Show us your South Bend Lathe

Here's my 1947 SB9A! I'll have better pictures in a few weeks.

cuseguy said:

My 1979 Heavy 10 has a few new paint scratches since it's rebuild 8 weeks ago! I just added a bed turret since I do alot of repetitive op work. View attachment 67982

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View attachment 67982

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Hi guy,

I have a 1973 I want to rebuilt. I have the sliding turret also. I would be lucky if it would ever look as wonderful as yours.
Use it in good health man!

Nels

this is my 1941 Defense plant corporation heavy 10 with taper attachment. When I started the clean and paint I did not know much about the machine or lathes in general. When I began cleaning I found the brass DPC tag on the pedestal. The number on that tag was stamped under the tag as well. As I went through the process I found that number was stamped on the bed the apron the tailstock etc. Also when polishing the collets I found that number etched on the ends with a vibrating pen. It seems everything has been together since WWII! I am missing the collet closer/drawbar and a few odds and ends but oh well! Thanks to forums like this I have been able to learn a lot about these machines and how to repair them. Thanks!I would also like to know if anyone knows anything about these lathes with a the defense plant corporation tags. I have researched the DPC and found out it was charted by Congress in 40' to prepare for the war and was disbanded in 1945 after the war. Any info would be appreciated!

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I love blue. No matter what color it is!


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That's the odd thing, I believe blue is the original color. I found it under the tags etc. I know the man who had it and he bought it from a machine resale place in the early sixties. That color is Ford tractor blue and it was very close match to the original. Very unusual for a south bend color.

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You're missing the bed bracket for your taper attachment. It is common to remove it when the taper attachment is not being used, to save wear on the way as it slides up and down the way when the carriage is being moved. Once removed, they get misplaced, which is why a lot of lathes with a taper attachment are missing that bracket.

Actually, the bed bracket is integral to the collet rack in the second picture. The collet rack bolts to the bed bracket.

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The brackets look the same, the same casting, but the bed bracket for the taper attachment has two holes for babbit to be poured in once the taper attachment is aligned. The bed bracket for the collet holder does not. I suppose one could drill the collet holder bracket and accomplish the same thing. The thing is that the taper attachment should be properly aligned, then the bracket put in place on the rod and babbit poured in to set the alignment and keep it in proper alignment. Also, you don't really want the weight of a fully-stocked collet holder to be sliding up and down the way with your taper attachment. Notice the taper attachment bracket does not have the threaded hole where the collet holder threads in.

That's very interesting. I didn't know that the bracket slid on the ways. I thought it was affixed to the bed and pushed/pulled the taper attachment when it was in use. As you can see, my collet bracket has the holes for the Babbitt material along with a square head set screw. I'm not sure if this is original or a modification over its last 74 years. It appears to be correct but who knows. Would anyone happen to have info on proper taper attachment alignment procedures?should the taper be engaged all of the time only set straight for a straight cut? Right now I have the handle removed, but I'm just curious. Did the collet rack piece you showed me have an adjustment underneath for alignment? The one pictured has adjustment underneath.

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We should probably be discussing this on another thread. Yes, that is the proper bed bracket for the taper attachment. I'm not an expert, but I'm guessing somebody drilled/tapped this one for the collet rack, or maybe some came that way from the factory. The taper attachment must be properly aligned to be exactly parallel with the bed in order to function accurately. So, you align it with a dial indicator, then slide the bed bracket onto the rod and the bed way, clamp it firmly on the bed way, then set it in the proper position on the rod with washers and nut. Then you pour molten babbit into one of the holes until it comes out the other hole and let it cool. Once cool, you can remove the bracket and put it back on again and still have the taper attachment in perfect alignment. To use the taper attachment you have to lock the bracket on the bed so that the cross slide will follow the angle set on the taper attachment, but while it is not in use, you loosen the bed bracket so that the whole taper attachment slides on the way as the saddle moves up and down the ways, which is why most folks simply remove it when not in use. Most hobbiests seldom use the taper attachment.

That square-head lock screw you have on yours is to lock a collet closer holder in place, not for adjusting the taper attachment rod.