Yes, again...PM1440GS, PM1440BV, or 1340GT

Thanks everyone.

As to the braking, it isn't really about saving a tool or piece I am working on, that can all be replaced. It is more about saving my delicate 290lb body from flying debris as quickly as possible in the easiest way possible (like when I hit the floor and can still hit the brake with my hand :) ) I need to ask Matt if the GS has actual brake pads similar to the Grizzly 709 which I like since it is a true mechanical stop.

I believe I am going to go with the GS. I can always switch to 3 phase later and add a VFD. If I am thinking correctly, I would then have the ability to have VFD braking as well as the conventional brake as backup (if it does have pads). That would be the best of both worlds for me. In reality, the 1236 is probably big enough for anything I would ever do, but by the time I upgrade it, I am not that far from the 1440GS. I would just as soon have the extra weight and few other items like the built in spider. I will be get getting the Taiwanese 4 Jaw with it and I can get a better 3 jaw later.

I know the 1340 is a better built machine, but I honestly don't think at my level of experience that the GS will hinder me in any way.
 
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I have my PM-1440GT setup to do both electronic and mechanical braking. It requires changing out the foot switch to a two pole NC/NO switch. When the foot brake is depressed one pole opens the run contractor and the other signals the VFD to freewheel.
 
Jbolt brings up an important point that VFDs will trip to freewheel with a large chuck at high speeds, and anything electrical is not fool proof. I use my 8" chuck under 1000 RPM, beyond that I go to my 6" or a collet chuck, so less momentum. On Bill's 1340GT he runs an 8" all the time, so he has an additional braking setting that sets the system braking to 3 seconds for high speed work. At lower speeds another setting which either gives him 1 second and or another setting which is 3 seconds but switches to 1 second for the E-Stop and proximity stop. So a system/VFD programming can be tailored to the individual needs. You need to test the braking from different speeds, and also take into account the mass of the material you are turning. A foot brake is great but you need to have used one and have that innate response to use it. If you read about most machine accidents, it is usually someone else that hits the E-Stop and shuts the machine down. Safety is always first, when one gets complacent is when you can get bit.

I also have mine setup for two speed braking. What I have found with my VFD setup is at high speed I have to set the VFD braking to 6 seconds or it will fault. I prefer that anyway since it is easier on the gears. Typically anything I do at or near the top speed of the machine is very small in diameter or is for polishing. It is the latter where I will stop the machine, switch to high gear and forget to switch the brake mode resulting in a fault when I turn off the spindle. My normal use of the foot brake at high speed is to tap the pedal to set the VFD to freewheel and then drag the brake to stop the machine. The VFD does essentially the same thing when set to the proper mode. There have been times when I have mistakenly grabbed the half nut lever instead of the feed lever where my brain locked up because the wrong thing was happening and I hesitated disengaging the half nut. Stomping the foot brake is a reflexive reaction for me since it was how I was taught and am accustom to using.
 
The Gs looks to be a very unique machine. It has it's own attributes and still interests me thinking I have moved on and went with something else. Looking forward to see what you think.
For me a brake has to be one of those one hundred percent things that has to be there for sure and the factory brake pedal allows best access. Say your down the other end with the steady rest. More than likely if by chance it's you that needs it you know it's a mechanical setup and it will be there if you take care of your machine. Right now this is how I feel. As a go to item a brake setup can't be beat and even for production work it can work all day. I am trying to learn more about vfd's and maybe you it could be used with the pedal as well. If it fault's once that's enough reason for me. Vfd's do seem impressive though!
 
Thanks Mark and Rich.

It does help some. I think I agree that less change gears is better, so that takes out the BV. I realize I can do braking via the VFD on the 1340, but I am more thinking that if something goes boom, it is probably a lot easier to hit a foot brake than emergency stop nearer the spindle, especially if things are still spinning. I guess that mostly comes from not having a lot of time on a lathe, but that is a concern.

I was planning to get the Taiwan 4 jaw with the GS so it would only be the 3 jaw that is not as good. By the time I would do a VFD and new motor, I am probably within $600-700 of the 1340 and it has a better 3 jaw.

Well, at least I am narrowed down to 2 now. It's a start..ha.

Quality is never a bad thing (is the 1340 higher quality?). I am generally in the camp that says you should buy a machine that is a bit larger than what you think you'll need (given any physical constraints that are absolute show stoppers - such as power, physical space, access). For example, if you think a 10" lathe will do everything you could imagine, then get a 12" (so long as there are no show stoppers).

However, if you come across a real high class machine comes along - give it some very serious thought, regardless of the size. If a nice condition, cheap: HVLH, HVLH clone, Chipmaster, anything S&B, . . . . and so on came my way, I'd be all over it. You can't hold your breath on that (I waited 10 years for my S&B) - but I already had a decent machine so the breath holding really wasn't very difficult. The point being, quality is always a good thing.

Okay, you are not talking about anything real high class. You are looking at good practical machines, which is exactly what I did. My first lathe (see "decent machine") above is nothing very special, just a good practical machine, along similar lines to what you are looking at. My encouragement is that you avoid the lowest priced item available to you. If you go up one step, you will soon forget the pain of having picked up slightly less capacity per dollar invested. If you start with a bit nicer lathe and look after it, then it will always be a bit nicer lathe. Sure, over the years you may well acquire other machines, but a nice lathe will always be useful (yes, even if you have several others as well).

Thank you for sharing the struggle of your decision. This is a fantastic activity to get involved in. Welcome, David Craig
 
When I was looking for a lathe that still isn't here yet and hope I don't have to go back to trying to choose. I started with a budget in my head and by the time I was ready I realized in ten years or so that difference in purchase price won't mean anything and I stopped comparing with the price being so important. Don't get me wrong I don't have money to burn but I would suggest it be more important to get what you want and be satisfied.
Each machine has it's own features that make it have it's own character. The gs has a great thread and feed box which is unique to this one machine at this price point along with the other features like the 2 inch bore. You get a lot of lathe here.
Many have been satisfied with there chucks after some tuning and it is a purchase that can be done down the rd. after you have had some time with the machine if you feel the need.
Go back to what you want and what is acceptable as far as quality. The internet has too many opinions and I am one of those that can say it is only what I have read and Lord knows it's hard to decide without seeing it in person.
A lot of pro gunsmiths seem to be using the Chinese machines. Not all day production and budget wise it seems to fit there needs.
 
Well, the deed is done. A GS is bought and paid for. I will take some pics and video when I get it since there isn't a lot out there on it just yet. It will be a few weeks as Matt has to get them in and I will be out of town just after that. Nice to have something to look forward to.

Thanks again everyone for the input.
 
Congratulation! I looked awful hard for some reviews and could only find it's clones like the Grizzly g0709 but and the gs I think is in another league with it's cast vs. steel stand, the 2 inch bore, a few other things however it is the only one mentioned with the NSK Japanese spindle bearings. Looking forward to your reviews. Nice looking too!
 
Thanks Mark. Grizzly does state that their spindle bearing are NSK also in the specs so I did actually do a bit of comparison. I agree the cast stand, bore size, factory DRO installed (at least for me I didn't want to mess with it ), and probably most importantly the 3 year warranty made the difference for me. The Grizzly is about $500 cheaper, but I expect a bit better overall quality from Matt's machines. Time will tell.
 
Congrats. I'm glad you decided on the GS. It sounds like a great lathe. I just about ordered one too, before I went crazy, with some help form a few friends ready to help me blow my budget too. I really want to hear your impressions and a full review when you can. It sounds like a great machine.
 
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