Hard to tell for sure from the picture, but the contacts on the back side of the terminals look like they are quite pitted from arcing. If that is the case I would consider getting a new switch. If they are just dirty you could polish them up and re-tin them.
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Wiring a harbor fright single phase reversible motor w/ a vintage drum switch
- Thread starter makeparts
- Start date
I did not think they were very pitted at all, when I looked at it - mainly just wear from rubbing, and perhaps oxidation or something... But I don't really know what significant pitting looks like, or even what a lot of wear, vs. a little wear, looks like. I have somebody local I can ask, as another data point.
Are those contacts replaceable? Again, Im not totally sure what Im looking at, but the switches that have come up in recent searches as current year replacements are many hundreds of dollars.
Are those contacts replaceable? Again, Im not totally sure what Im looking at, but the switches that have come up in recent searches as current year replacements are many hundreds of dollars.
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 11,242
Here's one possible way to connect it:
I didn't add the A,B and C labels- I'm sure you can visualize
I didn't add the A,B and C labels- I'm sure you can visualize
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 11,242
The blue and black wires at the motor connection block will need to be extended to reach the switch of course
It looks like the brown and white correspond to U and V (although the factory picture looks wrong- par for HF)
M
It looks like the brown and white correspond to U and V (although the factory picture looks wrong- par for HF)
M
I'm always confused by these type of drawings because the actual contacts are not ever shown. It was the same with my Grizzly. Here is the stock F / R switch as seen in the Grizzly schematic for mine.
It had melted, so I had to repair it just to know which contacts did what. The closed contacts for CCW & for CW are listed below the switch. Like you, I wanted something more robust. My modified GE SB1 does it for me. Of course, I included the contacts on my drawing. Hope this helps.
It had melted, so I had to repair it just to know which contacts did what. The closed contacts for CCW & for CW are listed below the switch. Like you, I wanted something more robust. My modified GE SB1 does it for me. Of course, I included the contacts on my drawing. Hope this helps.