What tooling to turn a case hardened Chevy axle

I see a PCD tip in the video above so there must be some merit to using it. Most people would use CBN because it handles much higher temperatures than diamond, but for an axle I think either one should be ok.
 
Tks for the suggestions
I will be out of town this weekend returning Monday to work on this proj
I will LYK the result
ed
 
I see a PCD tip in the video above so there must be some merit to using it. Most people would use CBN because it handles much higher temperatures than diamond, but for an axle I think either one should be ok.

An axle, even in the hard condition, is not a big deal. Most any carbide will cut it just fine. Sure, if you had quite a bit to do and wanted to optimize the cutting process you would investigate what type of tooling, speeds, feeds etc.

Regular carbide is really good stuff, very hard and also a pretty tough material. I've cut HSS in the hard (as in the flute portion of drill bits), I've bored the ID of bearing races - I didn't sweat the type of carbide. The work has to be held as rigidly as possible and edge of the insert dulled in just that job - but it was only one edge of the insert and got the job done.

I've never used PDC or CBN - I'm sure it is a good material.

Let us know how it works out. David
 
I've never heard of a car or truck axle being case hardened they should be through hardened to be tough more than hard. I have cut quite a few on my band saw using HSS blade, just use slow blade speed and keep the feed up a bit. I've also turned them with regular carbide, no problems, and even used HSS but you must keep the speed well down, it will cut.
 
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Hard turning inserts, find an insert that fits your holders and have at it, I do it several times per month on automotive driveline components, works a charm and gives an excellent finish. Try not to go very far below the case as soft steel will play hell on some insert material.
NO COOLANT and the chip should come off glowing red so do not leave anything in the pan that will catch fire easily such as POM or PE.

https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en...ning-in-different-materials/hard-part-turning


Yes they make CBN inserts that I used at my day job for at least 20 years to turn bearing journals for shafts. Of course it was a CNC lathe holding +_.00025


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I had to machine down some 1.5" 4340 aftermarket axles shafts recently the inners were .385 to long. I put them in the vise on the vertical mill and used a 1" solid carbide endmill. Made quick work of them.
 
I am resurrecting a 1966 MG Midget. Because I am swapping in a Toyota 3tc engine and 5 speed which has a little more horsepower and torque than the stock motor it is recommended that I slightly modify the axle shafts. The modification is called growlerizing the axle named after the man who popularized the modification on the midget forums. The axle shafts are made out of EN17 steel. I have no idea what type of steel this is. I was planning on using HSS.

More background info. Midget axle shafts are notorious for breaking at the inboard end. Especially the early ones made out of EN7 steel. The axle housings flex and over time this flex creates what is referred to as a hard spot where the outboard end of the female splines in the differential rest on the male splines on the axle. This typically occurs about 1.25" in from the inboard end of the axle. The modification is to turn down the axle starting 1" in from the inboard end to the root diameter of the splines for 4" and then taper the axle over the next 6" back to the original diameter. See sketch. Stock axle on top and growlerized axle on the bottom.

spridget axle.jpg
How should I go about doing this on my craftsman 12x36 lathe? I was planning on turning the axle between centers. I believe that the axles have center indents (wrong term??) on each end. I also have a 4 jaw chuck that could hold the outboard flange end and use a live center in the tail stock at the other end.
 
Why not a tool post grinder to break through the case hardening???
 
I have a tool post grinder that came with my lathe. Might need a new wheel or at a very minimum to be dressed. The thing is a beast. Has to weight 50 lbs or more. So that is a possibility.
 
Way off topic, but when I was much younger I had an MG Midget that I put a 2.0 liter fiat motor and 5 speed in. If I dumped the clutch and the wheel started to hop, It would break an axle like nothing. I got to where I could swap axles in half an hour on the side of the highway. I never heard of the mod you mentioned. Didn't have a lathe at the time anyway.
 
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