Well, this dosen't look safe!

Some grinding processes are on sides such as thrust bearings and the wheels are fine.

We have a collection of these that we have picked up over the years at estate sales as people have no clue what they are for.

Get bits by the box so no need to sharpen many...too many other chores like figuring out where to put the stuff we drag home from said sales...;-)

The point is having a suitable Grider with minimal end play and good bearings so side loading works followed by having a suitable and correct wheel.

Best to have a dedicated machine so fixture once in sweet spot stays there.

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Have any of you watched an idiot grind anything on a grinder. I have seen so called mechanics and machinist , jam the piece in so hard it stops the wheel and do it from the side as well. I'm amazed some live , self taught hammer and chisel butcher's. The abuse a grinder gets is just criminal. Have you ever seen a lawnmower blade sharpener, made to rotate both directions, but if there not taught how to be used wheels are destroyed arbors bent motors burnt up. But I've only ever seen surface grinder wheels explode . I think the bonding agents are much stronger in the pedestal type machine wheels.
Now the sharpener in question. If you can put the amount of pressure it would take to break a wheel grinding a drill to sharpen then you need to be on a weight lifting team not a machinist. I own one of these and have it mounted to a 1"x 42" belt grinder, it's been used so often the platen needed to be replaced. At one time I owned and operated a sharpening service . Not for machine tooling but blades, saws , home , farm and garden. When the cheap throw away years started it was no longer worth the time to do sharpening. Circular saw blades up to 6" a big $1.00 each. handsaw filed and set for $5.00 , those were done by hand and took an hour or so. People thought I was robbing them too. Enough tangent if you use the tool as it's supposed to be you will never explode a good wheel on a grinder.
Don't ever be afraid to tell someone there in danger , it may save your hide and others. So really your right.
 
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Those things do get "trashed" here quite regularly by the higher-end machinists.

However I just got one recently, and it works great!
I got it after a bunch of investigation. (I'll post a link if I can find it to a review of Drill Doctor vs. this type of sharpener)
The Drill Doctor was just not in the budget, and I believe this will serve me well.

The only problem I have is that I moved the sharpener base before measuring/marking the location after I found the "sweet spot". Now I need to go thru the "calibration" process again.....

Putting on my flame suit!
-brino
c
Even if you Mark or drill a mounting hole , longer drills will change the sweet spot. I made several tapped holes to mount by length.Every shop I worked in it seemed I was singled out to do the off hand large diameter drills. I guess I had the knack, I also did different angles for different metals also thinned the web , even grinding in chip breakers .
 
I also have one of these sharpeners. As far as any lawsuit potential, the instructions that came with mine state that the tool should only be used with a wheel made to certain ANSI standards to withstand side loading. If the others who market this type of tool include that directive, I would guess they are off the hook if a user blows up a wheel that is usually found on a hobby level bench grinder. How many of us really go out of our way to find a proper tool for this task? I know I didn't. I looked this over and made a conscious choice to disregard what the directions say. I feel I am able to work within the abilities of the wheel. After all, it isn't going to blow up just by touching the side with a minimal amount of pressure on a very small contact area. I have probably hit the side of the wheel harder by mistake when doing other work than I will by sharpening a drill there on purpose.
 
I also have one of these sharpeners. As far as any lawsuit potential, the instructions that came with mine state that the tool should only be used with a wheel made to certain ANSI standards to withstand side loading. If the others who market this type of tool include that directive, I would guess they are off the hook if a user blows up a wheel that is usually found on a hobby level bench grinder. How many of us really go out of our way to find a proper tool for this task? I know I didn't. I looked this over and made a conscious choice to disregard what the directions say. I feel I am able to work within the abilities of the wheel. After all, it isn't going to blow up just by touching the side with a minimal amount of pressure on a very small contact area. I have probably hit the side of the wheel harder by mistake when doing other work than I will by sharpening a drill there on purpose.
That's interesting, I didn't know they had a "disclaimer". It's not so much the people even on this forum. Most of us know better and have knowledge of grinders. The point is that this is being sold to the masses. People that may not know any better and do something unintended like try to grind an angle on round stock or something. Just theorizing here. My point is that this is a setup for someone that does not know any better to get hurt and I hate to see anyone get hurt. Yea, for people like us, it's one thing but for a complete novice or some kid messing around in dads garage when he's not around, it's something completely different. I guess that's really my point.
 
This thread brings to mind the old adage about opinions and anal orifices.
These rigs have been in use longer than I've been breathin, and I'm definitely no puppy..... :grin big:
 
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Side loading a grinding wheel? Bad stuff can happen when you do this. These types of wheels are not designed to be side loaded and here is a tool that is designed to do just that! I found this when I was looking for a cheaper alternative to a drill doctor 750X
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I wonder if anyone had had a wheel shatter using this device? Looks like a lawsuit in the making to me.

We had one, actually two of these when I was an apprentice. A small one on a 6"wheel and a larger one on a 10"wheel. they were both permanently mounted and the grinders were dedicated for drill sharpening. Both devices were made in house, and worked perfectly, they also ran on the front face of the wheel not the side.

Both machines they ran on the right hand wheel, which was fairly fine, the left hand wheel was coarser and was for roughing a drill that was damaged.

Never saw a wheel shatter on these machines, in fact I think the only wheel I ever saw shatter was a brand new wheel just fitted. the person who fitted wisely stood to the side while running it up.
 
Any worries just fit a cup wheel or leave the standard wheel in place and make an extention to replace the nut and protrude thought the hole you make on the outside of the safty gaurd and mount a diamond facing disk,(the cheap ones for use on an angle grinder), and then you can sharpen drill bits and carbide tools. So little load that the Diamond will not dissolve into the iron. It's for sharpening not shapeing.
 
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