- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Messages
- 107
I have this previously posted on another forum and Darkzero thought it might be of interest to folks with Rf45 type mills.
Here are couple of pics of the machine in Jan when it arrived back in 2012:
Welded a basic stand:
At this point the mill was just a variable speed PM45 mill.
I went with DMM Tech 900 watt 3 axis ac servo kit. It seems more elegant than doing the stepper route. As I mentioned in the lathe thread, they have provided me with great service and tech support and the servos have been flawless on reliability.
I ordered (2) 5/8" 5 tpi ball screws for x&y axis and (1) 3/4" ball screw for the Z from Roton. I also ordered double ballnuts for each axis. In hindsite, I would recommend 3/4" for x and y and 1 inch or larger for z. You basically are limited to anything larger on these machines because of space considerations:
The ball screws from Roton x and y were 5/8" x 5 tpi 15" and 48" respectively to be cut to size and z axis was 48" to be cut to size but 3/4"/ 5 tpi
5/8 X .200 Right Hand Recirculating Lead Screws & Nuts for Power Transmission - Roton Products, Inc.
3/4 X .200 Right Hand Recirculating Lead Screws & Nuts for Power Transmission - Roton Products, Inc.
I also ordered (8)12mm double row angular contact bearings + (4) 15mm from
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/CTGY/Double-Row-Angular-Contact-Bearings
I machined my own bearing blocks with 2 bearing per side on each side of the block.
I picked up 80lbs of aluminum rem stock from industrial metal supply. Mostly 2 1/2" x 3" thick and 1/2" thick plate. There is also 20lb chunk of steel rem for the z axis ball nut mount. All of the aluminum was at 1.69lb and the steel was 1.39. Basically a $150 for stock metal costs for the conversion:
Got to use the new Glacern Face mill. It really is awesome!
I should have snapped a pic right after I milled it- shiny metal and dead smooth flat. I took this one 3 hours later after measuring the mill a and stock to check fitment and design. This chunk is a a bearing block to be.
Here is a pic with the basic shape cut and one side bored for the double row angular contact bearing. There are to be 2 double row bearings on each block in a sandwich to support each end of the ballscrew.
I mount ad block like this on each side of the x axis and then a 1/2" thick plate for the offset to mount the motor.
I machined to identical bearing blocks and will use the stock bolt holes for coplanar alignment. Here are some pics to show perspective better:
Width of bearing block:
I basically cut the blocks to size and then drilled through the block with a 1/2" drill to to provide a way to locate and bore the bearing holeon each side of the block and have them be coplanar.
Checking fitment:
gang machining to make them identical:
finished blocks with 2 bearings per side:
I remember the day everything arrived:
dmm ac servo kit, antec 65v psu, ballscrews, ballnuts...
ballscrews:
dmm control board:
i removed the table and measured for the x axis ball nut mount:
Here is a pic of my X axis setup. The DIY pre-loaded double nut seems to work. It currently has 2 50lb bellville washers per screw to provide pre-load force.
In this pic, you can see the nut loose and the parts, there are actually 2 opposing bellevilles per bolt like this () They generate 50lbs wer washer x 8 washers:
All tightened up:
Head on view:
It fits!
Fyi, the preloaded ballnut setup with 2 cheap roton ballnuts (24.00 each + 5/8" ballscrewat $11.00 a foot) seems to have absolutely no backlash with 300lbs of preload from belleville washers.
Test fit of the gear side:
Tail side:
BTW, this is one of my favorite tools. I always hated tapping and these spiral flute taps are awesome. The chips come through the flutes and they just cut better. I got 4 sizes so far all on ebay:
Close up because I really really like these taps!
X axis is nearly done:
Y axis ball nut block with boss:
I had to take the mill head off. Considering the weight, this was done by disassembly. I added bigger motor anyway:
Gears- I am getting rid of these and converting to belt drive:
Z axis lower bearing support block. Alignment of Z axis was a little tricky. In the end, i snuck up on it but had to make several of these to get the fitment right. It was hard to take accurate measurements inside the column:
z axis ballnut block. Basically a 3"x8"x5" block with a boss cut on the end. I am really happy with the fitment as there is absolutely no slop:
Here is the opposite view with the boss cap:
3 hp inverter duty motor and drive. It is heavy at 130lbs and makes the AC Tech vfd look tiny:
I was going to use the pm factory dc motor but I scored the inverter motor for 180 dollars new surplus and the motor that came with the mill is a "tad" optimistic in its "3hp" rating. The lincoln motor is really a monster in comparison and 4x the size. It will be a little interesting shoe horning it on top of the head...
On another note, I was able to cut grooves in the ways and drill/tap x, y and z axis using the bridgeport at roadrace engineering. They work on my car and let me use it after hours. First time using one and it cut like butter:
I performed surgery on the top of the mill, opening the top up for my flush, undermount bearing block. Not the prettiest cut but it will be covered entirely by the servo mounting plate. I basically climbed up on the mill stand and cut it out with my plasma. I think I won't do that again
More to follow...
Here are couple of pics of the machine in Jan when it arrived back in 2012:
Welded a basic stand:
At this point the mill was just a variable speed PM45 mill.
I went with DMM Tech 900 watt 3 axis ac servo kit. It seems more elegant than doing the stepper route. As I mentioned in the lathe thread, they have provided me with great service and tech support and the servos have been flawless on reliability.
I ordered (2) 5/8" 5 tpi ball screws for x&y axis and (1) 3/4" ball screw for the Z from Roton. I also ordered double ballnuts for each axis. In hindsite, I would recommend 3/4" for x and y and 1 inch or larger for z. You basically are limited to anything larger on these machines because of space considerations:
The ball screws from Roton x and y were 5/8" x 5 tpi 15" and 48" respectively to be cut to size and z axis was 48" to be cut to size but 3/4"/ 5 tpi
5/8 X .200 Right Hand Recirculating Lead Screws & Nuts for Power Transmission - Roton Products, Inc.
3/4 X .200 Right Hand Recirculating Lead Screws & Nuts for Power Transmission - Roton Products, Inc.
I also ordered (8)12mm double row angular contact bearings + (4) 15mm from
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/CTGY/Double-Row-Angular-Contact-Bearings
I machined my own bearing blocks with 2 bearing per side on each side of the block.
I picked up 80lbs of aluminum rem stock from industrial metal supply. Mostly 2 1/2" x 3" thick and 1/2" thick plate. There is also 20lb chunk of steel rem for the z axis ball nut mount. All of the aluminum was at 1.69lb and the steel was 1.39. Basically a $150 for stock metal costs for the conversion:
Got to use the new Glacern Face mill. It really is awesome!
I should have snapped a pic right after I milled it- shiny metal and dead smooth flat. I took this one 3 hours later after measuring the mill a and stock to check fitment and design. This chunk is a a bearing block to be.
Here is a pic with the basic shape cut and one side bored for the double row angular contact bearing. There are to be 2 double row bearings on each block in a sandwich to support each end of the ballscrew.
I mount ad block like this on each side of the x axis and then a 1/2" thick plate for the offset to mount the motor.
I machined to identical bearing blocks and will use the stock bolt holes for coplanar alignment. Here are some pics to show perspective better:
Width of bearing block:
I basically cut the blocks to size and then drilled through the block with a 1/2" drill to to provide a way to locate and bore the bearing holeon each side of the block and have them be coplanar.
Checking fitment:
gang machining to make them identical:
finished blocks with 2 bearings per side:
I remember the day everything arrived:
dmm ac servo kit, antec 65v psu, ballscrews, ballnuts...
ballscrews:
dmm control board:
i removed the table and measured for the x axis ball nut mount:
Here is a pic of my X axis setup. The DIY pre-loaded double nut seems to work. It currently has 2 50lb bellville washers per screw to provide pre-load force.
In this pic, you can see the nut loose and the parts, there are actually 2 opposing bellevilles per bolt like this () They generate 50lbs wer washer x 8 washers:
All tightened up:
Head on view:
It fits!
Fyi, the preloaded ballnut setup with 2 cheap roton ballnuts (24.00 each + 5/8" ballscrewat $11.00 a foot) seems to have absolutely no backlash with 300lbs of preload from belleville washers.
Test fit of the gear side:
Tail side:
BTW, this is one of my favorite tools. I always hated tapping and these spiral flute taps are awesome. The chips come through the flutes and they just cut better. I got 4 sizes so far all on ebay:
Close up because I really really like these taps!
X axis is nearly done:
Y axis ball nut block with boss:
I had to take the mill head off. Considering the weight, this was done by disassembly. I added bigger motor anyway:
Gears- I am getting rid of these and converting to belt drive:
Z axis lower bearing support block. Alignment of Z axis was a little tricky. In the end, i snuck up on it but had to make several of these to get the fitment right. It was hard to take accurate measurements inside the column:
z axis ballnut block. Basically a 3"x8"x5" block with a boss cut on the end. I am really happy with the fitment as there is absolutely no slop:
Here is the opposite view with the boss cap:
3 hp inverter duty motor and drive. It is heavy at 130lbs and makes the AC Tech vfd look tiny:
I was going to use the pm factory dc motor but I scored the inverter motor for 180 dollars new surplus and the motor that came with the mill is a "tad" optimistic in its "3hp" rating. The lincoln motor is really a monster in comparison and 4x the size. It will be a little interesting shoe horning it on top of the head...
On another note, I was able to cut grooves in the ways and drill/tap x, y and z axis using the bridgeport at roadrace engineering. They work on my car and let me use it after hours. First time using one and it cut like butter:
I performed surgery on the top of the mill, opening the top up for my flush, undermount bearing block. Not the prettiest cut but it will be covered entirely by the servo mounting plate. I basically climbed up on the mill stand and cut it out with my plasma. I think I won't do that again
More to follow...