Wiring Barrel Switch Enco 110-0818

Chrisgr: Still need some more info: In post #3 you should not be getting a steady 4 ohms reading on 5 and 6 if the capacitor is good. A puzzle.
Secondly: Are there 2 pairs of "C" terminals (4 terminals total) or just one pair?

If we can solve the puzzle of the 5 and 6 wires I think I can do a sketch for you, I just want to make sure your start cap is ok first. If the 5 wire has the capacitor in series then you should see a low ohms reading which climbs toward infinity. Trace out the motor wires and make sure you are measuring after the cap and not before it. The reading you got in post #3 looks like just the winding itself without the cap in series.

There is an error on the diagram of the new barrel switch- it shows A and B connected together. A factory mistake. Disregarding that, I see how it works.
They neglected to show which pairs of internal contacts close in Forward and Reverse, but it can only work one way and make any sense: A and B get swapped, for reversing. C would be used to cut power to the whole motor. I'll do a sketch.

To answer your question in post #9- yes either the start winding or the run winding(s) can be swapped to reverse direction. Swapping the start winding usually puts less stress on the switch-less current
U and V are usually the run windings- Z is the start one
 
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Mark, the capacitor is an external one (not in motor), and i disconnected it before testing, so the ohms are constant on that circuit.
The original switch is pictures below, you should be able see all the jumpers. I could not test continuity on this old switch, it is trashed.

These might not be visible: Jumpers S - V, R-5

Thanks again!
 

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OK understood. Did the motor work for a while before the switch fell apart?
Just to verify:
wires 1,4 joined at switch (white and black)
wires 2,3 joined at switch ( red and blue)
This is an unusual arrangement, just making sure that's the factory hookup for the two run windings.

On the new switch, how many "C" terminals? 2 or 4? I need to know
How was the capacitor originally connected? Was it not in series with the yellow wire #5 ?
 
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Here's one possible way to connect it:.---- There are probably several ways to do it with the switch you have
Edit: Check post 16, it's better than this one
enco0818.jpeg
 
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Here's one possible way to connect it:.---- There are probably several ways to do it with the switch you have
View attachment 341710
Mark, so grateful for the drawing. Yes, the motor worked fine in fwd and rev before the switch died. There are four "c" terminals total, with each pair in continuity while the switch is either in fwd or rev respectively, no continuity in off. The capacitor is wired between the switch and the motor, exactly like you have it in the drawing.
Thanks again, i will hook it up today!

CG
 
Chris: Here is an improved version- should make the switch last longer-doubles up on the "C" contacts
Also, you might want to verify your power cord/plug: Narrow prong is black (hot) and wide prong is red (neutral)
Normally in the USA neutral is white but on import machines they sometimes do weird sh%t :cupcake:
You can swap motor wires 5 and 6 if necessary to invert the switch handle position
You can also shuffle wires to make things fit better: Instead of 3 wires on switch terminal 8 you could put two of them on 8 and one on 6 since they are jumpered together
Enco0818R2.jpeg
 
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