Another part competed, needed to put in a larger fuel tank in the boat, old one was 200lt new one is now 330Lt, went down to my local scrap metal recycling yard and picked up 2 sheets of 2.4 x 1.2mt aluminium 5083 H116 sheet, didn't know it at the time but one was 4mm and the other 5mm thick, (was after 4mm for both), anyway went to a sheet metal shop to try and fold them but because of the its temper when we tried to fold a test bit, it cracked in half, so new plan, we made a series of 6 part bends to get the curve on the corner. So the tank has two straight 90 degree joints and 2 radiused bends. 2 baffles on the insides, made the 5mm plate on the bottom and one side and also the ends caps. 4mm plate for the baffles. Incidently the reason I used that thicknes of sheeting is that I could only buy new 3mm sheet at 1.5 to 2 times price of the 4 and 5mm sheet from the recycler place,
Machined up a short 50mm Aluminium tube for the inlet, welded it to a square piece of 5mm plate though a hole and then welded it to the inside of the tank end though another hole. A bit of 10mm tube for the outlet at the top, same thing, though a hole in a square plate and then again welded to the inside, a bracket 3/4 of the way down the tube to sop it vibrating and fatiguing to connect the tube to the wall of the end cap.
One inspection hole from 5mm welded to the outside which has a 7mm plate with 8 of 6mm screws to hold it down, a hole for the fuel sender, this was made on a piece of 16mm plate as I needed to raise the height of the sender due to the type I used, being made in certain sizes only. (300mm or 350mm with nothing in between). The type of sender I used is a reed type, ie; a floating round float which goes up and down around a S/S tube, unlike the other type which has the float which pivots on an arm.
The other end has just one air outlet which I machined from a bit of 16mm aluminium round and welded the same as the other connections. The reason for the overhang on the bottom plate is to allow some screws to lock it down to the floor of the boat so it wont move when under way.
Although my TIG welding sucks, I feel reasonably confident that it will be leak proof but I still have to give it a pressure test to see if it leaks, better now than after it has fuel in it.
Machined up a short 50mm Aluminium tube for the inlet, welded it to a square piece of 5mm plate though a hole and then welded it to the inside of the tank end though another hole. A bit of 10mm tube for the outlet at the top, same thing, though a hole in a square plate and then again welded to the inside, a bracket 3/4 of the way down the tube to sop it vibrating and fatiguing to connect the tube to the wall of the end cap.
One inspection hole from 5mm welded to the outside which has a 7mm plate with 8 of 6mm screws to hold it down, a hole for the fuel sender, this was made on a piece of 16mm plate as I needed to raise the height of the sender due to the type I used, being made in certain sizes only. (300mm or 350mm with nothing in between). The type of sender I used is a reed type, ie; a floating round float which goes up and down around a S/S tube, unlike the other type which has the float which pivots on an arm.
The other end has just one air outlet which I machined from a bit of 16mm aluminium round and welded the same as the other connections. The reason for the overhang on the bottom plate is to allow some screws to lock it down to the floor of the boat so it wont move when under way.
Although my TIG welding sucks, I feel reasonably confident that it will be leak proof but I still have to give it a pressure test to see if it leaks, better now than after it has fuel in it.
