What Did You Buy Today?

Ianagos

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Most of what I make on the lathe is titanium so yes, for that I won't bother with HSS. I tried them on Ti didn't last long. I'm also not that experienced with grinding tool bits. The few HSS tools I had I made at the local community college on their grinder. My bench grinder at home sucks but I do have a somewhat decent belt grinder now. I keep telling myself I may try HSS again for aluminum but I guess I'm too lazy. Really I have no interest. I actually bid on a lot of NOS Latrobe blanks not too long ago but went for more than I wanted to pay. I have so many inserts that I have paid $1-$3 ea when there were crazy deals on ebay that I seriously may not have to buy inserts for my most used tools for the next 20+ yrs.


Sharpened carbide probably does pretty good but I’ve heard of honed hss doing pretty good it titanium.

I need to get more lathe tooling at some point. I got a manual lathe and tons of tooling for that. But bought a Mazak cnc and need to get it fully tooled up. What brand tool holders do you buy?
 

darkzero

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Sharpened carbide probably does pretty good but I’ve heard of honed hss doing pretty good it titanium.

I need to get more lathe tooling at some point. I got a manual lathe and tons of tooling for that. But bought a Mazak cnc and need to get it fully tooled up. What brand tool holders do you buy?
It's not necessarily only the performance of HSS as to why I choose not to use it. They do work on Ti but the life is not as long before needing to re-hone or sharpen. Being indexable plays a big part of it. Swap an insert & I can quickly be back to machining without loosing track. I also have tool offsets set for many of my tools & recorded for certain operations for some of the items I was making on a regular basis. Some of my form/grooving tools I rely on their shape being consistent in size for my recorded measurments. Indexable tools are much more convenient & quicker to use for me.

I haven't actually set tool offsets in my DRO yet but plan on it. I'm not a CNC guy. I'm also just a hobbyist so I may not always do things conventionally but my methods for keeping track of tooling & how I use them works for me.

The ones I just purchased there are pics above. A number of my tools are Dorian that I got from the local Travers but I use holders from various common name brands. Brands don't matter to much as long as they are good quality.
 

Ianagos

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It's not necessarily only the performance of HSS as to why I choose not to use it. They do work on Ti but the life is not as long before needing to re-hone or sharpen. Being indexable plays a big part of it. Swap an insert & I can quickly be back to machining without loosing track. I also have tool offsets set for many of my tools & recorded for certain operations for some of the items I was making on a regular basis. Some of my form/grooving tools I rely on their shape being consistent in size for my recorded measurments. Indexable tools are much more convenient & quicker to use for me.

I haven't actually set tool offsets in my DRO yet but plan on it. I'm not a CNC guy. I'm also just a hobbyist so I may not always do things conventionally but my methods for keeping track of tooling & how I use them works for me.

The ones I just purchased there are pics above. A number of my tools are Dorian that I got from the local Travers but I use holders from various common name brands. Brands don't matter to much as long as they are good quality.
Gotcha and I fully understand your using insert carbide tools. I also use them and in most cases carbide is better. I also have some hss ccmt inserts for my manual lathe. They are easily honed and left better finishes when I was turning a stainless barrel. My manual lathe also is slower rpms then carbide likes. I think max rpm is 1500 but around 800 it gets pretty loud so I don’t go over that much.

I have random holders and several cheap Chinese ones at the moment. They work but fit and finish is rough. Not sure I’d trust them in the cnc.

I also see the brand now that I looked a little closer. Thank you for the clarification though.
 

Aukai

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I would like to thank MrWhoopee for all the work he does for putting up what he finds for us online. I have one of these, and I saw this and remembered ball turning, so I got this for a 100 dollars. I'm sure SPI HSS is not a top tier name brand for boring bars, but good enough to practice with

 

darkzero

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Gotcha and I fully understand your using insert carbide tools. I also use them and in most cases carbide is better. I also have some hss ccmt inserts for my manual lathe. They are easily honed and left better finishes when I was turning a stainless barrel. My manual lathe also is slower rpms then carbide likes. I think max rpm is 1500 but around 800 it gets pretty loud so I don’t go over that much.

I have random holders and several cheap Chinese ones at the moment. They work but fit and finish is rough. Not sure I’d trust them in the cnc.

I also see the brand now that I looked a little closer. Thank you for the clarification though.
I may try HSS again someday, I haven't on my current lathe yet. Mainly I want to make some form tools & trepanning tools.

My lathe is about the same 1400 max speed on the pulleys I normally use. With a belt change it can go 1800 max but I rarely use that pulley position. Can’t make full use of carbide to it's potential on smaller diameters but what I use is satisfactory to me. I use mostly positive inserts & high positive ground inserts for finishing.

I think I own like one 1 or 2 China insert holders but rarely use them so I don't have much experience with them long term. I'm sure they work fine though. I just figured to buy better ones from the start as I heard some of the economy ones aren't hardened well & the insert seats can wear out. I bought mostly Dorian holders over the years, again cause I could get them locally & they weren't expensive, like $50 a piece. Price has gone up though but it's been some years since I last purchased one. The same Dorian holder I just bought from the same vendor now costs $70.
 

mikey

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Dorian makes some nice tools, no question about that. I sometimes wonder how good those Chinese tool holders are but never bought one to find out. Mine are Seco and Iscar and they are very good.
 

darkzero

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Thinking about it the only 2 China holders I own is a Shars parting/grooving tool (not blade) that uses GTL/N/R inserts. I rarely use it cause I don't like that insert style. Funny thing is it's red, like it looks like anodized red. I always thought steel couldn't be anodized.

The other is from Grizzly IIRC that uses round inserts. It's one of the cutters I use in my fly cutters with a RCGT insert. I've only used it less than a handful of times.

Since these rarely get used I think they should be ok as far as not wearing out quick. If not, I don't really care. :D

But now a days them China holders sure are cheap. I've seen them on ebay for like $15 w/ a pack of 10 inserts & shipping included! I won't try one. I have no need for anymore anyways.
 

mmcmdl

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Lanagos .Is the Mazak a slant bed ? I used strictly Valenite and Kennemetal holders and inserts in the Makino cnc . What size holders does you turret take ?
 

Ianagos

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Lanagos .Is the Mazak a slant bed ? I used strictly Valenite and Kennemetal holders and inserts in the Makino cnc . What size holders does you turret take ?
It is a slant bed. It’s a SQT-18ms not sure what size tool holders off the top of my head Ill have to figure that out. Does use vdi 40 holders so I can switch sizes aswell.
 

mmcmdl

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Hm...…...I may have some things for vdi mounts . Bar puller etc .
 

Z2V

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A couple weeks back I purchased a new set of Stevenson’s collet blocks. I went to use one for the first time the other day and realized I had ER-32 blocks to use with my ER-40 collets. A new set of ER-40 blocks arrived yesterday.
If anybody would like to take advantage of my mistake, shoot me a PM.
CA0C300B-BF8C-4501-AE84-76753BA84DE0.jpeg
 

darkzero

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NVD!
(New vise day!)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's a tip, sort of. :)

Keep the large piece of foam. I kept mine & is what I use to set my vise on when it's not on the mill table to protect the bottom. Provides a nice cushion too for when I flip the vise upside down to wipe the bottom surface before putting it back on the mill. Yeah maybe a bit bulky for that use but it works for me & it cost nothing.
 

DavidR8

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Here's a tip, sort of. :)

Keep the large piece of foam. I kept mine & is what I use to set my vise on when it's not on the mill table to protect the bottom. Provides a nice cushion too for when I flip the vise upside down to wipe the bottom surface before putting it back on the mill. Yeah maybe a bit bulky for that use but it works for me & it cost nothing.
Excellent tip Will!
 

Winegrower

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So the dividing head came today. Pontiac428 really called this right. It is quite well made...every surface of any importance for function or appearance is surface ground, or some technique that looks the same. It looks exactly like the pictures below. I recently used a friend’s Ellis dividing head, which is a well designed unit, but the import seems at least as good...plus has a tailstock and a few accessories. There is just a light oil on it, that wipes off easily.

I am well pleased with this purchase, especially at $239 w/ free shipping.


I could not resist the indexing dividing head, this one:
I hope the quality is reasonable.
It's due on Monday Mar. 2nd.
View attachment 314727
 

Bi11Hudson

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Not real sure what this contraption even is. But the price was low enough to get one to find out. It supposedly fits on the end of a motor shaft and has an ER-16 collet chuck. The shaft size is small, I guess because of the ER-16 end, 3/8"/10mm it looks like. I wouldn't trust it at any speed, the set screw will throw it way out of balance. But, to sit on the shelf to make some future unknown device, for a couple of bux, it looks like a keeper.
ER16Adapt.jpg
 

silverhawk

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Not real sure what this contraption even is. But the price was low enough to get one to find out. It supposedly fits on the end of a motor shaft and has an ER-16 collet chuck. The shaft size is small, I guess because of the ER-16 end, 3/8"/10mm it looks like. I wouldn't trust it at any speed, the set screw will throw it way out of balance. But, to sit on the shelf to make some future unknown device, for a couple of bux, it looks like a keeper.
View attachment 315024
I bought something similar (an er16 collet) for my really old wood lathe. The wood lathe was built in 1939, and runs fabulous. The spindle is a 3/4-16, but it is about that size. I think that is for a wood lathe. Id never use an er16 on a metal lathe (too small), but I've also been known to be wrong.

joe
 

Z2V

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Not hobby related but my wife surprised me with a new 27” iMac, 9th gen i5, 2 TB. A huge difference from the 14” laptop I’ve used for the last 12 yrs. I now have no excuse for not getting taxes done real soon. She made sure I got TurboTax before we returned home. What a great gal!!
8CA5067A-DED5-4070-90A7-3C6FD05BD2E6.jpeg
 

Bi11Hudson

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I bought something similar (an er16 collet) for my really old wood lathe. The wood lathe was built in 1939, and runs fabulous. The spindle is a 3/4-16, but it is about that size. I think that is for a wood lathe. Id never use an er16 on a metal lathe (too small), but I've also been known to be wrong.
joe
It is ostensibly for a metal/wood working motor using metal working collets. Maybe even a non-standard router. But the idea of spinning that thing that fast scares me. It can't be balanced at those speeds. BUT I also have, well Wife does now, a Craftsman from 1939. I didn't know what its' ancestry was when I bought it($35?), just a nice looking wood lathe cheap. When I remarried(3rd), Wife cleaned off the old paint and found the nameplate. Following up on the part number was quite a revelation. A freakin' antique~~~

The idea of using ER-16 collets on the wood working machines never occured to me. But it looks promising. For the price, it might behoove me to order a couple more. I bought a (used) ShopSmith for Wife a few years back. It uses a 5/8" nub for the main drive. An ER-25 holder is also available, with a 5/8 drive hole. The possibilities look limitless. Thanx very much for that!!

As an aside, much of my work is with models of 1/8":1ft. Well, a fuzz larger, H-O at 1:87.5. I do have large tooling but most of my tooling is for tiny stuff. A 1/2" fastener is huge, quite often used as the worm in a reduction gear. An #0-80 machine screw is mid sized. The ER-16s serve me well.

.
 

Shootymacshootface

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Got this off of the ebay yesterday. It turned out to be a machine tool wholesaler 2 towns over, less than 20 min away. I contacted them and picked it up. I saved over $90 in shipping which made this a true bargan. It is a Kurt D675 in pretty decent shape.
20200228_091935.jpg
20200228_091912.jpg
Now I have a new resource for finding new tools. They are a broker with locations in NJ and PA as well. Today they sold a Hardange CNC turning center for $3450 that my son and I were seriously considering. There will be others.
 

mmcmdl

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I got cornered in at work this morning . I had to order a " smart phone " for work over the computer . Some kind of Apple XR 11 thing . I kept telling them I would break it in a week , but they said who cares , the company buys them everyday . I told the wife and she just rolled her eyes ! :grin: But hey , I figure I can keep Will's comedy thread going for a full year or two trying to become tech savvy with this phone . :big grin:
 
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