[How do I?] wire forward-reverse switch

again the red handle on top, left side 1, 3, and 5, right side 2, 4, and 6

handle
1 - 2
3 - 4
5 - 6

230 vac line power goes switch #2 and #6
switch #1 goes to motor P1
switch #5 goes to motor # 4
switch #4 goes to motor #5
switch #3 goes to motor #8
motor P2 is taped off
motor #2 and #3 are connected together.

if rotation is not correct, shut power off and switch motor wires to
switch #3 to motor #5
switch #4 to motor #8
 
Buffalo: your connection for 230v is overlooking the fact that the factory intended the start leg to only see 115v. If you look at Calixt0's motor nameplate you will
see that the start leg is supposed to be connected across only one of the series connected run windings. I've seen this on most dual voltage single phase motors. Your connection puts the start leg across the full 230v.
Yes the motor may start and run but it puts twice the applied voltage on the start cap and more stress on the start switch. Not a big deal if the cap is rated 330 v or higher but I've seen OEM caps that were only 165 vac and even some that were 125 vac
Mark S.
 
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I don't know Mark, that's how Baldor and Marathon, showed us how to do it. Might be best if I just stay out of it
 
Buffalo: I'd be surprised if it isn't the same for most motors out there-? It's probably a way for the factory to save a little money on the capacitor...
Calixt0: Breaking both power legs when the drum switch is in the off position is desirable for the 230v case since you have two hot leads instead of
the 115v case where you have one hot lead and one cold (neutral) lead.
Mark
 
I just to talked to Marathon, they said, the way I was doing it will work, BUT IS NOT the preferred method, it can cause problems on certain newer style motors. It was the standard way to do it about 25-30 years ago, but the method outlined by Mark, is now the preferred method, because it works regardless of motor age.

As I've said before, you learn something new everyday, my 40 yr old method, current at the time, is now out of date (apparently for some time). To Mark and other following this thread, sorry to run you around the rabbit hole, sometimes it is necessary to shut up and listen.
 
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Buffalo.. thanks for your time and research.. Mark.. thanks so much. you both have helped me get a handle on this when I was so lost.. thank you both..

Shaun

looking forward to more interaction with you both!
 
Sure man that's what we are here for, help each other and make fun when we F### up! LOL
Mark S
Buffalo: No problemo
"I pass on good ideas, I don't pass judgement"
 
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funny thing is I looked today and found a second switch hidden.. it was set up to run in both directions but with 2 dtdp switchs.. I will eventually get there with a drum switch and change it from 115 to 230 volt set up. all in time!
 
VICTORY AT LAST!!!!!!

It's been a long time since I started this post, and there have been countless interruptions around here - not to mention my apparently latent inability to differentiate between a wiring diagram and spaghetti - but FINALLY my good friend, Andy, and I were able to get in my shop at the same time and look at the drum switch on my machine.

He looks at it says, "Oh, that's easy." (If he wasn't 20 years younger and two times bigger than me, I could've smacked him.) He proceeded to draw out a diagram while pointing to MY wires and MY drum switch, and clearly describing how the electricity would flow from 'OFF' to 'FORWARD' to 'REVERSE'. No surprise - it worked! Big surprise - I generally understand it!

Thanks to all who gave such easily discernible information on this subject. Too bad I'm so challenged in grasping it.

In any event, I now have a very nice Kin Shin 'Jet-1024-look-alike' lathe that runs in both forward and reverse. That makes me a happy camper.

Regards, and thanks again to all.
 
Don't feel too bad about not "getting it" I feel the same way around computer code/arduino- very hard to learn at my age
Glad it's working:D
Mark
 
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