Who made this mill?

[bluwolf]

My story is about the same as 12bolt's. Mine is a Jet circa 1983, made in Taiwan. I paid $400 for it about 4 years ago. It came with a bunch of tooling mostly unused, some of it still covered in cosmoline or whatever that stuff is that tooling comes in. I actually sold my X2 mini mill for $25 more and with less tooling.

Also, like 12 bolt, I added a DRO set up. I just used the igaging DROs because I didn't have the money for a more expensive set up. But he's right, it really does help a lot. The other thing I did was adapt a BP style power feed to the X axis. That has been wonderful. The ways were in excellent shape. Still had the scraping marks on all of the travel of all the axes.

Yours looks to be missing the drill press type downfeed handle on the right side unless it's sitting there somewhere in the coolant tray (which mine does not have). The casting on the handle that grips the shaft cracked on mine but it was easy to mill a replacement.

And that kinda looks like a lathe toolpost grinder sitting in the coolant tray too. Does that come with it?

Anyway, I really like mine. I'm not building space shuttle parts it but does everything I ask of it. It really has a nice work envelope if you don't have room for a full size BP. Mine, and I think most of them are 20" spindle to table, 17" in X, and 7" or a tad more in Y.

If you could get a little better price for it, and all the important bits are in decent shape I'd buy mine again in a heart beat, for even a bit more money.

Mike

 

[SEK_22Hornet]

I know that Grizzly sells a version (actually several versions) of this mill in both 6 x 26 and 8 x 30 sizes, in both Chinese and Taiwan versions. Wholesale Tool and HF sell 6 x 26 versions for about 2k new, for a current price comparison. I don't know if you use ebay or not, but it seems every time I look at a mill on ebay, it is in California and the prices seem to be fairly reasonable compared to here in the heartland. $1100 here is about what a good used round column mill drill goes for. If you like the style of that mill, you might look for a used Clausing -I think the models are 8520 and 8530 - I believe the major difference in the two is R8 vs MT# spindles. If you are where you can get a first hand look at one, the HF is the cheapest new version, especially if you find the 20% or 25% off coupons. None of the HF stores I've been to have any machinery around here.

http://www.harborfreight.com/vertical-milling-machine-40939.html

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...Milling+Machine&update_continue_shopping=true

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vertical-Mill/G3102

Take note that the features do vary a lot between the offerings - some have stands, some do not, some have oilers some don't, etc.

 

[12bolts]

If you decide to consider this mill, a few things to check for......
Crank the table to centre position, (x & y) and adjust the gibs for "just right", pull and push on the table sideways, there should be no discenable movement, but the table should be able to move easily. Then crank the table in each direction, if it gets harder to move the further you go then that shows you have some dovetail wear. How much is too much depends on what you want to be able to do with it. Same for the z axis, but start at the bottom, get it "just right" then crank up. You should feel it get free-er if its worn.
The head can be tilted, its held locked by 3 recessed nuts at the spindle end and 2 at the motor end. Its all kept together and parallel by the substantial cast belt guard base. Check that it hasnt been cracked due to someone trying to tilt the head without loosening ALL the nuts.
If it has an oiler, check the tube running up to the spindle bearings. They get cut/blocked/crimped easily. They also dont have a NRV, so the oil drains back. If you dont over oil the sliding ways down low, you never pump enough up to the spindle bearings to get then lubed. Release the drive belt and spin the motor by hand, and the spindle to check the bearings.
The x axis leadscrew nut on mine is cast iron and cracked, (due to over zealous adjustment) it still works but backlash is high. The y axis nut is not adjustable. They have bearings on the leadscrews but you may find that adding shims are necessary to reduce backlash.
There should be a clutch knob to the left of the spindle head, (just behind the fine downfeed handle for the quill). Loosen this and you can use the hand lever on the right of the spindle head to pull the quill down. Check that its free over its range and the spring return works. Re-engage the clutch and wind the quill up and down, checking for tight spots in the worm drive.
If I think of anything else i'l be back

Cheers Phil

 

[Ben Chifley]

Bought a complete but rather tatty Herless version of one of these mills recently to restore. They appear to get re-badged as Enco, Grizzly, Hafco, Herless, Hercus Husky, Jet, Myford, Warco, etc. Several different derivations, mainly around table size plus travels. Earlier ones seem to have tall cast bases and later ones sit on various fabricated stands or cabinets. Have posted a picture of a manufacturers nameplate on a Herless version that is advertised for sale on the web which says it is a Kao Feng from Taiwan.
cheers - Ron