy it new,
jeff
 
Hi
I have 8" chucks, 3 & 4 jaw, i only do work for my self, OK up to now.
have you done any threading in whit or AF, in Metric there is 3-4 gears for the TPI dial, which gear do you use for whitworth.
Under the T is the gear size, but none for whitworth.

jeff

I think you'll find you have a metric leadscrew... A thread indicator dial will only work in its "native" measurement system so you won't be able to use it* when cutting "foreign" threads

To cut TPI threads (Whitworth / BSF / BSC / BSB / UNF / UNC / etc...) you'll have to do what I had to on a similar machine in order to cut metric on an Imperial lathe - keep the halfnuts engaged and stomp on the STOP pedal as you hit your run-out groove, back the tool out, reverse the lathe with the FWD/REV lever (NOT the LH/RH threads lever if it has one) past the starting point of the thread (to allow take up of backlash before you get to the workpiece), tool back in and add the next cut, into forward, rinse and repeat...

It sounds a hassle, but comes as second nature after a few threads' practice!

Dave H. (the other one)

*There is a technique that can work with care, dropping the half-nuts out at a specific mark on the dial then reversing as above and re-engaging at the same mark - I find it easier to leave everything engaged, though, and it's the manufacturer's recommendation in my handbook whether Imperial or metric for short threads...
is an excellent tutorial on this :)
 
Hi Dave H (too)
It has TPI threads on the lathe, but at the leadscrew (see photo with red arrow) there is 7 gears only 4 are for metric, it has 127T gear & a list of TPI threads.
I was hoping to not have to keep the halfnuts engaged ???.
jeff
 
Thanks for that Dave H, I suspect you may be right but after looking through the destruction manual I am not totally convinced. If I get some free time later this week I will have a play and let you know.
 
Many years ago I had a moment of distraction when cutting threads and crashed a lathe whilst the ship was in the middle of the pacific, needless to say the CE was not best pleased. A few weeks later he showed me the safe way to cut a thread. I have been using it ever since. I found this the other day and I thought you may find it of interest.
 
Hi Dave H (too)
It has TPI threads on the lathe, but at the leadscrew (see photo with red arrow) there is 7 gears only 4 are for metric, it has 127T gear & a list of TPI threads.
I was hoping to not have to keep the halfnuts engaged ???.
jeff

Looking at the chart, note the compound gear (120 and 127 teeth, both coming into play) used for Imperial threads - this is the conversion from metric to Imperial, or with their places swapped would be Imperial to metric conversion on an Imperial lathe (like mine! Well, sort of...) and makes it pretty plain that you have a metric leadscrew - to cut Imperial threads you'll need to either keep the half-nut engaged OR use the technique in the video I linked - either way, you'll have to reverse back under power to keep in sync' with the thread, I'm afraid :(

It's possible to convert a metric lathe to Imperial, but I suspect (knowing Warco all too well - don't ask) that it'd be a number of limbs for the parts and they'd probably be the wrong ones anyway...

If you were very, very brave, you could design and install a single-tooth clutched leadscrew reverse in the threading geartrain (running at spindle speed) and kiss goodbye to threading dials; it's quite a task, though (mine's drawn up in CAD and STL files for a friend to 3D print dummy parts to see hether there's room for 'em, there are a lot of 'em...)

Dave H. (the other one)
 
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