JET 1240PD

@David2011 wow thank you for explaining that to me. That’s enough for me to understand what’s going on and how to get started.

First time I flipped through the owner manual I was just lost and couldn’t make sense of any of it. Breaking it down and drawing attention to specific content really helps organize my squirrels.
 
Matthewsx was a huge help to me in understanding my horrible manual. Glad I could return the favor.
 
Your lathe is a very stout 12 inch and I believe it was made by "Dashin Prince" The tailstock part you are looking for could be sourced from a Grizzly DF 1224 or 1236. It looks like the Tailstock from one of those lathes which were made for Grizzly by Dai Fong. Dashin Prince lathes are not as common as some of the other Taiwan lathes but they do pop up from time to time and they look to be of much higher quality than most other Taiwan lathes of the same era.

Most 12 inch lathes from that era have a 1 horsepower or a 1 1/2 horsepower motor, Yours is 3 horsepower, Even a lot of 1440 lathes only have a 2 hp motor. The Steady rest, Follow rest are very beefy compared to what you get today and most lathes from that era don't have a foot brake either. Those Dashin Prince Lathes are very well made lathes.

There are quite a few Grizzly DF lathes around and I am almost positive the tailstock lock you need will be the same.

Here is a pic of a Dashin Prince 12 inch Lathe. It is almost identical to yours other than color and name badge.

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@Harry Knutz, correct, it’s a Dashin. The Grizzly models help. I’ll try some research using that lead. I found a YouTube channel (Hersch tool) who has an MSC version of my lathe. I should ask him more about his as well.

I’ve received a lot of positive feedback so far on my purchase. I really need to move it and verify the circuitry and run through it because I’ve got tasks stacking up. A race car and a restomod truck screaming for parts and fasteners

Cool picture, I haven’t seen a Dashin example. I dig the gray. Really makes me want to repaint now!
 
@Harry Knutz, correct, it’s a Dashin. The Grizzly models help. I’ll try some research using that lead. I found a YouTube channel (Hersch tool) who has an MSC version of my lathe. I should ask him more about his as well.

I’ve received a lot of positive feedback so far on my purchase. I really need to move it and verify the circuitry and run through it because I’ve got tasks stacking up. A race car and a restomod truck screaming for parts and fasteners

Cool picture, I haven’t seen a Dashin example. I dig the gray. Really makes me want to repaint now!
I believe that is actually a repaint by Sterling. I have seen some Tan colored ones from the factory.

There was a guy selling one near here about 6 mos ago that looked like it was brand new but it was from the 70's or 80's It sold quick.
 
Appears to be a cam shaft arrangement for the quill lock. Should be able to manufacture myself once I have a lathe…..that’s running. Hahaha
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Nothing much to report but the machine is energized. A lot of elbow grease was put into cleaning what meets the eye using mineral spirits. Doesn’t show much in the photos but to me there’s a lot of wow factor.

Tracking down lubricants. OG specs Tellus 27 and Tonna 33. Luckily Mobil stood the test of time with DTE L (or AW32 hydraulic oil) and Vactra No.2. I have a pail of AW32 and have some Vactra on order. Question. See arrows. What’s the preferred method of lube delivery? A needle nose oil can of sorts? There’s plungers/check balls noted with arrows. What’s your favorite product? (Oil can)

I’ve got a simple bushing job right away to complete but then I really need to commit to a tear down for deep cleaning and lubricant change so that I know where the maintenance stands.

Regarding some operational/VFD stuff. It’s high range 1,800 where it trips out. The foot brake does not work, instead the VFD displays decel. Will follow up with the help some of you have provided.

Been collecting some tooling and plenty of carbide inserts.IMG_8602.jpegIMG_8601.jpegIMG_8726.jpeg
 
Great thread @WiscoF100 ! Thanks for the play by play and all the great photos!

That machine looks to be top of the line from Taiwan, for its time. Very sturdy.
 
An oil can with a thumb style pump and a flexible spout that is made to fit ball oilers good is what you are looking for. I have one that is my favorite and works better than the others I have but I can not find a name on it anywhere. Its a chrome or stainless one. I have a couple of goldenrods and a plews and a couple of eagles, But this no name one works better for me than the others and I have been using it a long time. Mr Mike gave me a Reilang oiler made in Germany and It was very generous of him to give it to me, But I just can't say it's any better than the other ones I have. I just can't get used to it.

I keep way oil in it to just squirt on the ways.
 
Got totally sidetracked and jumped in with both feet to single point threading today.

3/4 -10 tpi RH

Compound set 29.5*

RH carbide insert squared off the chuck. Tool point set on center with material.

Trying to diagnose my failures. I tried towards the chuck and away from (tool inverted, lead screw and spindle direction corresponding) I DID NOT try different rpm’s. Tried different dial marks. Tried leaving the half nut engaged and reversing spindle. I even tried different tpi settings +/- 1 tpi. Used the carriage stop as well.

Scratch pass looked promising but the pitch leaf runs off on like the 4th thread. Every attempt on the machine just made dual pitch or would just run over a thread.

I got bored and just tried surface finishing the goobered threads until I had enough.

One clear observation is that the half nut engagement is spot on threading away from the chuck. Threading towards is rather finicky and not consistent.

Here’s the settings I went by. A E 2 105 rpm IMG_8749.jpegIMG_8752.jpegIMG_8751.jpegIMG_8740.jpegIMG_8741.jpegIMG_8742.jpegIMG_8743.jpegIMG_8744.jpegIMG_8745.jpeg
 
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