Wanting to power a lead screw

mrbreezeet1 said:

Is there a better place to buy these 5K linear pots from?

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I just went to Amazon looking for "5K linear potentiometer", saw this one:

5k?, 2W 1/4" Shaft Linear Taper Potentiometer - $6.95 + $4.93 shipping
http://www.amazon.com/5k%2126-Shaft-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer/dp/B00C9NWQ8A

found the 1 reviewers' comment interesting:

Am I the only one who is FED UP with the weird Metric flimsy Die-cast zinc potentiometers with intermittent connections and noise in the wiper that everyone is pushing?
I use these for industrial motor controllers.
Here it is, the genuine rugged article that can be used in harsh environments, and probably will not fail.

I am not exporting, so for me, Metrification is a silly affectation, a pose, like a Spring Water List in a pretentious restaurant- Particularly when the Metric versions so commonly offered are cheap garbage.
Yes, Metric is the way the World is going, and it eliminates silly fractional measurements like 13/64. But it is not a reason to buy a lousy product.

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...looks nice and heavy duty, but I'm not an electrician either...

Thanks Bob, Maybe I'll try one. I am not even going to bother returning this one to R.S for exchange.
http://www.amazon.com/5k%2126-Shaft-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer/dp/B00C9NWQ8A
Boy, that does look like it's made nice.
Hopefully l can get a break on shipping if l buy more than one.

Anyone ever run into this?
one of my KBIC-120's seem to still feed a very small amount of power to the motor, with the pot dialed all the way down. My other 2 are not doing this.
I swapped out the resistors, no change, and adjusted all the mini pots the same as the other that is working OK. Also tried adjusting The MIN. pot down all the way, it still feeds a little voltage.
It is just slight, to where the motor hums, but does not run.

mrbreezeet1 said:

Thanks Bob, Maybe I'll try one. I am not even going to bother returning this one to R.S for exchange.
http://www.amazon.com/5k%2126-Shaft-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer/dp/B00C9NWQ8A
Boy, that does look like it's made nice.
Hopefully l can get a break on shipping if l buy more than one.

Anyone ever run into this?
one of my KBIC-120's seem to still feed a very small amount of power to the motor, with the pot dialed all the way down. My other 2 are not doing this.
I swapped out the resistors, no change, and adjusted all the mini pots the same as the other that is working OK. Also tried adjusting The MIN. pot down all the way, it still feeds a little voltage.
It is just slight, to where the motor hums, but does not run.

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Then that wasn't bad enough, I was pulling this little jumper from the fuse to the A= tab off, and it was real tight, I pulled the tab clean out of the PCB.
I was able to solder it back in though. ............LOL

I see you can only edit so so long now .
Yeah, they give you a break on shipping, here is for shipping on 4 of them.

mrbreezeet1 said:

Anyone ever run into this?
one of my KBIC-120's seem to still feed a very small amount of power to the motor, with the pot dialed all the way down. My other 2 are not doing this.
I swapped out the resistors, no change, and adjusted all the mini pots the same as the other that is working OK. Also tried adjusting The MIN. pot down all the way, it still feeds a little voltage.
It is just slight, to where the motor hums, but does not run.

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nobody has any Ideas about this board? I sure would like to get it working right.
Bet this would be a nice motor, but your looking at $200.00 shipped, and its a 180 Volt, so you would need a 220 volt input controller.
Bet it would have some power though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-HP-2500...588?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4b37b61c

I'd say that would be a heck of a deal at $200 shipped. I'd be looking at Dart controllers, not cheap but a known industrial controller.

JimDawson said:

I'd say that would be a heck of a deal at $200 shipped. I'd be looking at Dart controllers, not cheap but a known industrial controller.

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Yeah, I would like to have it Jim, but it's a little more than I can spend right now. Then I would need a 180 Volt board.
Let me ask, I got some primary wire for hooking up these motors to the board, I got # 16 wire.
That should be heavy enough for the Board to the Motor; Correct?
But It got me to thinking, Is 16AWG OK for the pots, or is it over kill.
I see most pots that come with the board, wired up are using thinner wire, maybe 18 0r 20.
Would 16 be OK? If so, but if I wanted to use a thinner wire, what is best for the pots, 18AWG or 20AWG.
Seems as though the thinner wire would be easier to route in the boxes, and maybe wiring to a Pot. in the headstock.
I got a nice OEM style reverse switch coming. Should be able to use for DC motor reverse.
Might need some help with the wiring when I am ready.
Fellow at the Logan Yahoo group has it.
here is a picture of it.
Although, l just noticed, it says 1/4 HP DC 115/220. I hope the switch is heavy enough for my application.
I am using the 1/2 HP motor from Amazon.
I am using the inhibit function, or turning off my power, or dialing all the way down to 0, before switching directions.
Thanks,
Tony

mrbreezeet1 said:

Yeah, I would like to have it Jim, but it's a little more than I can spend right now. Then I would need a 180 Volt board.
Let me ask, I got some primary wire for hooking up these motors to the board, I got # 16 wire.
That should be heavy enough for the Board to the Motor; Correct?
But It got me to thinking, Is 16AWG OK for the pots, or is it over kill.
I see most pots that come with the board, wired up are using thinner wire, maybe 18 0r 20.
Would 16 be OK? If so, but if I wanted to use a thinner wire, what is best for the pots, 18AWG or 20AWG.
Seems as though the thinner wire would be easier to route in the boxes, and maybe wiring to a Pot. in the headstock.
I got a nice OEM style reverse switch coming. Should be able to use for DC motor reverse.
Might need some help with the wiring when I am ready.
Fellow at the Logan Yahoo group has it.
here is a picture of it.
Although, l just noticed, it says 1/4 HP DC 115/220. I hope the switch is heavy enough for my application.
I am using the 1/2 HP motor from Amazon.
I am using the inhibit function, or turning off my power, or dialing all the way down to 0, before switching directions.
Thanks,
Tony
View attachment 98809 View attachment 98810

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In my opinion I would use wire that I had on hand for the pots. Likey 18 gauge. I don't bother with anything smaller.
i bought a fan speed control to use on my 7x12 lathe. It worked fine for my testing till the transistor poped unexpectedly after the final hardwire. It came with a 250k pot in it that I will replace with a 100k to 150k pot. The 250k will not give me the fine speef control over the full use of the pot rotation. I can only use the highest portion for control of speed. The smaller pot will give me finer adjustment using more dial rotation. Hope this makes sense.
Jack

16GA is probably overkill for the pot but OK, just for ease of wiring I would use something smaller.

14GA sounds about right for 1/2 hp motor wiring but 16GA would probably work OK on that short of a wire length.

thanks Guys.

atlas ten said:

It came with a 250k pot in it that I will replace with a 100k to 150k pot. The 250k will not give me the fine speef control over the full use of the pot rotation. I can only use the highest portion for control of speed. The smaller pot will give me finer adjustment using more dial rotation. Hope this makes sense.
Jack

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Jack, that sounds like it's an audio taper (logarithmic* or "A" taper) pot, where each (e.g.) 10 degrees of rotation gives the same multiplication of the signal - if you imagine a graph of rotation across the bottom, output upwards, it gives a J-shaped curve, a linear pot ("B" taper) will give a diagonal line / - so the audio taper will give next to no output for most of the rotation then jump to nearly full speed, makes it difficult to adjust it over the last few degrees as you've found...
That's how we hear things, in audio work each 3dB increase sounds the same to our ears but is in fact a doubling of power - our ears "compress" the range so we can hear changes in low levels and cope with a right bloody racket with the same instruments (our ears!). The human ear (unless old and deflicted like mine) has a dynamic range of about 140dB - that's a factor of 100,000,000,000,00 to one, from the "pin dropping" to close up to a jet engine spooling up or a 44 magnum at arm's length - impressive, not many things we've invented can manage that without fiddling and adjustment

I wouldn't swap the pot to a lower value, unless it was something thrown in at random by the vendor and not the original, there's a reason they specify the type and value! But so swap to a linear pot if it says "250K A" on the back, you want "250K B"

Just my ha'pennorth,
Dave H. (the other one)

*actually it's technically an "antilog" or exponential function, but the ear's logarithmic so that's what it was labelled long ago.