What tools to buy?

You maybe right for most cases, but not always Tony, I bought a CMM that had a inspection certificate as lapped AAA grade. I bought it 10 yrs or so at a 3M silent auction they have up here ever few months. It also came with a self leveling 3 point stand. The wires looked like a cob web so no one wanted it if the controls were shot. I bought it for the minimum bid of $75.00. Cost me more to have it moved then I paid for it. I know a couple of guys who have made surface plates from them too. If I saw another one at an auction and I needed a plate I would buy it if the price was right. It had the inserts and they were real handy checking some parts.
 
I got my Connelly book, it looks like it will be a hard read. They need more pictures! I work better with pictures!
 
I have been reading the Connelly book, made it to chapter 4, it is making sense and I am finding it to use common sense approach to what is required to become a competent scraper. I am a social but I also can be focused, so I am getting mixed signals whether I will be good at this or not. Only time will tell. Tim
 
I went through the posts... just wondering if there is a specific grade of carbide you are using? i.e. C2, C5... etc. Have you tried different ones when making your own scrapers?
 
Ginjee said:
I went through the posts... just wondering if there is a specific grade of carbide you are using? i.e. C2, C5... etc. Have you tried different ones when making your own scrapers?
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Several of the guys have bought carbide from Enco, I was just looking at the website and I think the bought. Once you silver soder the piece on you will need to grind the front to a 60 mm Radius and neg 5 deg. <==== tip and I also grind the 1/4 sides to get it shinny. Otherwise if the sides are not smooth they will leave small scratches in the scrape cut.





I buy the Carbide from Dapra or Sanvik and never pay much attention to the grade. Rich
 
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So do you resistance solder or use a small oxy/fuel torch to silver solder? Tim
 
I use a torch setup lots of flux really helps and being patent :-}
Don
 
Well I am getting an Anderson scraper, I need to get a few more carbide tips but it should be a good tool to start learning to scrape. Tim
 
astjp2 said:
Well I am getting an Anderson scraper, I need to get a few more carbide tips but it should be a good tool to start learning to scrape. Tim
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It is an old style and I would suggest you but the carbide tips and not waste your time with the HSS blades. grind the tip radius to a 60 mm radius . and hopefully you bought the HKA-15, narrow and long as this is the secret, long and flexible. I would extend the blade out as far as you can. Another issue with those blades is when the braze or silver solder them on the get a flux stuck to the sides of the carbide. To fix this you will need to lay to lay it carefully flat on the side of a lap or diamond wheel and shine it to a mirror finish. I would practice the angle with the lap turned off so you know the feel when flat. Be sure to use coolant or light oil in the blade to keep it cool. This is why I prefer a Glendo Accu-Finish 1 with a 600 grit wheel or a home made type like Bill, Mel and Tadd have shown in the other posts. A Baldor type double end grinder with a 300 grit diamond (3/4 or 1" wide face x 1/16 deep) works, but it heats the blade, so coolant is a must. Rich
I will see if I can attach a picture of a Dapra blade so you can see the radius.

2012-09-19_17-40-08_749.jpg
 
Well I am just starting out so a glendo is way over my budget. So it has a carbide tip, I will buy a few more tips so I can spend more time scraping than sharpening. So 60mm is about a 2.5" in American?
 
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