What kind of steel do I need for making solid collets?

I've been machining some 4140HT the last several weeks (milling) and its all over the place. I may never get an instinctive feel for it. I actually wear out cutters in a measureable time period. That being said it cuts ok if speeds and feed are right. I tend to use HSM and chip thinning strategies as my main CNC machines are fast, but not super rigid. With the smallest cutters I have to be very careful as even a tiny mistake in a corner on load and engagement will snap them right off. It does work harden a little, but that only seems to be a problem with the smallest cutters taking the lightest finishing cuts. 1/16 and larger ball mills seem to be able to cut faster than you might think. Unfortunately my current project is some very detailed embossing die/mold assemblies. I had hoped to finish with some 1/64 ball mills, but I just can't seem to find a happy strategy for those. I get a couple hours at very low feeds and pretty high rpm out of 1/32 ball mills. I had to go with all altin coated, and flood coolant. Bare carbide would shatter and without flood even with altin coating I had to drop the surface speed so low it was out of the power band of my spindles. When I say flood I mean flood. Two nozzles with valves wide open pointed at the cut area from two different angles. I would absolutely not run mist. I don't think even the altin coating would help mitigate the thermal shock with mist. On my big mill I was able to take quite aggressive cuts with the bigger end mills. If you have any problems with your mill this is where it will show up though. A little binding, a little more backlash, etc. Anything isn't right and you will get chatter. It is hard, and the mill has to be able to apply very steady force to the work piece.

You know what. Ignore this whole post. As I read it, its obvious I still don't have a handle on 4140HT other than to say some cuts work well and look good. Usually either the big heavy aggressive ones with bigger cutters or the fast deep light ones with cutters big enough to handle it. Everything else seems to be a balancing act. Fine detail work can be a struggle, but some of my details are pretty small. That and none of this post applies to turning, but... I will be doing some turning with 4140QT before the current project is finished to make some spacers between the embossing plate and the pressure plate.
 
As stated before, pre-hardened 4140 or it's freer machining sibling, ETD-150
 
As stated before, pre-hardened 4140 or it's freer machining sibling, ETD-150

4140HT or 4140QT are prehardened. I'm not sure of the distinctions of the designations, but the hardness is in the same range. Domestically I see 4140HT sold everywhere (usually flat bar or plate), and 4140QT (usually round bar) sold at a few of the more complete metal suppliers. I'm not sure I have seen many offering 4140 designated as 4140PH, but I vaguely recall I might have seen it listed that way somewhere. Maybe I just think that because people say it that way on forums all the time.

The 4140HT (DCF) I have purchased as flat bar was actually sawn from master plate.
 
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Officially, PH stands for Precipitation Hardening (also referred to as Aging, or Age Hardening). 41XX is not in that category of material. People do use PH to mean "prehardened", but that's not actually the way to express it. Properly applied, PH would be seen in use with various stainless materials, 13-8, 15-5, 17-4 for instance. I wouldn't hesitate to make such tooling from 17-4 and age it to condition H900. That can (and should in most cases) be done post machining and can be up to Rc48.
 
Officially, PH stands for Precipitation Hardening (also referred to as Aging, or Age Hardening). 41XX is not in that category of material. People do use PH to mean "prehardened", but that's not actually the way to express it. Properly applied, PH would be seen in use with various stainless materials, 13-8, 15-5, 17-4 for instance. I wouldn't hesitate to make such tooling from 17-4 and age it to condition H900. That can (and should in most cases) be done post machining and can be up to Rc48.

On the subject of precipitation hardening, there are several stainless alloys that can be hardened in this manner, including 17-4, 17-7 and 15-5. The final properties (hardness, tensile strength etc.) are determined by temperature and soak time. Condition H900 indicates a 900 deg. F soak for one hour. The big advantage to these types of stainless is their high strength properties and the fact that they can be finish machined prior to heat treating. Common uses include torque shafts and prop shafts for boats.
Many aluminum alloys are also precipitation hardening. The most common are 6061, 2024 and 7075. The processes are similar though at lower temperatures. The main difference is that these alloys will actually "age" harden. From the solution treated (annealed) condition, they will naturally age harden over time at ambient temperatures. Anyone who has machined 6061 weldments is familiar with the gummy nature of the solution treated material. I've found that simply placing the piece in boiling water for an hour accelerates the aging process and markedly improves machinability.
 
Anyone who has machined 6061 weldments is familiar with the gummy nature of the solution treated material. I've found that simply placing the piece in boiling water for an hour accelerates the aging process and markedly improves machinability.

That's a really good bit of information. However, the most common filler for 6061 is 4043. Does that have similar aging properties to 6061? That being said, when I was learning to cut aluminum molds, and struggling with a mediocre machine I ruined a lot of bits and pieces of 6061. I would sometimes weld in the mistakes, machine it flat and start over. The welded bits always had a grainy looking finish.
 
That's a really good bit of information. However, the most common filler for 6061 is 4043. Does that have similar aging properties to 6061? That being said, when I was learning to cut aluminum molds, and struggling with a mediocre machine I ruined a lot of bits and pieces of 6061. I would sometimes weld in the mistakes, machine it flat and start over. The welded bits always had a grainy looking finish.

No, the 4043 filler does not harden like the 6061, so the actual weld will remain soft.
 
Okay guys, getting off topic here, let's back on track. Good stuff though.
 
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