Little Machine Shop 3536 Lathe Tailstock

BenjamanQ

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Dec 2, 2013
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Morning all
Does anyone have any experience with the LMS 3536 8 x 16 HiTorque Bench Lathe? I bought one for the lab at work and so far it's been a great little machine, nice to have power cross feed. So far the cuts I've made with it have been very accurate and it's a solid little machine weighing over 200 lbs. The only problem I have found with it is getting a tool shank out of the tailstock quill. I put a chuck with a #2 Morse taper in the quill, when I tried to get it out by cranking the quill back all the way it did not pop out. I emailed LMS and got a quick repsonse from Chris (great service by the way) saying to disassemble the the tailstock and use a pin through the quill to get it out. Don't really want to do that every time I need to change tailstock tooling. I'm thinking about putting a pin in there so when the quill is retracked the tool arbor will hit the pin and pop out. Has anyone every encountered this?

Thanks in advance
Ben
 
I have an older 7x14, and am not familiar with the new versions. But, I have made MT2 tapers for various drill chucks and tools like die and tap holders.
When I have a taper that will not auto eject, I drill and tap the small end for a socket head cap screw to adjust the length. That usually fixes the issue. Did the taper you're having trouble with come with the lathe, or from another source?

Chuck
 
It came with the lathe. I did notice that it does not have the driving (blade?) machined on the end. That would make it shorter and not reach the tailstock screw to knock it out
 
I would machine a washer about 1/8" thick, the size of the small end of the taper and super glue it on to see if it will eject. I would believe the taper is hardened. You can check that with a file. If hardened, it would be difficult to use the tapped hole method.
Trial and error will show what thickness washer needs to be added. If the washer is made from mild steel, it could be silver soldered in place.
I purchased a Drill chuck on a MT2 taper for my lathe from HF and had to cut the end off to use it. I used a dead center that ejected to mark where to cut.

Chuck
 
Here's what I ended up doing. I found an older post from Ruben (Thanks!) where he had a similar problem. I disassembled the tailstock per the instructions from Chris and piulled out the tailstock screw. I measured the distance from the internal face of the quill to the end of the stuck arbor and measured the screw, from the quill end to the large shoulder; sure enough the screw was too short to reach the arbor. Then I chucked up on the screw and faced about .050" off the threaded side of the large shoulder on the screw, to allow it to enter farther into the quill. Oiled everything up and reassembled it. Cranked the hand wheel back and the arbor popped out pretty as you please.
Thanks for everyones help!
 
Great fix, Ben. I'll have to add that to my notes.

Chuck
 
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