What drives a BS-0 drive dog?

WobblyHand said:
Were you able to actually use your BS-0 on centers? If so, what did you end up doing?
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I ended up using the 3-jaw on my test gears, and just kicked the can down the road. My test gears were just test gears.

My shop is still in an unheated space, and the weather finally shut me down. I started working on a plan that ends with me moving the shop inside my house, which will solve all my rust problems, and allow me to work any time of the year, but the weather shut this plan down too. I really don't want to move a 600 pound lathe in the snow, and the snow has been around forever this year.

I'll get there one of these days!
 
Thinking more about this, I think that as long as the tail of the dog that I have suggested fits nicely in the block fastened to the "H" driver, there is little need to make it adjustable.
 
Where in Va. is Christiansburg? My wife came from Derby Va. a mining camp not far from Bristol, Va.
 
benmychree said:
The dog tail would fit between two flat surfaces so that it could move in and out to avoid binding, but the two jaws need to fit snugly against the tail to avoid backlash. A turned ring would not seat well against round workpieces; better would be two rectangular bars with vee notches centered on their length and clamped together with bolts near their ends, the tail could be mounted to one of the bars in a tapped hole. For the clamping holes, one should be tapped, and the other clearance drilled. The tail of the dog need not be offset, if the block that fastens to the "H" is tall enough. I made such a clamp dog for the first Red E setup that I had, where the dog parts were missing, but may years later I found a new complete unit on E Bay, which I use nowadays.
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I don't understand your first sentence. In the drawing, the dog tail is round. If one has flat jaws what prevents the round piece from popping out especially if there is tilt? Won't the jaws tilt outward towards the dog tail? How is the round tail held in figure 2, in the link you provided?

Understand the rest, especially about the dog. Was hoping for something easier, but the two piece dog is ok. I'll have to come up with a way to do a reliable V.
 
dewbane said:
I ended up using the 3-jaw on my test gears, and just kicked the can down the road. My test gears were just test gears.

My shop is still in an unheated space, and the weather finally shut me down. I started working on a plan that ends with me moving the shop inside my house, which will solve all my rust problems, and allow me to work any time of the year, but the weather shut this plan down too. I really don't want to move a 600 pound lathe in the snow, and the snow has been around forever this year.

I'll get there one of these days!
Click to expand...
Was hoping you'd show me how it's done! No problem. I could cut some gears with the 3J as well, just to work out some of the basics. I do need to figure out this mandrel stuff to make real gears though.

My shop is in my basement and it's relatively cold at 55F. It's ok for short periods of time if I dress up. I need to wire in 220V so I can get a real heater in to make it more habitable. One more item to add that to the ever growing project list! Now that I think about it, I'm going to bump the wiring up in priority - too cold to enjoy working down there.
 
There would normally not be tilt, the dividing head would be swiveled upwards so that the center of the part would be inline with the center of the dividing head, and the footstock would also be raised and in alignment with the part centerline, although I do not know if the BS-0 footstock has that capability, and this would not be necessary for normal work, only work that is tapered in the cutting path. The main reason for the dog system is to avoid the binding that normally accompanies the use of driving dogs between centers when the setscrew on the "H" driver is tightened against the tail of the dog. The binding is avoided by having the opportunity for a small amount of float axially in the jaws of the driving block
 
WobblyHand said:
Was hoping you'd show me how it's done! No problem. I could cut some gears with the 3J as well, just to work out some of the basics. I do need to figure out this mandrel stuff to make real gears though.

My shop is in my basement and it's relatively cold at 55F. It's ok for short periods of time if I dress up. I need to wire in 220V so I can get a real heater in to make it more habitable. One more item to add that to the ever growing project list! Now that I think about it, I'm going to bump the wiring up in priority - too cold to enjoy working down there.
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Yes, cold really does take the fun out of shop work!
 
The BS-0 footstock is somewhat adjustable, although it seems to be a bit fiddly and prone to error. If I recall the point is set to the center of rotation of the head, (dimple in the side of the head) and one needs to raise the footstock so it's level as well.
 
Back to my jaw question, would a vee in the jaws be a help or a bad idea? Once I'm set up to do a vee, might as well do a bunch of them...
 
In their book "Practical Treatise on Milling and Milling Machines" they show a simple tool with a ring that slips over the dividing head center and attached to it is a straight edge blade that projects some distance and the top of footstock center is brought up to bear against it to bring it into close alignment with the headstock center. The book shows a picture, but nowhere in any of the catalogs is one illustrated for sale, so I suppose that one had to make it for themselves. I have never had much need for one, and never made one. Another thing that they show in one of the books is an extension handle that fits over the dividing head input sector handle that increases the cranking radius so that cranking is made easier when using the head for rotary milling, such as when making screw machine cams; likewise it does not appear in catalogs.
 
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