Wiring help needed

No, 115V only
There was a wiring diagram on another forum that I tried. 115V to to 2/6, unplug start windings(red/black) from terminal board and extend out to drum 3/4, make up a set of wires that goes from drum 1/5 back to where start windings were plugged on terminal board.
This setup ran the motor both ways but got hot after a couple minutes of running
Then I tried running the 1/5 wires back to the terminal posts where 115V would normally connect with a cord. This resulted in smoke
 
Actual smoke? Did the wall breaker trip?
I suspect your red and black wires don't represent the start leg but only the start winding which could explain the problems you are having
We can do some tests. Some motors are more difficult to reverse due to the thermal protector wiring and "hidden connections" behind the terminal board
Mark
ps what is the model number of the motor?
pss do you have a multimeter of some kind?
 
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Actual smoke? Did the wall breaker trip?
I suspect your red and black wires don't represent the start leg but only the start winding which could explain the problems you are having
We can do some tests. Some motors are more difficult to reverse due to the thermal protector wiring and "hidden connections" behind the terminal board
Mark
ps what is the model number of the motor?
pss do you have a multimeter of some kind?
It’s a Marathon
Model RQB48S17D2109K J
Catalog No B208
Yes, actual smoke. Unplugged it fast so no breaker trip. I do have a multimeter
 
OK. First do a continuity test on the red and black wires, see if you have a steady low ohms reading (start winding) or a low reading that climbs to infinity (start leg). Put the motor back to stock config and verify operation, no serious damage
I'll check the Marathon site for internal motor wiring info, if there is any
 
I assume you want the drum switch to control power on/off and direction. Would you be adverse to adding a second switch for power and use the drum for direction? That would be the easy way to go
 
I assume you want the drum switch to control power on/off and direction. Would you be adverse to adding a second switch for power and use the drum for direction? That would be the easy way to go
I get a steady 4.6 ohms between red black on a digital meter. Motor runs cool and reverses with red/black switch with stock power cord wiring.
I could do a second switch as I still have the original on/off toggle on the lathe if that would be easier
 
I get a steady 4.6 ohms between red black on a digital meter. Motor runs cool and reverses with red/black switch with stock power cord wiring.
I could do a second switch as I still have the original on/off toggle on the lathe if that would be easier
I noticed on the wiring diagram for the motor it looks like the thermal overload is connected to the run and start windings. Is this normal? Could that be an issue? I thought the thermal was usually connected to the run windings.
 
Often the thermal switch IS feeding both the run and start circuits. Is there a diagram you haven't posted yet?
My assumption looks to be correct: the red and black wires are only the start winding not the entire start leg.
So you may have to disassemble the motor to figure out how the start leg is configured and the thermal protector wiring. It can be a pain.
My advice: use the second switch for power and the drum for direction only:
Extend the red and black wires and connect them to drum switch 3 and 4. Connect drum switch 1 and 5 back to the motor terminals where red and black came from. Drum 2 and 6 not connected. Connect your second switch in series with the hot line wire to the motor. Done.
 
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You could do it with a different drum switch. If you used a 3 phase drum switch you can control power and direction without opening up the motor.
 
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