What to look for in a used rotary table?

[nnam]

What are the size ranges that would be ok general purpose homeshop use?

What else besides the usual wear, tear, slack and precision?

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

I started with a 12" than 10" still a bit too heavy I would say 8 in. Is ideal

 

[MrWhoopee]

Any damage to a rotary table will be visible. It is highly unlikely one has been used enough to cause wear. A larger one obviously has more capacity. It also has more capacity to injure your back. It's a balancing act. Only you can determine the balance point.

 

[Mitch Alsup]

I have a 10" horizontal table--it is at the limit of what I can lift.
I am (sort of) looking for an 8" vertical table, with spindexing disks, and a 3 or 4-jaw chuck.

 

[richl]

I like the 6" size, but I also have a 8", if you put a chuck in it, you need to factor the extra size and weight. The size of your mill is also a consideration.

As for wear and tear visual gauges help give an indication of the life it has led. I would also make sure it turns freely over it's full range. Check the disengage mechanism to make sure that works.

Hth

 

[Technical Ted]

I've got a 10" and can handle it OK, but I'm in pretty good shape for my age (64 in 5 days). I wouldn't want any more unless I used my engine hoist or had a crane, lift table, etc..

Ted

 

[nnam]

Thanks for the advice about the weight. Although I don't do this often, but I have a patient lift, it is light and foldable. I use it more than my 2 ton engine lift.
I used to have a battery operated one, but gave away because I didn't have space.

They are still more cumbersome than my two arms. So weight is important factor.

 

[BROCKWOOD]

While weight is a very important factor for the sake of the back, I'll add that headspace is a factor that cannot be dealt with. If your rotary table robs too much space beneath your spindle: You're stuck & limited to short stock. Perhaps turning the Rotary on it's side & using an angle head is a solution. Only you know what can & cannot be done with your particular equipment / needs / budget.

 

[projectnut]

I started with a 12" than 10" still a bit too heavy I would say 8 in. Is ideal

I'm in the opposite camp. I currently have an 8" rotary table with both X and Y axis movements. Many times I find it too small. I am currently looking for a 12" or 15" model. Weight isn't a concern in that it will be lifted to a hydraulic cart with an overhead hoist, then slid onto the mill table.

When looking for a table make sure there is no play at the worm gear, or if there is play that it can be adjusted out. Also if it has the X and Y movements make sure there is a gib to adjust each of the ways, and the bearings are tight at the crank handles.

My current table is an Eron brand built sometime in the late 70's or early 80's. Below is one like it that was listed on eBay a while ago.

Mine spent it's life in a prototype shop where it was used on an almost daily basis. Between it's use there and another 15 years in my shop the acme rods wore the hole through the casting about .015 oversize. A few weeks ago I had to disassemble the table and bore the casting to insert bushings. All is tight now, and I expect it to last several more years. It wasn't that hard a job on an 8" table, but would have been far more difficult on a 15", 18" or larger model.

 

[mikey]

I have to ask how big is your Mill? That has a great deal to do with the size you get. The table has to be large enough to hold the work while still allowing enough room for your tooling.