X2 CNC Conversion

it sounds like you have the motors tuned wrong if you send me a copy of your "mach3mill.xml' file in the mach3 directory i will check your settings
i also need to know what you set the drivers to for microstepping, amps, motor sizes and power supply voltage
it is easier than going step by step in here typing
steve
 
Thanks, Steve. I think it'll have to wait until at least tomorrow. I picked up some kind of bug yesterday in a very old dust-filled attic full of dead mice and wood-chip insulation. Feel like I got pulled through a hedge backwards.
 
hi hawkeye
I sent you an xml file named hawkeyemill.xml to use to run your mill and its pulse per inch should be really close.
before calibrating with the autoset function in setup screen you need to set backlash compensation.
there are a few different methods but here is how i do it....
first you need to adjust the gibs so they are snug but not too tight
back off the gib untill it is loose and in step mode set to .001 per step, move the axis 1 step at a time untill you see a movement on a dial indicator against that axis. when it moves on the indicator zero the indicator. now move the axis the other way one pulse at a time untill you see movement and count the numbers of steps you made untill it moved and write it down -1 the last step made it move and we are looking for the steps without movement, or the backlash.
now slowly adjust the gib tighter until you see the steps required to see movement go up by one , this shows that the gib is just starting to bind the axis. back off just enough untill it returns to the original amount and lock the gib.
repeat this for every axis. on the z-axis make your measurments moving in the up direction it wont work moving down because of the free weight of the head takes out backlash.
now take you measurements you wrote down and enter them into each axis box in backlash compensation and remember to enable the compensation and leave the compensation feed rate at 20 percent.
dont forget to save your settings ( config pull down bottom of list " save settings )
now you can use the auto set in mach3 setup and backlash will be included in the settings.
steve
 
also in the xml file i set the max axis movement speed to 20 inches per minute.
your machine will be able to move much faster than that but 20 is a good starting point for beginning to learn cnc and g-code because it will give you more time to hit estop or space bar to stop if something is wrong like forgeting to zero the axis before running the code.
seeing the axis take off at 100 inches per minute in the wrong direction or straight down towards your table is exciting to say the least.
and because of stored energy in the driver and mach3 having to process the command the stop is not instant using a breakout board pin for estop or pause.
steve
 
Thanks, Steve. Once I got the file in and sorted the odd thing out, it started moving accurately - at least from the point of view of the scales. I'll do a DTI test soon.

Too many dry runs before first cut. I forgot to turn on the spindle first. :banghead: I'll have to look into adding spindle control to the system. Anyway, aside from a ragged entry hole, it was impressive to watch the foam fly.
P2060785a.jpg

I didn't set it up with tabs. That kind of detail will come soon enough. This isn't any particular part. Just an example I drew up for test purposes. If I'm bored, I might cast it anyway, just to try out lost-foam casting.

P2060785a.jpg
 
looks pretty good
are you going to try placing that in the sand or cover it with thinned drywall mud and remove the foam with lacquer thinner after its dry?
i made a few castings with placing the foam directly in the sand but i havent tried coating it yet
i tried the green foam they stick plastic flowers in and it didnt melt, it insulated so well the molten aluminum sat on top of it lol
if you need any more help just ask
it looks like your on your way
steve
 
Steve, I'll go half-way between the two. I'll coat the form with drywall mud and set it into dry sand. My casting bucket has an air agitator already, so sinking the mold should be fairly easy. I'll let the foam burn out with the pour. Outdoors. Out of sight of the strata council. Standing upwind.

Getting ready to go down to the shop and let the mill cut the front panel for its tach. I actually thought of casting an aluminum box for the tach, but welding up an ABS one is so much faster. Especially considering the time you need to let the drywall mud dry completely.
 
I have tried pouring into foam uncovered with mixed results. i havent tried the coating method yet but it has to work better as long as it's good and dry.
i'm looking for a kiln to try for drying the molds and melting before i start casting again. i missed a nice one two weeks ago for $125
steve
 
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