What Did You Buy Today?

I'm assuming that the tube in question is seamless. If not, I suggest you get some seamless tube.
I wouldn't be afraid to heat the tube end to make it more malleable.
I found this video also. The author makes a point of saying "don't use cheap tools".
I did watch that video. My first attempt was a tool very similar. Both seem to be unable to grip the tubing enough. I will heat it and see if that gives me enough. I might need to order some seamless now, too. Thanks!

joe
 
I did watch that video. My first attempt was a tool very similar. Both seem to be unable to grip the tubing enough. I will heat it and see if that gives me enough. I might need to order some seamless now, too. Thanks!

joe

It seems like these folks are in the business and have a helpline (Mon-Fri).
They mention that their stainless tube is "double annealed". That might be the solution for your problem.
 
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Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?

joe

A better flare tool, I could loan you one. I'm a plumber so have a couple of them.
 
I just ordered a thinner wall, seamless tubing. I will still heat it to see how that helps. If that doesn't work, I will hit my neighbor. I never thought about a plumber having better tools for flaring.

joe
 
(snip)
Last was a set of thread triangles from HHIP.
(snip)
More to follow as I learn how to use the triangles.

Bruce

Bruce et all,
It seems that my previous explanation of the use of triangles to measure threads was WRONG (reply 3327). It's not a constant, but rather you need a look-up table to determine the PD. My bad.
As I look at Bruce's pictures, maybe that's the table that the triangles are sitting on.
Here is a link to a thread that includes a .pdf for the table, if anyone needs it.
At any rate, don't alter the zero of your micrometer. Just zero it with spindle on anvil as normal. Measure the thread (over the triangles). Then refer to the table to interpret the PD.
 
Stainless does not need to be double flared if I remember correctly, and Rigid makes an awesome tool.
 
What's a fair price for that Criterion 202 in good shape with no bars?
Robert
 
Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?

joe

It's a little outside my knowledge base, but my brother gave me a tool specificly for the "double flare" fittings. I've never used it, it just sits on the JIC shelf if I ever mess with brake lines, which is what it's for.

The point here is that a double flare is not made with a common flaring tool such as is used for a Propane line. There is(are) a disk that attaches in place of the "cone", specific to tubing diameter. Once that disk makes a fold, it is then replaced with a "cone" to make another fold. That is the tool you need to find. It is not a "standard" flaring tool. You need the specific tool for the application.

The application for the tool I have is for brake lines on a 40s model Jeep. Brake lines are one of those things that you don't try to "second guess" the design specs or tooling. It fails when you need it the most, not when you have a "git by" backup. I have an old model ('68) C-30 dump truck with a split master cylinder and a non-functional Mercedes valve. I don't know the proper name for it, but it isolates the front and rear drum brakes. When that is rebuilt, I guess I'll learn how to use this thing properly.

.
 
What's a fair price for that Criterion 202 in good shape with no bars?
Robert

I paid $175 plus shipping.


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It's a little outside my knowledge base, but my brother gave me a tool specificly for the "double flare" fittings. I've never used it, it just sits on the JIC shelf if I ever mess with brake lines, which is what it's for.

The point here is that a double flare is not made with a common flaring tool such as is used for a Propane line. There is(are) a disk that attaches in place of the "cone", specific to tubing diameter. Once that disk makes a fold, it is then replaced with a "cone" to make another fold. That is the tool you need to find. It is not a "standard" flaring tool. You need the specific tool for the application.

The application for the tool I have is for brake lines on a 40s model Jeep. Brake lines are one of those things that you don't try to "second guess" the design specs or tooling. It fails when you need it the most, not when you have a "git by" backup. I have an old model ('68) C-30 dump truck with a split master cylinder and a non-functional Mercedes valve. I don't know the proper name for it, but it isolates the front and rear drum brakes. When that is rebuilt, I guess I'll learn how to use this thing properly.

.

Double flaring tool....


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