What did you make on your shaper?

[C-Bag]

Glad you liked CB, yes did dovetails on shaper.

Here's a link with a good description of the process, I ground my tool with more clearance than his, more like 50 degrees.

http://artfulbodger.net/docs/shaper/dovetail/index.html

You can do lots of things without a vise, just cramp stuff onto the table, you can fix a bar or angle section across the X or Z axis or both and clock it square, this will mean you can quickly reposition work easily and cramp it down again.

Good one, the details help nail the process in my mind. When watching Rudy do it the camera was kinda far away and he was so matter of fact I thought I got the idea. Until I went to cut the v in the little lantern vise and chickened out.

I know all about "cramping" in trying to figure out if the problem was the vise or the shaper I got info here from some helpful about toe clamps. So I used one of my cast angles as a backstop and used the toe clamp. For the first time I was able to make truly flat square cuts. So I knew it wasn't the shaper. Digging deeper into the vise I found the shwangle jaws. And on it goes.

 

[Dranreb]

I know all about "cramping"

Clamping / cramping = tomatoes / tomaitoes

 

[C-Bag]

In the case of the toe clamps I thought cramping was the perfect description. I got a whole selection of them for a fraction of what new ones cost off eBay.

This experiment of clamping directly to the table pointed out a need for tee nuts specific to the shaper table like U.doc made along with the jaws for the stock vise and now a shorter wider backstop to replace the angle block. No shortage of projects for the shaper here!

 

[WoodBee]

Question about shapers: I note that all of them seem to cut on the push. What's the reason for not making ones that cut on the pull instead?

Check out Stephan Gotteswinter s channel on YouTube. He has a Gack shaper that has a clapperbox for cutting on the push stroke AND one for cutting on the pull stroke. I think he prefers cutting on the pull stroke when possible. You also need to make sure the stroke is reversed (feed on the other end of the stroke) in addition to changing the clapperbox. He has made drawings of his clapperbox if anyone is interested in building one.
Peter