ZTR mower & hydraulics?

I've been on a few, and this one just isn't behaving like those.

Centering: I'm going to say 'No', and get to ordering a set of struts.
I kept having to move them back and forth in a vain attempt to get it to go straight.
And since Honey is going to be operating this puppy I need to have it performing correctly.

OEM Filters, normally I'd agree with you on that, but since this is an inline adapter I just know that it's a standard configuration, and that there's a WIX compatible available for $11 but it's spec'd at 10 micron.
But then comes the question of restricting flow and messing up said pumps....

I remember my first time on a ZTR! I too was all over the place!! You will get the hang of it soon!! The factory hydro filters are one thing that I will splurge on, I would rather have exactly what the engineers specify than have to worry about if it will work. Hydraulic pumps and motors are not cheap!!! The gas struts will also make a huge difference:)

Ryan
Just out of curiosity if you put both handles full forward does it track straight and keep tracking straight? And if you let go of the levers do they center and the mower stop? In hindsight shoulda asked that first.
 
Definitely an oil change, sometimes that makes all the difference. For $15 I don't think I'd even ask if the 10 micron will work, go with the OEM unless you talk with a factory tech that says the WIX is good.

Once you've got that done run through the factory set-up process for balancing the drives.

Cheers,

John
 
Just did some searching on the 'Dampners' (struts?)
$50 on up for a pair... (ugh)
Need to remove one and see how it behaves on the bench. Take some dimensions.
The Toro Rider is running well, I may just park this under a tarp for the time being...
Also have a 46" Craftsman basket case that we picked up at an estate auction - was going to fix that up and flip it.
However given the current state of things. . .
 
One possibility is you might have moisture in the oil. Replacing oil and filter is gonna be your first step. As for the dampers yeah I would bench test them first but check amazon all you need to know is the length they are all the same.
 
For sure, hydraulics I hope is where the problems lay, and not the loose nut on the seat.
Found where the filter is today. Up under the battery mount.
It was coated, & caked with oil & grass muck so bad I couldn't even see it. Finally felt it. Pressure washed it off.
So I would venture to guess it has not or never has been changed.
Took off one of the dampners. My poor assumption was that it was like a lifting gas strut like those used on hoods and such.
Seems to be OK as a dampner. Good smooth movement.
Operating it today, the handles do not come back to a 'neutral' / 'center' position at all.
Could not get it to track nor return to center and stop moving on level ground.
I'm assuming that they should behave like other hydraulics and 'return to center'.
It actually got moving so quick on me that when I turned I was drifting. That was a tad hairy.
One of the ball joint linkages on the right linkage is loose.
And it seems that the valve actuator(?) are internal to the pumps. There are two pumps.
I'm wondering if they might need new seals?
I have to get the shop cleaned up further before tearing into it.

One possibility is you might have moisture in the oil. Replacing oil and filter is gonna be your first step. As for the dampers yeah I would bench test them first but check amazon all you need to know is the length they are all the same.
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Just keep working through it, there will be many little things but since you're only paying yourself it should be affordable;)
These old zero turns are built like tanks and once you get to the piece that's causing trouble it'll be a good and reliable piece of equipment. So much quicker that a riding mower that pro's use nothing else these days.

Cheers,

John
 
How much resistance do the struts have? If I remember correctly, they are rather stiff. I am still thinking that the struts are part of the problem. Remember that you have a two foot lever length from where your hand is to the control lever on the pump that moves two inches, it will greatly amplify your hand movements. Hence a stiffer shock. If you can move it easily, I would replace it. You can order a set and check how a new one compares and return them if yours are ok. Definitely change the hydro fluid (yearly maintenance). I would doubt there is any water in the system, I have never had any outside contamination in any of my machines. I also wouldn’t start tearing apart anything internally.
Good luck!
Ryan
 
Resistance seemed pretty high just on the bench.
Going to get on the fluid change as soon as the shop is in decent order.
(also need to find my large Blitz drip catcher....)
I found a service order in the paperwork. Last time it was in the shop was 2009. -hehe
(10-14) years without a change can't be good.
Unit has only ~440 hours on it.
 
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