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Warco Lathe head stock alignment help

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koikidder

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#1
Hi all

First can i say thanks for letting me be apart of this forum, i appreciate all help and advice i can get.

I have got a Warco gh1322 lathe and i am trying to adjust the head stock to run perfectly true to the bed, I chucked up a piece of 50mm by 200mm long bar and took a test cut of approx 150mm in length. After many attempts I got it to measure at the chuck end 32.00mm and at the other end 31.99mm, but when I run a dti down the bar I start at 0 at the chuck and when its runs the length of the bar it says its out by 0.03mm over the 150mm bar. I broke the nib on the dti, i have ordered another one but the readings are the same without the nib end.

(Please tell me if i'm reading the micrometer wrong or the dti) I am self taught which sometimes I think makes it harder so that's why i'm asking for you guys to help me I am unable to get the dti to run at 0 across the length of the bar what am i doing wrong?

I have attached some pictures so maybe you can get a better picture if i haven't explained it properly.

Thanks
 

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RJSakowski

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#2
Hi all

First can i say thanks for letting me be apart of this forum, i appreciate all help and advice i can get.

I have got a Warco gh1322 lathe and i am trying to adjust the head stock to run perfectly true to the bed, I chucked up a piece of 50mm by 200mm long bar and took a test cut of approx 150mm in length. After many attempts I got it to measure at the chuck end 32.00mm and at the other end 31.99mm, but when I run a dti down the bar I start at 0 at the chuck and when its runs the length of the bar it says its out by 0.03mm over the 150mm bar. I broke the nib on the dti, i have ordered another one but the readings are the same without the nib end.

(Please tell me if i'm reading the micrometer wrong or the dti) I am self taught which sometimes I think makes it harder so that's why i'm asking for you guys to help me I am unable to get the dti to run at 0 across the length of the bar what am i doing wrong?

I have attached some pictures so maybe you can get a better picture if i haven't explained it properly.

Thanks
Welcome to the forum. One possibility for the disparity in your measurements.

When turning a long piece, there is a tendency for the outboard end t be a slightly large diameter due to flexing of the stock caused by tool pressure. If you compensate for this using the two collar method of alignment, the spindle axis will be slightly closer to the front at the tailstock end. Now when you sweep with the DTI, the dial indicator will be slightly higher at that end.

The solution is to use very light spring cuts to minimize flexing of the bar. Tool geometry can also affect the flexing. Another is to use Rollie's Dad's Method. You can search for it on this forum or Google it.
 

jeff_g1137

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#3
Hi
Do Not mess with the head stock.
It is not out by a lot 0.0004
Have you set the Lathe up.
PM me & i will give you my phone number.
jeff
 

koikidder

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#4
Hi
Do Not mess with the head stock.
It is not out by a lot 0.0004
Have you set the Lathe up.
PM me & i will give you my phone number.
jeff
Hi Jeff too late i have already messed around however i think were i was going wrong was i was taken heavy cut passes and it kept causing flex in the bar and thats why i could not get it right. plus when i was running the dti along the bar i wound make sure the plunger was half way so i think this would of been causing flex in the bar when measuring

the reason why i adjusted was because the headstock gear was slightly offset from the change wheels so i was not sure if this has had a knock before i got it (used) plus it bugged me so i have got them running inline now, im going to start a fresh but take multiple light cuts measure then adjust.

i have noticed aswell that the stand should have six rubber feet mine only has four so i need to address this re level it as best i can then take the cuts hopefully get it running true then adjust the tail stock according.

i do need some change wheels for it though i think i have read your thread you have a warco dont you? i have noticed aswell the the pully the motor belts run on the side of headstock wobbles it doesnt appear to be causing a problem but dont think i would of come from the factory like that.
 

jeff_g1137

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#5
Hi
The Lathe bed needs to be not twisted & more or less level, 6 feet, yes.
The lathe is not far out, if you level & take out any twist, I think you will be there. :encourage::encourage::encourage:
jeff
 

koikidder

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#6
Hi
The Lathe bed needs to be not twisted & more or less level, 6 feet, yes.
The lathe is not far out, if you level & take out any twist, I think you will be there. :encourage::encourage::encourage:
jeff
Hi Jeff I have used two bolts as feet they work perfect I do not have a engineer's level but used 6 normal spirit levels over the ways the carriage and they all say level

But do you reckon that with the lathe been one solid rigid casting there would be very limited flex regardless of levelness, would twist be more of an issue with a more heavier machine I hope so one less thing to worrie about LOL
 

jeff_g1137

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#7
Hi
Twist will come & go with time, the bed is not rigid, so set the lathe level.
Level across the bed, it does not have to be level, just the same.
Top & bottom of the bed, must be the same, but you need a good level.
There is a lot of videos on YouTube, on setting up a lathe, & on this site.
You would be better off with all the same feet, all rubber or all bolts, old ice pucks.

jeff

Ps
Only use one good level. lol
 
Last edited:

benmychree

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#8
The level that is suitable for machinery leveling is calibrated at .0005" per foot per graduation; any other type of level is a waste of time, even the .005" graduation, to say nothing of any other type of level.
 
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