New Project - Benchmaster MV-1 mill

AR1911 said:
Here's the color I am using - Alpine Green, which is an engine color used on HD diesels. It is pretty close to the original color, though a bit brighter. Kind of an art deco color ;)

IMG_5235.jpg

On the original, the spindle cover was painted off-white. The "B" on the column was plain white originally. It was obviously brushed on. Now, I'm not going to paint the spindle cover off-white or even white, but I'm not sure what else to use that would look right. Suggestions?
Click to expand...


IMHO A nice soft cram color with some dark green pin striping would look great even though you said you did not want to go white.
 
I ordered an ER16 collet chuck, because I have ER16 collets. I'll keep my eye out for an ER32 set as well.

As to color, the top hood was a cream color, so that may be what I end up doing. The green is almost original, so I would be sticking with originality. It would be easy to change if I don't like it.
 
AR1911 you are doing a great job on the restoration, looking good. Bob
 
At this point I sorta wish I had gone with a more muted shade. I do like that silver BM mfslater. But I'm not going to repaint it at this point.
Right now I'm just waiting for the pulley to be re-welded where I broke the lip when i pulled the spindle.

I think I found a combination of oil seals that will work.
However, I did not make spacers to re-position the bearings after removing the OE seals. This puts the spindle higher in the head by about 1/8". I think it will be fine, but I may have to re-do it. I'll see.
I will post the seal numbers I used. They differ from the seals posted here earlier.
 
AR1911 said:
At this point I sorta wish I had gone with a more muted shade. I do like that silver BM mfslater. But I'm not going to repaint it at this point.
Right now I'm just waiting for the pulley to be re-welded where I broke the lip when i pulled the spindle.

I think I found a combination of oil seals that will work.
However, I did not make spacers to re-position the bearings after removing the OE seals. This puts the spindle higher in the head by about 1/8". I think it will be fine, but I may have to re-do it. I'll see.
I will post the seal numbers I used. They differ from the seals posted here earlier.
Click to expand...

Hi AR1911

Do you have the upper and lower bearing specs?
 
Bearing numbers are posted in the Yahoo group and a number of other places:

Timken 09074 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 09194 Race

Timken 15118 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 15250 Race

Standard stuff from your local auto supply store.

The seals are the hard part. Here's what I did, starting at the top:

Upper Inner SKF 10111 This was a felt seal sandwiched between the upper bearing race and the housing. The seal rides on the 1" OD bushing that goes under the threaded collar.
The replacement is a lip seal that presses into the top of the casting.
1" shaft x 1.98 bore x .46 thick
National 471744

Upper inner seal. This is a lip seal that rides on the smallest diameter just above the transition to the larger diameter that fits the pulley. I found no seal with the correct OD, so I used one a little larger and hand-ground the OD until it would fit the rough bore. I used a seal that was given me by another member and I was unable to find a seal number on it, but I suspect it was the SKF 7573. This was the most difficult fit. The below are my notes.
SKF 7573 needs mod (National 471567) 1.575" OD
Cast bore 1.525" 11878 oversize OD (National 471354)
TIMken 710154 1.5 OD

Lower inner seal. Original is a metal-clad felt seal sandwiched between the casting and the bearing race. The bore is rough and the horizontal outer surface is not flat.
Cast bore 2.05" x 1.180 shaft
30x52x7 metric seal would work
Nat 223035 is the cross from the SKF
I used a Timken seal which was a loose fit in the bore. I'll come back and add the number when I get back from the shop.

Lower outer seal. This is the biggest diameter seal surrounding the working end. It was the easiest to fit.
SKF 15160 was sourced on ebay and fits perfectly
National 40067S is the crossover number but is not that common
 
AR1911 said:
Bearing numbers are posted in the Yahoo group and a number of other places:

Timken 09074 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 09194 Race

Timken 15118 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 15250 Race

Standard stuff from your local auto supply store.

The seals are the hard part. Here's what I did, starting at the top:

Upper Inner SKF 10111 This was a felt seal sandwiched between the upper bearing race and the housing. The seal rides on the 1" OD bushing that goes under the threaded collar.
The replacement is a lip seal that presses into the top of the casting.
1" shaft x 1.98 bore x .46 thick
National 471744

Upper inner seal. This is a lip seal that rides on the smallest diameter just above the transition to the larger diameter that fits the pulley. I found no seal with the correct OD, so I used one a little larger and hand-ground the OD until it would fit the rough bore. I used a seal that was given me by another member and I was unable to find a seal number on it, but I suspect it was the SKF 7573. This was the most difficult fit. The below are my notes.
SKF 7573 needs mod (National 471567) 1.575" OD
Cast bore 1.525" 11878 oversize OD (National 471354)
TIMken 710154 1.5 OD

Lower inner seal. Original is a metal-clad felt seal sandwiched between the casting and the bearing race. The bore is rough and the horizontal outer surface is not flat.
Cast bore 2.05" x 1.180 shaft
30x52x7 metric seal would work
Nat 223035 is the cross from the SKF
I used a Timken seal which was a loose fit in the bore. I'll come back and add the number when I get back from the shop.

Lower outer seal. This is the biggest diameter seal surrounding the working end. It was the easiest to fit.
SKF 15160 was sourced on ebay and fits perfectly
National 40067S is the crossover number but is not that common
Click to expand...
AR1911 said:
Bearing numbers are posted in the Yahoo group and a number of other places:

Timken 09074 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 09194 Race

Timken 15118 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 15250 Race

Standard stuff from your local auto supply store.

The seals are the hard part. Here's what I did, starting at the top:

Upper Inner SKF 10111 This was a felt seal sandwiched between the upper bearing race and the housing. The seal rides on the 1" OD bushing that goes under the threaded collar.
The replacement is a lip seal that presses into the top of the casting.
1" shaft x 1.98 bore x .46 thick
National 471744

Upper inner seal. This is a lip seal that rides on the smallest diameter just above the transition to the larger diameter that fits the pulley. I found no seal with the correct OD, so I used one a little larger and hand-ground the OD until it would fit the rough bore. I used a seal that was given me by another member and I was unable to find a seal number on it, but I suspect it was the SKF 7573. This was the most difficult fit. The below are my notes.
SKF 7573 needs mod (National 471567) 1.575" OD
Cast bore 1.525" 11878 oversize OD (National 471354)
TIMken 710154 1.5 OD

Lower inner seal. Original is a metal-clad felt seal sandwiched between the casting and the bearing race. The bore is rough and the horizontal outer surface is not flat.
Cast bore 2.05" x 1.180 shaft
30x52x7 metric seal would work
Nat 223035 is the cross from the SKF
I used a Timken seal which was a loose fit in the bore. I'll come back and add the number when I get back from the shop.

Lower outer seal. This is the biggest diameter seal surrounding the working end. It was the easiest to fit.
SKF 15160 was sourced on ebay and fits perfectly
National 40067S is the crossover number but is not that common
Click to expand...

Hi AR1911

Thanks for the detailed reply. I had seen the sheets which list the bearing parts, but it was all information overload.
Now I need to know how to get those outer ring parts out of the yoke casting ... I guess the seals are not a problem in this respect.

Rgrds

mfslater
 
I assume you are asking about removal of the bearing races. The race ID is just smaller than the seal bore, which gives you something to press against. In this case, the OE felt seals are between the casting and the race, so you are actually pressing against the seal. You make a tool with some 1/2 all-thread. Make disk about 1/2" thick that barely slips in the outer bore, and cut a recess so it won't damage the seal. You end up with a shallow cup with a 1/2 hole in the center. Then you need a short cup for the other side that is bigger than the bore. Add two nuts for the alltread and squeeze it out.
Repeat for the other race, with different size cups. If you have a large collection of "materials" then you can probably cobble something from scrap.
 
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