Which mini-mill should I get?

PC maker, you asked about a chuck ,that's why the ER32 chuck was mentioned, the question changed from needing to order a chuck to collets.
we're all trying to help you as we were helped many times by others ,, may I respectfully suggest you familiarize yourself with all the names of basic parts in a milling machine and a metal lathe, what is a R8 spindle taper, or R8 arbor/chuck ,ER chucks,etc.here's a couple of links:
https://www.quora.com/What-is-meant-by-a-spindle-in-a-milling-machine
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mit-milling-machine.64956/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mit-lathe.64955/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/machinist-terms.67218/


Ok, guys. I bought the following items. I don't think it comes with a chuck. What else should I get? I'm buying the rest of the stuff from Amazon

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I think you'll be happier with an R8-ER32 chuck and a set of ER-32 collets. i.

A keyed chuck with an R8 arbor:
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An R8 arbor:
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R8/ER32 collet holder:
Don't buy this ,I only wanted to show the type of chuck/collet holder :
https://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-R8-ER...9813761&sr=8-1&keywords=r8+er32+collet+holder
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I'm afraid you'll find that the Morse Taper mounts are not set up to resist lateral movement, but might be subject to loosening when used in a milling procedure.

All the china machines that come with R8 for US market seem to also be made with Morse for euro market.

As you say R8 may be a better milling taper as I have experienced the occasional tight tool in the spindle but is very convenient as I can share tools with the lathe and drill press.

Stu
 
If the mill is advertised as r8 (looks like it is) you just need a collet set which you've already ordered. A collet is the metal sleeve or collar that holds your tool in the spindle. for example, assuming you have a 1/2 shank end mill and you want to use it in your mill, you would select your 1/2" r8 collet, insert the collet and end mill into the machine, tighten the drawbar, which pulls the collet into the machine which causes the collet to squeeze the shank of your bit. the outside diameter of an R8 collet does not change, but the inside diameter does which is why they come in a set.

You may be wondering, why not just use a drill chuck? the answer is rigidity and accuracy. a drill chuck holding that same 1/2 end mill will usually only have 3 contact points, and extend further away from your headstock, reducing the amount of lateral force you can apply to your end mill along with increased chances of the tool slipping, and it will have more T.I.R.

R8 is not the only option, but it is a standard on these small table top mills / mills with limited HP. ER collets and a ER to R8 adapter is worth researching, I used R8 for a long time before looking for alternatives and as Roy pointed out, it is fine when you're starting out.

I see. So, I don't need a chuck if I have a complete collet set, which is superior to chucks.

Which endmill set should I get from Amazon, guys?
 
Well for your end mills at least you should be using something designed for that use and R8 is a great place to start since it's the taper your mill is designed to use. If however you are doing to do drilling with your mill, you will find a drill chuck is still useful as they can accept very small diameters and infinity adjustable though the max size of shank.

R8 to ER as its been mentioned a few times is an excellent upgrade later on, however, I wouldn't bother on day 1.

You would be better off focusing on the equipment you will likely need eventually, like a parallel set (thin), a dial indicator, caliper, 1,2,3 blocks, maybe a small brush to clear chips, an oiler etc. before evaluating whether or not an ER setup is the right choice for you.

I'm not saying you should rush out and buy what I've listed but you will need additional tooling to successfully mill something and accomplish tasks like tramming your mill.

For end mills, HSS and if you feel like splurging get the tin coated ones, they will last longer but I would not go and buy carbide, they require higher feeds and speeds and until you have some practice I wouldn't go there.

I see. So, I don't need a chuck if I have a complete collet set, which is superior to chucks.

Which endmill set should I get from Amazon, guys?
 
Eventually, I want to mill out the top slide of my Glock 19 to be able to put a removable rmr red dot sight in. Gunsmiths charge an arm and a leg to do that.

I'm still not exactly sure what an R8 or ER is, but I want to get a drill chuck so I can still use my drill bits and so I can get rid of my drill press to free up much needed space.
 
R8 is a type of collet invented by Bridgeport. ER is also a type of collet, invented by the Swiss I think
Sure you want to get rid of your drill press? More machines is usually better :big grin:
Mark
 
Which endmill set should I get from Amazon, guys?


I also have a recently purchased PM25. I bought this set of endmills off of Amazon for starters. So far I'm happy with them but I think I'll be complementing them with some carbide endmills eventually. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YPHSJK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The end mill set above is available from Harbor Freight, a bit cheaper with the 20 or 25% off coupon. I keep a few of these sets around for utility uses. Good starter set, when you break one it's no big loss, they're cheap. :)

You still need a drill chuck, I personally prefer a keyless chuck, but a keyed chuck will work just fine.
 
I would think twice about getting rid of your drill press.

While a Mill/Drill can be used as a drill press.
I have found there are many times I don't want to bother the setup in my mill due to an unfinshed project and need to drill something.
The drill presss is also much easier and faster to setup for drill operation than my mill/drill and we have the identical machines.
(althought I don't know what your drill proess is) My drill press is a full size flor model. An old Delta 6x6. 6-Speeds, 6"-Quill travel.
 
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