What Did You Buy Today?

Downunder Bob

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The 1972 NOS tap and die set arrived today.
It’s fantastic!




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Don't know what NOS stands for, but that is a set from P&N Australia you can see each tap and die has it stamped on them. P&N has been synonymous for quality in Australia, for about 100 years. You may also come across Sutton branded tools, they are a partner brand and equally high quality, I hope you enjoy them.
 

mmcmdl

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Yep,
What Weldo said. Don't go in too deep!
No pipe taps Jeff ? There are gages for pipe tap depths which are +/- one thread . What I always do is grind a flat on either a fitting or a tap and use it as a depth gage . I have quite a few pipe tap and die sets and reamers at the house along with a ship load of pipe machine taps . Regular , extended reach , skip tooth etc . You'll see them soon below on a certain site .
 

jcp

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As a plumber, I cut 11 threads on pipe smaller than 2" and 9 threads on pipe 2" and larger. NPT threads that is.
Is this a typo? I’ve cut many many pipe threads in an oilfield machine shop but never this pitch. We did 11 1/2 and 8 pitch.


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DavidR8

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Don't know what NOS stands for, but that is a set from P&N Australia you can see each tap and die has it stamped on them. P&N has been synonymous for quality in Australia, for about 100 years. You may also come across Sutton branded tools, they are a partner brand and equally high quality, I hope you enjoy them.
NOS means New Old Stock.
It’s a brand new set, never been used.
It came packed with an Australian newspaper from 1972.
I love old tools so they totally fill my tool nerd needs :)


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silverhawk

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Is this a typo? I’ve cut many many pipe threads in an oilfield machine shop but never this pitch. We did 11 1/2 and 8 pitch.


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Actually, I think it is not the pitch he's talking about, just a fast rule about how deep to cut the threads.

joe
 

jcp

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Actually, I think it is not the pitch he's talking about, just a fast rule about how deep to cut the threads.

joe
Ah, yes....I see what he’s referring to now. If I pay enough attention, I’ll learn something everyday. Thanks for the heads up...


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Dhal22

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Is this a typo? I’ve cut many many pipe threads in an oilfield machine shop but never this pitch. We did 11 1/2 and 8 pitch.


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I don't know. I just use whatever RIdgid provides me, I cut
Actually, I think it is not the pitch he's talking about, just a fast rule about how deep to cut the threads.

joe

Correct, I turn on my awesome Ridgid 300 and thread until I get 9 or 11 threads. No idea on the thread pitch.
 

Downunder Bob

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NOS means New Old Stock.
It’s a brand new set, never been used.
It came packed with an Australian newspaper from 1972.
I love old tools so they totally fill my tool nerd needs :)


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Thanks David, those were the days. P&N and Sutton tools were the bees knees, and if you wanted real quality you went for Moore and Wright, which was why I was so pleased to pick up that micrometer set, Back in '61 when as an apprentice I bought my first 0-1' mic. it was Moore and Wright, and was calibrated in tenths of a thou. Of course I still have it. and use it quite a bit It had lain in my tool box for many years unused, until I finally bought my lathe, when I dug the mic out it was quite stiff, the oil had dried out, but a wash and lube, and it's as good as new. As smooth as silk.

I would love to have a good set of P&N taps and dies, but they are pretty pricey. I did buy a set of chinesium ones, just to get me started, and I have already replaced the popular sizes with good stuff, so I'll get there
 

Janderso

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I think every TIG welder should have a water cooled torch. I thought about buying one of those $325 E-bay coolers but I haven't got the huevos rancheros.
There has to be a difference between a $325 and a $1,250 cooler. You think?
One of these days.
 

Ianagos

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That welder looks nice. What do you guys recommend for a beginner looking to stick and tig. I have true 3 phase available. Do you think a used older machine would be good or should I look for something newer?
 

DavidR8

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Thanks David, those were the days. P&N and Sutton tools were the bees knees, and if you wanted real quality you went for Moore and Wright, which was why I was so pleased to pick up that micrometer set, Back in '61 when as an apprentice I bought my first 0-1' mic. it was Moore and Wright, and was calibrated in tenths of a thou. Of course I still have it. and use it quite a bit It had lain in my tool box for many years unused, until I finally bought my lathe, when I dug the mic out it was quite stiff, the oil had dried out, but a wash and lube, and it's as good as new. As smooth as silk.

I would love to have a good set of P&N taps and dies, but they are pretty pricey. I did buy a set of chinesium ones, just to get me started, and I have already replaced the popular sizes with good stuff, so I'll get there
Thanks Bob, I’m itching to try them out as I have a cheap set of dies now and well, they’re cheap and are basically useless.
Funny you mention Moore and Wright. I was given a set of M&W mics but they need some attention as the faces have some corrosion from improper storage.
I’d like to get them back up to snuff but I’ve no idea how.


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Downunder Bob

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Thanks Bob, I’m itching to try them out as I have a cheap set of dies now and well, they’re cheap and are basically useless.
Funny you mention Moore and Wright. I was given a set of M&W mics but they need some attention as the faces have some corrosion from improper storage.
I’d like to get them back up to snuff but I’ve no idea how.


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David, if the faces are badly corroded, I'm not sure how you could fix them. Being corroded I'm assuming they don't have carbide faces, so they are probably just hardened tool steel. if the corrosion is only light you can place a piece of wet and dry paper, between the faces and clamping very lightly draw the paper across the face, use some kero for lubricant, do one face first and then the other, starting with about 600 paper and as soon as you get rid of the corrosion go to a finer paper, then finer until you get a mirror like finish, on both anvils. Then give them a good clean up and reset the zero. There may be other ways, but that is the way I've seen it done.

I've also heard of lapping the threads if it has been badly abused, using brasso or similar fine metal polish, of course they have to be thoroughly cleaned before reassembly. I might even try this with one of my chinesium mic's it feels quite gritty even after a thorough clean and lube.
 
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NCjeeper

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I think every TIG welder should have a water cooled torch. I thought about buying one of those $325 E-bay coolers but I haven't got the huevos rancheros.
There has to be a difference between a $325 and a $1,250 cooler. You think?
One of these days.
Yeah. My air cooled torch gets so hot it nearly melts. Cant wait to use a water cooled one. I got this cooler for 229 and free shipping.
 

NCjeeper

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That welder looks nice. What do you guys recommend for a beginner looking to stick and tig. I have true 3 phase available. Do you think a used older machine would be good or should I look for something newer?
Do you want to weld aluminum also or just steels?
 

Ianagos

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Do you want to weld aluminum also or just steels?
I was hoping to be able to do both? I have a cheap mig welder and my brother has a harbor freight multi process welder but no tig stuff to hook up to it.

It’s been 5+ years since I’ve tig welded and even then it was rough. Shouldn’t any decent tig welder be able to do aluminum?

Does it have to do with ac vs dc and polarity?

I’ve just been building up my shop and this is on the list.
 

pontiac428

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@Ianagos, I run a 1960's era Miller Dialarc HF. It works all the time, every time. I can get parts for it and support from my LWS. A tried and true workhorse.

That said, I wish I could adjust the AC profile for more control in AC. I'd say that the old welder is right for 85% of my work, but when I need more cleaning or power from the phase, I just don't have the knobs to turn. I'd really like a good Dynasty or Syncrowave series to get that last 15% toward perfection. It's just a matter of time before I find the right deal on a newer Miller TIG and "upgrade", leaving the word in quotes because the system I've got is not a deal breaker by any means.
 
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