Wiring for Huanyang 2.2 VFD Router

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Vic100

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Hello every one,
I am new to the site and electronics and need some help with wiring my Huanyang VFD router to my CNC machine. I am getting conflicting information on the net so I want to verify the wiring with some one who has done it before.
What I would like to know is as follows:
  • There are 3 Pins on the router to use. The problem is they don’t tell you what North American color code wires to put into the pins
  • Pin 1 = I think is black
  • Pin 2 = I think is red
  • Pin 3 = Not sure what it is. May be the white wire
  • Please confirm or correct as needed.

  • Connecting to the speed controller (PWM) from the router. They (Huanyang) suggest you use U, V, and W, on the PWM. Same problem, what colors to these junctions?
  • U = I think is the black from the router
  • V = I think is the red from the router
  • W = Not sure what to use
  • Please again confirm or correct.

  • Connecting the PWM to 220 V power supply. They again tell you to use R, S, and T, connectors.
  • R = I think is black
  • S = I think is red
  • On the web (one Place, tells you not to use the White wire in T but to connect it to ground in the PWM ground and leave T empty.
  • Again, please confirm or correct.

  • All green wires I think are to be connected to common ground on the casing of the box
  • Again, please confirm or correct.

  • The last think is the water pump. It is 220V and they don’t explain if you need to put it into the water or have it external. I don’t want to put 220 V into water unless it is designed to be there
  • Again, please confirm or correct.

  • Really need the help, don’t want to blow things up as other have or myself,
  • Vic100
 
Can you link us to the manual for your VFD?

The motor side is 3 phase, colors are irrelevant. Connect the three phases, run the motor and if it turns the wrong way, swap any two wires.

The 220V input likely doesn't use the white (neutral) wire. My VFD manual had a note saying that. The two hot lines, black/red, go to the inputs, ground is green or bare. Neutral is only used if the device needs 120V, and VFDs generally do not. Just cap it with a wire nut.

The pump is likely a submersible unit designed to be in the water. I can't say for sure without more information though. Pumps are made both ways and some can work either way.
 
First don't be too hung up on the wire insulation color. Inside the insulation is copper so copper colored.

Pin 1,2,3 on the router motor should be connected to should be connected to U, V, W on the VFD. If the router runs backwards, then switch any two wires. If you only have 3 pins on the router, then you have a problem; There is no ground.

R, S, T are the input to the VFD, for single phase use, connect to R, and S, connect nothing to T. Normally R and S would normally be connected to black & red. White is normally neutral, and Ground is green. Do Not connect the white wire to ground. This assumes that your shop is wired per normal practices. If in doubt, contact a qualified electrician.
 
JimDawson said:
First don't be too hung up on the wire insulation color. Inside the insulation is copper so copper colored.

Pin 1,2,3 on the router motor should be connected to should be connected to U, V, W on the VFD. If the router runs backwards, then switch any two wires. If you only have 3 pins on the router, then you have a problem; There is no ground.

R, S, T are the input to the VFD, for single phase use, connect to R, and S, connect nothing to T. Normally R and S would normally be connected to black & red. White is normally neutral, and Ground is green. Do Not connect the white wire to ground. This assumes that your shop is wired per normal practices. If in doubt, contact a qualified electrician.
Click to expand...
 
I found this after I wrote the email on the net. The only thing I don't understand is that they tell you to use the two 220 V lines for the T and R connectors. Is this the two 120 V lines of the 220V line (Black and red). The rest I am OK with now. Thanks to all for the help. See www.hy-electrical.com/download3.htm The spindle download has the video "how to wire the router"
 
Vic100 said:
Is this the two 120 V lines of the 220V line (Black and red).
Click to expand...

Yes.

It's clearly stated in the manual: ''If the single phase source meets two willfully'' o_O See, it's perfectly clear :grin:
 
Gentlemen & Ladies if there are any out there,
I like the last reply, it has a sense of humor. Perhaps you can help with this; I was thinking of using the cnc machine to make gears for my telescope to make it self guiding. The gears would be in brass, would this work or do you have to go to traditional way of doing it.
Happy New Year to All Vic100
 
It's pretty hard to cut gear teeth with a round cutter (end mill), almost impossible. What is really required is an involute gear cutter, which can be run on an arbor in a vertical spindle. But a router motor cannot turn slow enough to run one, you really need a milling machine. You also need some kind of a rotary axis device to be able to index the gear blank to generate the tooth spacing. The most logical device for this on a CNC machine would be a 4th axis.

If you don't have or have access to the needed machine then buying gears would be the best option. I have seen some large wooden gears cut with a router, but the tooth spacing is quite large.
 
I used to have a LX200 12" SCT... before that, a Newt that I did convert to Eq w/ tracking. Meade use to sell a quick-kit w/ a motor and gears for sidreal motion. (so much better than altAz. ) You can buy the kits and gears already setup for proper motion. I recall seeing them but don't ask me to find it again..... what's the light-bucket you run?
 
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