Yet another 1ph 220v reversible motor and switch wiring issue

markba633csi said:
Could be a variety of reasons or combination of them. It's possible a failing capacitor is at least partially responsible- or poor quality contact alloy?
You just got your motor diploma, wear it proudly :cupcake:
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The contact points are kind-of small but they are solid copper. If the issue continues then I'll find a better set of contacts (they're cheap) and I'll check the cap. I might do both anyway if I get time. It appears to be a well built motor but it is a Chinese manufacture. After the start cap releases there is about 8 amps through the start winding, which seems to be about right running at 120v. Not much of a jump in start up amps that I can see with my equipment for that circuit. Running amps is right where the label says it should be.

Tony
 
Solid copper probably was chosen because it's cheap and available- most domestic high current switch and relay contacts I've seen are a silvery alloy with some rhodium or other hard metal that resists sticking
 
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Update: In the process of trying to get one of these rotary/drum 'FWD-OFF-REV' switches with the config shown in post #8 I ordered a LW5-16 switch from Amazon hoping to get the same switch. No luck, but also no big deal. The switch I received operated a bit differently than the original but exactly like the LW28-32 that markba633csi came up with in post #7. Just needed some jumpers to work. But, although these switches work fine, after taking one apart to try and reconfigure it's operation it doesn't appear these are quality switches. I found Kraus-Naimer switches, downloaded their catalog, and with the help of their experts, found a switch with better specs, smaller, with nice features and almost made to order. I should have that today. I got to pick the switch size, amperage, front panel and labeling and knob type and color. Not cheap but safer than the $12 China made units, I think.
I'll post more updates for installation and operation over the week's end just in case there is interest.

tjm
 
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Here are the Kraus&Naimer switches I found compared with the usual LW series switches found online. First, the A712 and WAA612 diagrams below are from the Kraus&Naimer wiring pocketbook ( https://www.krausnaimer.com/us_en/catalogs ). The A712 is the config you usually find as replacement switches and need to be jumpered to work. I grayed out the 4th pole. The WAA622 config is made for single phase, reversible motor wiring with both external and internal jumpers. Both configs work, just a matter of how neat you want the operation to be. I now have two of the Kraus&Naimer WAA622 configs for my motors. The diagrams and differences are also shown below. The Kraus&Naimer switch is about half the size of the LW5 with slightly more amperage capability, has a neater setup, terminals are recessed to avoid shock, you can choose the faceplate and handle config and the switch body detaches from the mount for easier access. I'll post the before and after switch installation in the switchbox later today.
A712_1280_300dpi.png WAA622_1280_300dpi.png
2Sw-top-bot.png KN_detached.png
 
markba633csi said:
Diagrams a bit confusing- must be euro made :)
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Having now dealt with this stuff and trying my own diagrams, I actually find these KN diagrams more usable as they have the position/connection chart AND the internal switch layout. It also helps to have the switch in hand. Following the current flow through these diagrams just seems to be less confusing than my own drawings. Combined with your schematics this has become easy work.

tjm
 
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