Yangzhou TY-CO632 13x40 Gear Head Lathe rebuild.

Sk7500 said:
That's great info! Thank you so much.
Your Lathe's an inspiration. Beautiful! Love the tool rack.
My electrical panel has the same issue. The Jog switch is about all that still works. I keep it unplugged when not in use because without the E-Stop button I can hear the relays humming.
Click to expand...

The switches are very easy and cheap to replace.

The lathe uses magnetic contactors for the motor, so current draw isn't an issue. It has a 120v transformer, and the contactor coils are driven by 120vac. A stainless 120vac green power led was like 3$ on ebay.

If you want to use the existing panel, just pull the switches and measure the holes. Switches in the appropriate size should be easy to find on Amazon or Ebay.


I ordered a stainless steel momentary for the jog, a stainless LED for the power light and an anodized aluminum Estop, the made a new panel from a piece of 6061 aluminum plate. For the switch holes i drilled 1/2" holes, then enlarged them to fit the new switches with a boring head in my mill.

I just layed the old panel over the 6061 plate and traced or the shape and holes with a pencil. Cut the outside with a bandsaw, and drill/bore the holes. I used a belt sander to clean up the cut edges.

Just connect the existing wires to the new switches.

I used switches much like these. There are cheaper switches available but I was willing to pay more for the look and quality:

Estop:


Jog:


Power LED:
www.ebay.com

PL8B-120 Alpinetech 8mm 120V AC/DC LED Metal Indicator Pilot Light Lamp Wire | eBay

Mounting Cut Hole: 8mm (about 5/16"). LED Color: Green. Bulb Type: LED. Operation Temperature: -20C - 55C.
www.ebay.com
 
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Ken226 said:
The switches are very easy and cheap to replace.

The lathe uses magnetic contactors for the motor, so current draw isn't an issue. It has a 120v transformer, and the contactor coils are driven by 120vac. A stainless 120vac green power led was like 3$ on ebay.

If you want to use the existing panel, just pull the switches and measure the holes. Switches in the appropriate size should be easy to find on Amazon or Ebay.


I ordered a stainless steel momentary for the jog, a stainless LED for the power light and an anodized aluminum Estop, the made a new panel from a piece of 6061 aluminum plate. For the switch holes i drilled 1/2" holes, then enlarged them to fit the new switches with a boring head in my mill.

I just layed the old panel over the 6061 plate and traced or the shape and holes with a pencil. Cut the outside with a bandsaw, and drill/bore the holes. I used a belt sander to clean up the cut edges.

Just connect the existing wires to the new switches.

I used switches much like these. There are cheaper switches available but I was willing to pay more for the look and quality:

Estop:


Jog:


Power LED:
www.ebay.com

PL8B-120 Alpinetech 8mm 120V AC/DC LED Metal Indicator Pilot Light Lamp Wire | eBay

Mounting Cut Hole: 8mm (about 5/16"). LED Color: Green. Bulb Type: LED. Operation Temperature: -20C - 55C.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
WOW! That's more great info. I was looking at emergency stop switches alone that were over $100. But with what you came up with I can replace everything under $50!!
Thanks again.
 
Here's a pic of my panel. I arranged the switches a little different than stock. When you make it yourself, the sky's the limit.

I sandblasted and coated the upper headstock cover in Cerakote Cobalt, and 3d printed a roll resistant TPU mat. Glued down with RTV. The headstock mat had to be printed in 2 pieces. If you have access to a 3d printer, I'd be more happy to put th mat files on thingiverse for you.


There's a similar mat up on top of the electronics box, and on the tailstock as well.



 
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