Where can I get these fuse links?

[Michaeljp86]

Does anyone know where I can get more fuse links like this, they are 2.1 amp.

 

[4GSR]

Replace with copper penny.

That's what they do in the Middle East.

That looks almost like a AB heater for a starter? Do you know what it is out of?

 

[Michaeljp86]

Replace with copper penny.

That's what they do in the Middle East.

That looks almost like a AB heater for a starter? Do you know what it is out of?

Theres a cap you screw off that says GE. There is one of these inside.

 

[4GSR]

OK,

I suspect it's a GE heater. They may be harder to find. Try e-Bay, if not find a electrial supply house in your neighbor hood that handles GE contactors.

They're not going to be cheap! Guessing around $10 apiece. Grainger maybe another source for them, too.

Ken

 

[Michaeljp86]

OK,

I suspect it's a GE heater. They may be harder to find. Try e-Bay, if not find a electrial supply house in your neighbor hood that handles GE contactors.

They're not going to be cheap! Guessing around $10 apiece. Grainger maybe another source for them, too.

Ken

$10 seem a lot for 2 pieces of copper soldered together but Id like to have a spare. My dad said hes seen them before. There is 2 electrical places I can stop at next week.

 

[4GSR]

Here's a link to a guide for selecting heaters

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...4tdgHO52UNr61q2GQ&sig2=-NqmkTrUdwJm3AEWobnziA

Here's a listing in Grainger for some sizes.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fNT31L5oRrx5NmPAA&sig2=AZ6e935cG7hmNh-BZhKG3w


Wow! my $10 guess is not even close!

 

[Michaeljp86]

Yikes, still none like I need. This one has a little springy are that goes under the flat spot and the round part slips on a copper rod. When it heats up the solder melts and the springy arm pulls it apart.

 

[twstoerzinger]

I think you are describing a replaceable element fuse. These are known as a UL Class H fuse.
The outer cartridge is a cylinder. Each end has a screw driver slot that allows you to remove one of the caps and pull out the replaceable fuse element.
They come in different sizes, but in the 2 amp range they are 9/16" dia x 2" long.
These things are getting pretty old. McMaster Carr still sells replaceable elements, but it looks like 5 amp is the lowest rating they have.

I would be inclined to replace the fuse with a modern version, like an RK5 style. RK5's fit into H type mountings.
You can buy a new RK5 fuse for about the same cost as the replaceable element in the type H, about $6.
Then, you don't have to try to get the element back in the housing without damaging the element.

First you need to know if the old fuse is "time delay" or not (also known as slow-blow).
There should be a number on the outer cartridge of the old fuse along with a trade-name such as "Super-Lag" or "Slo-Blo."
"Fast Acting" fuses protect electronics, lights and things that have no starting surge.
Motors require a "slow blow" fuse to allow a brief over current when the motor starts.
Cooper-Bussmann calls their motor rated fuse "Fusetron." The Bussmann number for an RK5 style, 250V, 2.0 amp would be FRN-R-2.

RK5 style fuses are commonly available at "home improvement" stores, hardware stores, and electric supply houses.
Take the old fuse housing with you as a reference when you go to buy. Be sure to buy a spare - saves a trip back to the store.
Terry S.

 

[4GSR]

Oops, I missed the part of the screw off cap.

Forget what I posted, then.

 

[Michaeljp86]

I dont see any slow blow or anything like that, just a number and GE and 550V 2.1 amp