What finish for hardwood bench top?

[T. J.]

I have acquired a used hardwood butcher block-type bench top that I am using to build a new workbench. It has some old varnish or something on it that is chipped and worn. I'm in the process of removing that and reflattening the surface. I would like recommendations on what type of finish to put on it prior to use. I'm not sure what the wood is exactly, but I think it's maple.

 

[Ulma Doctor]

some folks like polyurethane coatings

some folks like natural products like (boiled) linseed oil, walnut oil, Danish Oil

i like the look of an oil finish myself,
but you may need to reapply oils from time to time.

clear epoxy is another possibility, but it can chip off if care is not taken.

good luck, however you wish to go!

 

[MontanaLon]

It really depends what you are going to use the bench for. If you expect lots of petroleum oils to get on the surface, like in a machine shop, a polyurethane is going to be your best bet. If you use an oil, linseed, Danish etc, any oil that hits the benchtop will soak in and discolor the surface and deeper. You will never get the oil stains out as they will become part of the finish.

When we rebuilt the mower shop where I work we used bowling lane finish on it. Oils wipe right off and it has lasted well.

 

[mike44]

I have acquired a used hardwood butcher block-type bench top that I am using to build a new workbench. It has some old varnish or something on it that is chipped and worn. I'm in the process of removing that and reflattening the surface. I would like recommendations on what type of finish to put on it prior to use. I'm not sure what the wood is exactly, but I think it's maple.

I used to build laminated benches, at least 200 of them .Seven were for wood workers and I sprayed de-waxed shellac for a sealer and protection. Varnish ,laquer, mineral oil etc could be added later by the customer. The lab benches I made were softwood benches mostly fir and had 3 coats of
1-1/2 lb cut shellac. My lathe benches are also laminated fir with no finish. Over the years the oils used machining have turned the bench a nice
patina resembling walnut finish. If your bench is truly a butcher block, you can tell several ways. The end grain is the top and the blocks are probably 6" deep at a minimum. I think that your bench is actually a laminated bench .The boards run the length of the top and may be only 1-1/2 / 3" thick.
Start with shellac, 3 coats brushed or sprayed will seal the top. If the bottom has also been cleaned up then finish the bottom too. If you did not clean the old finish from the bottom, do nothing to the bottom, it is already sealed. You can varnish over de-waxed shellac if you need added protection.
Personally I like the oiled finish from machining and would only oil the top with either mineral oil or motor oil wiped on.
mike

 

[bill70j]

It really depends what you are going to use the bench for. If you expect lots of petroleum oils to get on the surface, like in a machine shop, a polyurethane is going to be your best bet. If you use an oil, linseed, Danish etc, any oil that hits the benchtop will soak in and discolor the surface and deeper. You will never get the oil stains out as they will become part of the finish.

I agree with MontanaLon.

For a bench used primarily for machine shop-type work, I would recommend several coats a wipe-on varnish made up of 50% mineral spirits and 50% polyurethane (oil-based Varathane is a good choice), which you could apply with a rag. This way you will get pretty good penetration and won't have a thick film build-up.

For a wood shop, I would recommend a wipe-on danish oil, which is easy to refresh every year or so.

 

[whitmore]

I have acquired a used hardwood butcher block-type bench top that I am using to build a new workbench. ... I think it's maple.

Uses vary, but for a bench that takes clamps to hold wood (or benchtop tools) something with good friction is a must. Shellac
works. If it has to take exposure to greasy machine parts, oil finishes and oil paints are not recommended (they soften)
but epoxy and urethanes are good. Thick maple bench is ideal for woodwork (wield a chisel against a floppy chipboard
table once, and you will know why).

 

[KMoffett]

I'm a utilitarian (not the religion ) I use an 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard (Masonite?) on top of my wood benches. A few pin nails to hold flat. Beat up over time and easy to pull up the old top and replace.

Ken

 

[MontanaLon]

I forgot about the epoxy route. Had a friend who did some gunsmithing and his bench top was finished with Acra-Glas. There was definitely some thickness to the finish but nothing was getting through to the wood. He always joked that after Armageddon the roaches and rats could fight over the bench. I am sure there are better epoxies for the purpose out there, he just used what he had around.

 

[Nogoingback]

If you're interested in epoxy, a good choice are boatbuilders epoxy such as System 3 or West System. They have a
modulus of elasticity similar to wood, so they won't chip. Not particularly cheap stuff though. Companies
like TAP plastics also sell similar products, which I imagine are a bit cheaper.

 

[pontiac428]

Personally I like the oiled finish from machining and would only oil the top with either mineral oil or motor oil wiped on.
mike

I'm with you here. Patinas are lovely, like the calluses and scars of a lifetime of work.