PM 932 mill power feed problem

Those drives have shim packs to adjust the motor gear with the lead screw bevel gear mesh. Is the motor also slow when removed from the machine? If not, then the shims may not be enough, causing binding. If you have that issue, I think I can supply you to a link for setting up Servo drives, which yours is likely mostly copied after.
I didn't get any shims with it, it adjusts by moving the metal angle plate it's mounted to either up or down. I guess shims could be used to move it out but that appears to be a good fit.
 
Most likely a bad speed pot, if the wires disconnect you can check it with an ohmmeter and should be able to see an even change in the resistance. I would start with that first. This is very common in speed pots. I often use a wire wound pots, just find them to be more reliable in this setting.
That's easy for YOU to say Mark!:):):) My electronics skills are next to none so we'll save that as a last resort.:)
 
Check the motor brushes. We have spares if you need them, thats what it sounds like.

Usually when it happens its gradual, so people think that its going full speed in rapid, but its actually a lot slower than it was at the beginning. Just a guess, the others could be right with the speed pot, but the brushes are something to check
 
On servo brand PFs the rapid is a separate circuit from the speed pot
 
Rick,
After you check the brushes, if you still have a problem, I would suggest the following:
In the picture below, there is the speed pot on the left with 3 wires connected to it, yellow, white and blue. These wires are connected to the control board with a 3 pin female socket which you should be able to carefully slip off the pins on the control board (Power disconnected). Once the socket is disconnected, use some thin bare wire or pins and stick them in the 3 socket holes to make connections. You can measure the total pot resistance using an ohmmeter between the wires/pins connected to the yellow and blue wires, white wire is attached to the wiper which adjusts the resistance. So use an ohmmeter attached to the yellow and white first and sweep the pot, the resistance should evenly change with no jumps or sudden changes. Repeat this between the white and blue leads. If the pot does need to be replaced, you need to measure the total resistance of the pot, and its basic dimensions. They tend to be fairly standard in size. Remove the old pot unsolder its wires and resolder to the new pot noting the same wire connections. If the pot checks out fine and the brushes look good, then it is probably a problem on the control board.

pot.jpg
 
I measured both sets of wires and got the same readings, 0.000-0.536. It seemed like it was smooth going up and down.

bbb.JPG


Does this mean the pot is good? There are no markings on the outside of the pot so I can't give you it's rating.
 
I just ran it with the case open and it will barely do anything. It runs fine in rapid traverse but almost nothing in regular mode. It almost feels like the switch in the handle is bad, if I play with the handle it seems like it wants to start but then it quits. I can't get it to run in regular mode for more than a second or two.


The brushes look fine to me...

zzz.JPG
 
OK, I just reassembled the unit and now the handle seems to work, the speed still oscillates up and down but at least the handle works!:)
 
Matt seems to think it could be the brushes, he's sending me some so I'll get back to you after I try them out.
 
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