Yet another drum switch

Headrc

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Looking at all the threads about wiring drum switches I feel my motor is different. It is wired for 230 volts. Only four wires coming out of the motor with instructions on the motor to swap the yellow and red wires (no longer true yellow or red) for reversing. It has four terminals , two of them for line voltage and the three others.....with two of those strapped together. That is where the yellow or red wire apparently get swapped to reverse the direction of the motor. No ground or neutral terminals ...the previous owner just connected those to the frame of the motor. The drum switch I have is a Dayton 2x440. I think I have figured out a way to wire the drum switch to swap the red and yellow terminal connections ....but if anyone has experience with this situation ....advice is welcome. Thanks in advance. Richard

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Dayton 2x440 wiring.jpeg
 
Be vary careful with what you are doing. It is defiantly a electrical code violation and a danger to ground the neutral wire. This is because should there be a resistance difference or more substantially a break in the ground you will receive a shock from the frame. Also be sure that you are feeding only 120V to the starting winding and capacitor and not 220V.
 
Here is a wiring diagram. you are going to have to go deep in the motor to isolate the start windings and capacitor circuit as shown.Capture motor forward reverse2.JPG
 
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Thanks...I should have mentioned that I am aware about tying neutral and ground together. One of the poles was not used by the previous owner and I wonder if that is actually where neutral should be connected. At the least I was going to try and ohm out that pole today and see what I could find. I thought I might have to open up the motor but was hoping to not have to do that. In your drawing Alexander could you specify which is the start capacitor and the start winding? I think I know ...but my reading of electric schematics/drawings is minimal and needs to be improved. Also you indicate two straps on the back wiring poles as opposed to the one that is there now ....but that bottom strap that is not there now connects to that pole that was not used before. Why is that? It does not look to be connected in your drawing to anything as well until the strap is applied.

Besides determining where neutral should be connected, if reversing the motor is just a matter of swapping the red and yellow wires as per the instructions on the motors casing ....if I wire up the switch to do just that would that not work? Dayton is horrible about providing motor model specific wiring diagrams/instructions on the web. I could not find them anywhere for the model of this motor. Thanks, Richard
 
Are you planning to hook it up for 115V or 230V?

If you are planning for 230V you don't need a neutral at all. If you are hooking it up for 115V neutral will be connected to one of the "Line" terminals and it doesn't really make any difference which is hot (black) and which is neutral (white). If there is no ground terminal you can connect the ground (green) to the motor case. Do not just wrap bare wires around screws (except for testing) , use a proper crimp on ring terminal!

You may find that there are actually two jumpers stacked together, you can use one of them if you need a second jumper for 115V.
 
I am going to wire it up for 230V ...which is how the previous owner used it.
 
Give me a second and I'll post a diagram for you
mark
 
Ignore that lower strap, That is is a renominate from when I was reverse enginieared the original wirering. The bottom coil in the drawing is the starting coil with the switch. You could do without the neutral wire if you instead have the neutral lead connected to the upper strap. That way the starting coil gets the intermediate voltage of the two main windings and one or the other phases.
 
This should work for you: (Don't forget the safety ground; I didn't show it)
Swap Line 1 and Line 2 at the drum if direction is backwards
DaytonDrum220XM.jpeg
DaytonPicmod220vm.jpegMark
 
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This is the easiest and simplest of all the drum switch hookups; it breaks both legs of the power when off and subjects the start leg and start cap to 1/2 the supply voltage which is usually desirable since most start caps are rated for 120v. You are right about Dayton; they don't make it easy sometimes.
Mark
ps you don't need a neutral for this connection, just a safety ground to the motor case, and the switch case too
 
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