[How do I?] Wiring Craftsman lathe for forward and reverse

Hi Kit,

I take it that you don't have a multimeter ?
I've looked at the picture of the switch you posted, are those six connections, ignoring the earth one, all there are ?
 
Kit: The switch you have will work fine; it's the motor that will require some detective work. You need to locate the two ends of the start leg. One end is probably brought out (one of the blue wires I think, from the cap) the other end may be internal and might be covered with insulation or tape, or plugged into the back side of the terminal board. You might be able to use your ohmmeter to locate the ends. When you do, then you add extension wires over to your drum switch; I can post a diagram.
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First step would be to pull off the blue wire from the cap and use the meter to see if it's the same as one of the blue wires that comes out to the terminal board. Then we can go from there. What type of meter do you have? Analog type (with a needle) or digital?
M
 
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After looking at the documents posted above, this is my best guess at the internals of that motor. The start winding, cap and switch will be in series. The actual order shown for the start circuit may not be correct but it shouldn't make any difference as far as external electrical connections. Note the brown wire bypasses the heater part of the thermal overload, this allows that same overload to be used for both 115V and 230V. When used at 115V the current from only one run winding and the start winding go through the heater.

CMAN_113_19656_internals.png
 
Hi Kit,

I take it that you don't have a multimeter ?
I've looked at the picture of the switch you posted, are those six connections, ignoring the earth one, all there are ?

I do have a multimeter. I count 10 connections including the ground. Three on each side, three in the middle bank and the ground.
 
First step would be to pull off the blue wire from the cap and use the meter to see if it's the same as one of the blue wires that comes out to the terminal board. Then we can go from there. What type of meter do you have? Analog type (with a needle) or digital?
M
Mine is a cheap digital from Harbor Freight. Sorry to take so long to answer, I'm at work, usually can only work on this in the evenings.
 
After looking at the documents posted above, this is my best guess at the internals of that motor. The start winding, cap and switch will be in series. The actual order shown for the start circuit may not be correct but it shouldn't make any difference as far as external electrical connections. Note the brown wire bypasses the heater part of the thermal overload, this allows that same overload to be used for both 115V and 230V. When used at 115V the current from only one run winding and the start winding go through the heater.

View attachment 275020
Feeling dumb here, I don't know what this means.
 
Feeling dumb here, I don't know what this means.

Well mostly it means that you should not need to take apart the motor to make it reverse! I believe all of the connections you need are already available. I also think it means that we have almost enough information to hook it up. What we still need is more information on the reversing switch you have.

Is there a model number or even better maybe a connection diagram on the inside cover of the reversing switch your have?
 
Hi Clueless, it looks like the switch is fairly self-evident, I see two pairs with crossover wires already installed. Those would be the reversing contacts. A couple jumpers would need to be added.
Kit: If Clueless is correct about the blue wires being the start leg, when you connect your meter (on ohms) to them you should see a resistance change from low to high. If you see this, then reverse your test leads; you should see it again (low to high). If you see a steady reading or no reading (infinity) then you will most likely need to open the motor up
M
ps disconnect the power when doing these tests- be safe
 
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