Ebay. Check.
What is this "Make" of which you speak? I keep looking for designs etc. for stuff but either they cost more than I have or are way beyond my very meager skills. Can you point me in any direction for the "Make" part of your comment?
Karl
-
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Who made this lathe and where do I find the parts?
- Thread starter Truebane
- Start date
Ebay. Check.
What is this "Make" of which you speak? I keep looking for designs etc. for stuff but either they cost more than I have or are way beyond my very meager skills. Can you point me in any direction for the "Make" part of your comment?
Karl
T
Tom Griffin
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Unfortunately, if you want parts for that lathe, you'll either have to make them yourself or adapt parts form a different lathe. There were literally thousands of manufacturers of jewelers lathes like that and very few of them were around very long. The motor should be pretty easy, just use a sewing machine motor and build a wooden mount to hold it and tension the belt. Tool rests are quite common, so finding one to adapt shouldn't be too tough. The biggest challenge will likely be the collet system.
You are pretty much stuck with what you have as far as the finish is concerned. Those lathes were nickel plated and if you see rust, it means the plating is shot. You can remove the rust chemically, but the crappy plating will remain. I'm sure you can have it replated, but it would be cheaper just to buy a complete lathe in good condition. I'm leaning toward the paperweight suggestion.
Tom
You are pretty much stuck with what you have as far as the finish is concerned. Those lathes were nickel plated and if you see rust, it means the plating is shot. You can remove the rust chemically, but the crappy plating will remain. I'm sure you can have it replated, but it would be cheaper just to buy a complete lathe in good condition. I'm leaning toward the paperweight suggestion.
Tom
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2013
- Messages
- 321
Karl
I am not certain but it might be a Wolf Jahn, if it is, it is a German lathe. I bought one that looks just like some of your parts. The one I have has been abused and shows how people can be cruel to things they know nothing about. They pulled the tail stock center out and used it as a punch. Sad but I think it was worth the $49.00 I paid for it.
I am not certain but it might be a Wolf Jahn, if it is, it is a German lathe. I bought one that looks just like some of your parts. The one I have has been abused and shows how people can be cruel to things they know nothing about. They pulled the tail stock center out and used it as a punch. Sad but I think it was worth the $49.00 I paid for it.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2012
- Messages
- 2,677
One of our members has one. Or at least it looks very similar. Dean does watches and clocks.
We've talked about it. Please consider not messing with it until you know exactly how to get her operable.
I can't remember Deans HM user name.
I emailed him to encourage him to catch this thread.
Daryl
MN
We've talked about it. Please consider not messing with it until you know exactly how to get her operable.
I can't remember Deans HM user name.
I emailed him to encourage him to catch this thread.
Daryl
MN
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2013
- Messages
- 321
Karl
Have you found any info on your jeweler lathe? The finish is toast it is a very thin coat of chrome and when neglected, they will start to break down and the finish will start pitting and even peal. \
Here is a place that sell parts:
http://daveswatchparts.com/LatheTools.html
Scan down almost to the bottom to item #wt4746. This is the base that your lathe was made with not the one on your lathe. Tool at the top of the page you will see what your lathe could be worth. Both lathes have the tool post, they are called flip top because you can flip it out of your way when not needed.
Have you found any info on your jeweler lathe? The finish is toast it is a very thin coat of chrome and when neglected, they will start to break down and the finish will start pitting and even peal. \
Here is a place that sell parts:
http://daveswatchparts.com/LatheTools.html
Scan down almost to the bottom to item #wt4746. This is the base that your lathe was made with not the one on your lathe. Tool at the top of the page you will see what your lathe could be worth. Both lathes have the tool post, they are called flip top because you can flip it out of your way when not needed.
Karl,
As was mentioned earlier, the name should be stamped into the end of the bed and the headstock frame, look there to see if you can read it.
It appears to be an American Watchmakers Lathe "WW style" with the headstock and tailstock indexing on the outer "V" part of the bed, but other lathe manufacturers used this "WW style" also.
Typically these have an 8 mm collet chuck opening in the spindle, you can measure that to confirm.
As for restoring, the lathe was nickel plated when new, not chrome plated, and this is rather difficult to have done today, as most places stopped this process because of restrictive EPA regulations.
To clean it up you can take it all apart and soak it in a de-rusting solution like Evapo-Rust, or a dilute solution (2 tablespoons per gal.) of Rust Out and water Watch it every hour as it may start to turn dark black if left in too long. Then use a soft bristle SS wire brush to clean off the softened rust or #0000 steel wool.
If you want to polish it you can use 1200 - 6000 grit wet/dry paper to smooth out the castings and plating edges so they look smooth and them polish with Simichrome Polish or similar metal polish.
As for missing parts, ebay would be a source, otherwise, you can make them if you have access to another lathe.
That is the greatest feature of a lathe, it is a tool that can make itself.
These lathes are smooth operating and can be restored to turn very accurate parts if you have the patience and skill to work a hand graver or can find a cross slide to fit the lathe bed at a reasonable price.
If you have more questions, email me offline at: ziegedw@gmail.com
Dean Z.
As was mentioned earlier, the name should be stamped into the end of the bed and the headstock frame, look there to see if you can read it.
It appears to be an American Watchmakers Lathe "WW style" with the headstock and tailstock indexing on the outer "V" part of the bed, but other lathe manufacturers used this "WW style" also.
Typically these have an 8 mm collet chuck opening in the spindle, you can measure that to confirm.
As for restoring, the lathe was nickel plated when new, not chrome plated, and this is rather difficult to have done today, as most places stopped this process because of restrictive EPA regulations.
To clean it up you can take it all apart and soak it in a de-rusting solution like Evapo-Rust, or a dilute solution (2 tablespoons per gal.) of Rust Out and water Watch it every hour as it may start to turn dark black if left in too long. Then use a soft bristle SS wire brush to clean off the softened rust or #0000 steel wool.
If you want to polish it you can use 1200 - 6000 grit wet/dry paper to smooth out the castings and plating edges so they look smooth and them polish with Simichrome Polish or similar metal polish.
As for missing parts, ebay would be a source, otherwise, you can make them if you have access to another lathe.
That is the greatest feature of a lathe, it is a tool that can make itself.
These lathes are smooth operating and can be restored to turn very accurate parts if you have the patience and skill to work a hand graver or can find a cross slide to fit the lathe bed at a reasonable price.
If you have more questions, email me offline at: ziegedw@gmail.com
Dean Z.
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2012
- Messages
- 16
I'm certainly no expert, but it looks like my d-bed peerless. You should be able to tell by looking close on the tailstock end of the bed. Mine has the manufacturer name stamped.